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  1. #11
    Long Hauler
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    I've got a 8 1/2 cubic foot Atwood fridge with 1 week's use if anyone needs a fridge.

    I pulled my fridge out and rebuilt all the Grand Design baffles to where plywood goes from the top of the coils straight to the top vent on my slide. And it covers the complete cabinet. I insulated the rest of the cabinet to keep hot air out of my cabinetry--and for the fan to push it out the top vent.

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper ncitro's Avatar
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    Jul 2017
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    Northern Illinois
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    The baffle is required to help cooling. It forces air to go to the top of the coils. Look in the installation manual for your refrigerator.
    At the national rally several people had Dometic out to work on the fridges. The Dometic tech removed the baffles, they are required in some installations, but not supposedly not the RM1350 four door fridge. I removed mine and replaced it with a residential, so I cannot confirm the fix personally.
    2018 Reflection 28BH
    2019 F350 Platinum 6.7L LB 4x4

  3. #13
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Jun 2014
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    South Dakota
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncitro View Post
    At the national rally several people had Dometic out to work on the fridges. The Dometic tech removed the baffles, they are required in some installations, but not supposedly not the RM1350 four door fridge. I removed mine and replaced it with a residential, so I cannot confirm the fix personally.
    Neil - they removed the baffle on Mike and Andi's 337 and shared the same feedback to them. Believe Mike also learned the same at the Dometic session. Will be good to read Andi's feedback on this and other items done by Dometic.

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  4. #14
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    I was also at the Dometic tech seminar at the National Rally and heard about the Dometic techs removing the baffle plate from the upper opening to "improve" cooling. This is counter to my understanding of the intent of the baffle plate which is to direct the airflow through the cooling fins. The airflow coming up the back of the fridge will take the path of least resistance and with the baffle plate removed, will exit through the top opening without passing through the heat exchange fins on the condenser.

    This is also counter to the installation instructions for my Dometic DM2862 (8 cu ft). I cannot find these instructions online, so have attached a picture of the installation instructions for side opening (slide) installation showing a requirement for a baffle plate to within 1/2" of the condenser fins.

    It will be interesting to hear from anyone who had the baffle plate removed at the Rally, to learn whether this is an improvement.

    The tech seminar also covered the importance of insulating any space above the fridge. This does two things. It insulates the fridge from sun load and it prevents warm air from gathering in this space.

    In my installation, I have filled the space above the fridge with rigid foam sheets and installed aluminum baffles above and below the heat exchanger fins to direct all air flow through the fins and out the opening. This seems to work well with the OE single fan which is controlled by a thermal switch. This fan is not particularly quiet, but gets the job done when needed.

    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_4687.jpg   IMG_2789.jpg  
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  5. #15
    Fireside Member
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    My 28BH has the 4 door fridge with 4 fans and the plate forcing the air through the fins. Just wrapped up 4 days of camping at the lake with temps in the 101-104. I tried Electric and Propane and both works the same. Temps never got above 38. At night it dropped to 33. Aside from the fan noise, I cant complain. I did make sure to have all our drinks in the out side fridge. to limit the in and out.

    I also left a frozen milk jug full of water in the fridge from when I turned the fridge on. It was still 3/4's frozen when we unpacked today.

    I made sure to start the fridge at 2-4 PM a couple days prior so defrost happened at the cool of night vs mid day etc and nothing was placed in the fridge that wasn't pre chilled.

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    Ours continues be run high. Can’t get below 42. I have done everything possible after hours of reading to get it to work. I even ran the last couple nights with the outside cover off on both propane and electric and no change. Really disappointed I can’t store food in my fridge.
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

  7. #17
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justa5th View Post
    Ours continues be run high. Can’t get below 42. I have done everything possible after hours of reading to get it to work. I even ran the last couple nights with the outside cover off on both propane and electric and no change. Really disappointed I can’t store food in my fridge.

    I agree, something is not right. Sounds like you need a replacement unit.

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by akcooper9 View Post
    I agree, something is not right. Sounds like you need a replacement unit.
    I agree. Dealer disagrees...said I’m expecting to much from an rv fridge lol
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

  9. #19
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    I dont get it...they get paid to replace it under warranty. Why are they fussing?

  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by akcooper9 View Post
    I dont get it...they get paid to replace it under warranty. Why are they fussing?

    I reported it to them after our first trip in May. Fridge wasn’t real bad but I could tell it wasn’t gonna perform. They gave me the ole doesn’t cool good on propane etc. I figured with a couple mods I would be good but not so much I guess.
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

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