Nautilus Panel Idea

[Tim2542]

My thinking was that the additional backflow protector would mitigate the risk?

Yeah its not a good idea, and would not meet plumbing code even in a 4th world country. You are relying on a cheap plastic check valve to protect your domestic supply. I know its tempting

[Tim2542]

Ive been wanting to do this also, where did you get the shorties? I would suggest you add the quick disconnects to yor setup, makes connecting a 2 second op.

[hartcentr]

Like your idea. Where did you purchase leader hoses? Can only find 6' ones locally.

I got mine at Amazon. There are several available, but here is the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I like about this one is that the ends are black anodized aluminum and they use an o-ring seal in the female end instead of a hose washer. The o-ring is a much tighter, leak free seal.

[Paul_Lori_Millie]

Too much friction loss, you'll lose internal pressure in the RV... not a lot of loss, but enough to make the difference between a shower and a SHOWER...

[Tom&Trish]

How about this:
1.added a 90 Deg fitting to the city water and the pressure reducing valve. Then a tygon hose thru a 3/4” hole in the plastic tray.
2. Did the same for the black tank ( no pressure valve).
3. Mounted the water filter under the tray and an elbow with water hose connection.
4. Added a tee to the filter inlet and a ball valve and check valve (makes an anti syphon / backflow preventer) and connected the black tank flush hose. NOTE You can’t connect fresh water to black water without an anti syphon or back flow preventer.
Works great! Only one hose to hook up! Turn on the ball valve to flush out the black tank or add water.

Don’t know how to add pictures on this forum yet. So if your interested contact me. All parts available at Home Depot or Lowes. I can send you a list of parts and pictures.

[PHMadness]

Seems like a whole bunch of folks are bound and determined to have their black tank flush hooked to their fresh water against some pretty sound advice.
This kinda goes with my stance on warning labels. Take them off and things will sort themselves out soon enough.
I'm all about convenience and something being easier, I'm really lazy, but the consequences don't sound so good.
In my past units I have always hade a dedicated potable only hose and an everything else hose, never shall the two meet. I know some folks take it a step further and have a black flush only hose too.
So why the overwhelming desire for this?

[Walaby]

Lots of good discussion, and interesting ideas. But, to me, it's not that big of a deal to disconnect a hose, and connect it up to the BT flush when needed. That way I don't have to worry about being connected or not connected.

I have a separate dedicated BT flush hose that I use when I am at a dump station. Admittedly, I will swap the hose from city connect to BT flush when I am at a FHU site, and Im counting on the backflow preventer to do its job and not contaminate my fresh water hose.

Having to physically make the connection each time I want to use it makes sure Im connected up properly each time.

Mike

[[email protected]]

The biggest thing I see missing out of this thread is, if you are using the dump site at a campground usually that water is non potable or non drinking water. Anytime you were using a non potable water source it is best to use a separate hose then your fresh water hose that you use at the campsite itself.

[cookinwitdiesel]

I currently do have 2 isolated hoses I use for blackflush/non potable vs potable drinking water (literally a white and a black hose so I can't mix them up). The black hose is one of the expandable ones and has a ball valve integrated on the end. For this last trip I just had them both hooked up to a Y at the post, and left the black flush unhooked until it was needed. When needed I screwed in the black hose at the RV, opened the splitter valve for it, then opened the hose valve, to make sure things only are flowing one direction. When done flushing, I close the hose valve, then close the y valve. Then unscrew and drain the black flush inlet from the RV, then open the hose valve and release its pressure. It works and should be sufficiently sanitary, I am just trying to see if something more convenient can be done.

Keep the good discussion going

[DougW9876]

I currently do have 2 isolated hoses I use for blackflush/non potable vs potable drinking water (literally a white and a black hose so I can't mix them up). The black hose is one of the expandable ones and has a ball valve integrated on the end. For this last trip I just had them both hooked up to a Y at the post, and left the black flush unhooked until it was needed. When needed I screwed in the black hose at the RV, opened the splitter valve for it, then opened the hose valve, to make sure things only are flowing one direction. When done flushing, I close the hose valve, then close the y valve. Then unscrew and drain the black flush inlet from the RV, then open the hose valve and release its pressure. It works and should be sufficiently sanitary, I am just trying to see if something more convenient can be done.

Keep the good discussion going

You have what I consider a pretty good system, the difference is that I open the Y valve so the black flush hose is under pressure when I attach it to the black flush port, open the ball valve and flush, close the ball valve and unhook from black flush port, open hose to let it flow for a moment, close hose, turn off Y connector, disconnect hose.

I like having pressure on the black flush hose while connecting and disconnecting, it gives me a better feeling that nothing is going to flow back into the fresh water system. It may be overkill but it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.