What to look for in a WDH for a 2500RL?

[SJMaye]

I have been haggling with dealers for a new 2500RL. So far I have had the deal include a WDH, but I am having second thoughts about doing that. I need a hitch as this would be my first TT, but I would think they would throw in the cheapest hitch possible just to make the sale. Only for me to have to replace it for a better one later.

I KNOW NOTHING about WDH. Can someone tell me what size I should be looking for? What brands would be be good? Especially for a beginner...

[TheGuy]

I have a 2600rb and told the dealership that I wanted the equalizer 1k/10k. It wasn't an issue.

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[SJMaye]

I have a 2600rb and told the dealership that I wanted the equalizer 1k/10k. It wasn't an issue.

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Really? So that brand and model is carried by most of the dealers such that I could have it spec'd in the deal? Interesting.

[TheGuy]

Can't say what other dealers have, but if you tell them what you want they'll probably make it happen to keep the sale. I bought at General RV.

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[TheGuy]

Really? So that brand and model is carried by most of the dealers such that I could have it spec'd in the deal? Interesting.

FWIW, I like the hitch. I rented a camper and it had some cheap wdh that they set up poorly. I hated having to get out and remove the anti-sway bar every time I wanted to back up, too. It nearly put me off the RV concept as a whole.

After some time, some reading, and a lot of YouTube I settled on the equalizer as it seemed the most logical design that didn't need a separate anti-sway device. It is also easy to work with. The worst thing I can say is that it's a bit noisy.

There are others like the propride/Hensley that I'd love to use if someone wants to send me one... ;-). Heck, I'll even make a YouTube video about it. :-D

My guess is the dealer will have the equalizer if that's what you want. If not there are a lot of other options. Like I said, I watched a lot of YouTube on hitches of various types. Do the same. You'll find one you like. Then, just tell the dealer that's the one you want. If you don't want a different one, walk... They'll call you within an hour saying they found one in the back or some silliness like that.

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[SJMaye]

Wow! Those Hensley's are pricey. So, what's the deal with the chains vs no chains thing? I looked at one use trailer and the owner was raving about his E2 hitch not having chains.

[SJMaye]

Is this the one you purchased? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TR8IFO..._t1_B004TR8F5C

[Skiddy]

In addition to traditional trunnion/spring bar there are other alternatives. I use an Andersen 3350 and am very pleased with the results. My dealer knew about the Andersen, but did not carry them. The Andersen s not cheap, but I find the convenience and performance to be worth it.
With the Andersen, the ball turns in a sleeve with respect to the truck, it stays fixed in the trailer coupler. This means no grease is required, cleaner and easier to handle. It is light, well under 60 pounds in total. Adjusts with the socket they provide, although once your set up is known, using your trailer tongue jack you can finger adjust and then use the jack to apply equalization. Simple and fast with little or no effort required.
Basic set up is simple and similar to any WD hitch. Measure the distance from ground to fender, front and back for the truck as reference for how much WD is applied. For the trailer, measure the distance from frame, in front of axles and behind axles when trailer is level - that is measurement is the same. For my 2150RB, that is 22-1/2”, which is also the measurement from ground to top of the trailer coupler. Set the top of the ball on the truck at 24”, 1” to 1-1/2” higher than the top of the trailer coupler. The Andersen ball mount will allow about 6” of adjustment. Fine tuning is possible depending on load.
Once connected, the hitch is quiet and allows tight turning when backing into tight spots. Ratings are 1400/14000.

[TheGuy]

Is this the one you purchased? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TR8IFO..._t1_B004TR8F5C

Yup. That's the one.

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[TheGuy]

In addition to traditional trunnion/spring bar there are other alternatives. I use an Andersen 3350 and am very pleased with the results. My dealer knew about the Andersen, but did not carry them. The Andersen s not cheap, but I find the convenience and performance to be worth it.
With the Andersen, the ball turns in a sleeve with respect to the truck, it stays fixed in the trailer coupler. This means no grease is required, cleaner and easier to handle. It is light, well under 60 pounds in total. Adjusts with the socket they provide, although once your set up is known, using your trailer tongue jack you can finger adjust and then use the jack to apply equalization. Simple and fast with little or no effort required.
Basic set up is simple and similar to any WD hitch. Measure the distance from ground to fender, front and back for the truck as reference for how much WD is applied. For the trailer, measure the distance from frame, in front of axles and behind axles when trailer is level - that is measurement is the same. For my 2150RB, that is 22-1/2”, which is also the measurement from ground to top of the trailer coupler. Set the top of the ball on the truck at 24”, 1” to 1-1/2” higher than the top of the trailer coupler. The Andersen ball mount will allow about 6” of adjustment. Fine tuning is possible depending on load.
Once connected, the hitch is quiet and allows tight turning when backing into tight spots. Ratings are 1400/14000.

I seriously considered that one. I really liked the design. What ultimately led me away from it was I couldn't find a lot of reviews. LJMJ on YT tried it for a while but ended up getting an equalizer.

Honestly, I wish I could go test drive all the different types of WDHs. I think it would be interesting to see the differences in their performance. Alas, money and time are things.

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