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  1. #1
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    Nautilus Panel Idea

    Here is something I do others may be interested in doing. I hook up a couple of 3 foot leader hoses to my Nautilus panel and leave them permanently hooked up to the panel. Eliminates the hassle of hooking them up, and it eliminates leaks in that storage compartment from not having them tight or the leakage that occurs unhooking hoses. I just thread the female end of the fresh water one down through the opening in the bottom when at a camp site with water, and hook up the supply hose and pressure regulator to the leader hose outside of the compartment. When done, I just let them hang outside of the compartment for about 10 minutes to drain any residual water out, and then put them back in and shut the door

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  2. #2
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    Like your idea. Where did you purchase leader hoses? Can only find 6' ones locally.

  3. #3
    Rolling Along cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
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    I was planning to take it a step further for my trailer. Here is what I have in mind. This way, I do not have to screw anything (except at the campsite post), just a quick disconnect to get the trailer attached to the campsite.
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    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
    I was planning to take it a step further for my trailer. Here is what I have in mind. This way, I do not have to screw anything (except at the campsite post), just a quick disconnect to get the trailer attached to the campsite.
    Before tying the black flush and fresh water inputs together, as your illustration appears to show, have a look in this thread for comment by @Cate&Rob about the risks of doing that. Don't just read the linked post #2 , there's more discussion further down the thread.

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post235577

    Rob is a guru of plumbing in our trailers and the gist of his advice in that thread is that black and fresh inputs should not be connected at the same time.
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  5. #5
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    ^^^Yeah thats not a good idea to combine the FW and BF inlets together. Probably a small chance of cross contamination but a seperate connection will guarantee there is no cross contamination.
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  6. #6
    Rolling Along cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
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    My thinking was that the additional backflow protector would mitigate the risk?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
    My thinking was that the additional backflow protector would mitigate the risk?

    In theory and if all components work properly it should mitigate the risk. We all know that mechanical devices can fail and, personally, I would rather not take the risk.
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    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
    My thinking was that the additional backflow protector would mitigate the risk?
    I suggested reading much of the thread I linked above which answers your question.

    The risk is not that black water comes out of the black water flush inlet (to be arrested by your backflow preventer). There's a vacuum break column of FRESH water in there. Your backflow preventer prevents that from doing its job.

    Here are quotes from @Cate&Rob posts in that thread explaining the issue. Note that NON-italicized comments are my own words, not Rob's, and bolded emphasis is also mine.

    Not disconnecting the black tank flush prevents the vacuum break from doing its job since this holds a column of water from the hose to the black tank. Then, [folks who do this] turn off the campground spigot [or hold the column of fresh water in place with a backflow preventer]. Now, their black tank is connected to their potable water intake.

    There should only be one hose from the spigot to the camper. Connect it to either the potable connection or the (drained) black tank flush, but it can never be connected to both. The important part of this is that the black tank vacuum break must be allowed to drain (by removing the hose connection) for it to do its job and completely disconnect the black tank from anything else.
    ...
    The vacuum break is a high mounted valve in the black tank flush line. As long as there is water pressure (during flushing), it remains closed. When the water pressure is released, the vacuum break opens to atmosphere allowing air in so that the water in the flush line drains in two directions. Half of this fresh water continues on into the black tank and half comes back out the pressure line connection point. The flush line is now dry and cannot become a siphon action or water path for bacteria out of the black tank.

    If a hose is left connected to the black tank flush, it is possible that the vacuum break remains closed and there is a water path for bacteria from the black tank back to the T connection to the potable water line. Bacteria can migrate through stagnate water in a connected flush hose.
    Last edited by boyscout; 07-16-2019 at 05:16 PM.
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  9. #9
    Rolling Along cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougW9876 View Post
    In theory and if all components work properly it should mitigate the risk. We all know that mechanical devices can fail and, personally, I would rather not take the risk.
    But isn't that the same risk you already take with the internal check valve in the RV for the black flush line? I am just adding a redundancy and some convenience.

    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    ...
    I actually read that entire thread, you may see I posted in it as well.

    Another take on this design maybe, putting a ball valve in place of the vacuum break and only open/close it when the supply line is pressurized to push things forward. That way nothing should ever be able to flow backwards?
    Last edited by cookinwitdiesel; 07-17-2019 at 07:01 AM.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
    But isn't that the same risk you already take with the internal check valve in the RV for the black flush line? I am just adding a redundancy and some convenience.


    I actually read that entire thread, you may see I posted in it as well.

    Another take on this design maybe, putting a ball valve in place of the vacuum break and only open/close it when the supply line is pressurized to push things forward. That way nothing should ever be able to flow backwards?

    Is there a check valve on the black flush? I get quite a bit of water out of it when I disconnect so there may not be one but, I have never checked to be sure.

    A ball valve and pressurized supply line is how I do it, using a 25 foot hose which is connected to the hydrant and black flush connector at the panel only when needed.

    If you feel good about the way you do things, go for it.
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