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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper
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    This should be the first mod on any camper. It is hugely popular on pop-ups since they have the side vents which don't promote very good air flow. I then got a TT with top vent and it was fine as long as temperatures were below 85. What I did was put 3 x 120MM computer fans on the top of the vent opening to draw air from down low.

    It is on a switch and speed control. On those hot days, I flip the switch and run at full blast. This weekend it was 98 degrees out and no shade. It kept the fridge @ 30 degrees. I just replaced 2 of the cheaper fans this year. $26 from best buy and I was back in action. I put it on a speed control for when we are without power but I want a little air flow without maximum draw.


  2. #12
    Big Traveler Wicked ace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Breeze View Post
    Hi All,
    I too have had problems with fluctuations in temps.
    So far , I've sealed the baffle above frig with foam panel insulation and sealed all edges with aluminum tape so the "chimney" funnels hot air up and out.

    But... I've seen here where some have added a turbo fan in the lower area to PUSH cool air up across the fins and OUT !!
    I found such a fan on Amazon that pushes 24 cf of air a minute at only 54 decibels.

    I'm terrible at understanding electrical connections, buy have included some pics of what I need an answer to !!
    Pic 1 is the 12 VDC fan.
    In Pic 2, I've circled what I believe to be the temp switch to turn on single fan in pic 4
    GD really did a good job of providing a steel panel baffle covering the coils and I'd rather not cut it for access if unnecessary.

    I would like to do one of two things.

    Simply hard wire the fan to the circled wires in pic 3 ( which I believe run to the circled temp sensor on fins) but the fan would run continuously and I'm not sure that can be done???.
    and it would be drawing .95 amps all the time ( unless I wire in a a switch ??)

    OR

    Can I snake up a red hot wire to the other side of the sensor in pic 2 from the fan, ( which should lead to the GD supplied fan to start after a temp is reached), and tie the black ground of my fan from the bottom, to one of those ground wires circled in pic 3 ??

    Like I said I know very little about these 12 VDC systems and would appreciate guidance doing this correctly.
    I'm sure PUSHING that much air UPWARDS across the fins will be far more effective that DRAWING air upwards

    Attachment 21462Attachment 21463Attachment 21464Attachment 21465
    Could you post a link to the page on Amazon where you found your fan please. I think that is a better solution than that noisy muffin fan.
    2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
    2019 Grand Design Reflection 150 series 260RD.... SOLD!!!!.

  3. #13
    Fireside Member New Tamper's Avatar
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    I found a guy on YouTube last year that had done a refrigerator made d of add 2 12 inch fans to the upper slide vent. I bought them on amazon and did the mod. They are very quiet and even have blu led lights that let you know when they are on. GD blocks off over half of the upper vent with a piece of wall board to direct the air over the coils. I pulled the board out and installed the 2-12 inch fans. If you look on YouTube for a guy doing a refrigerator mod on a truck camper it is very detailed. Seems to have really helped our cooling.

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper Da Breeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wicked ace View Post
    Could you post a link to the page on Amazon where you found your fan please. I think that is a better solution than that noisy muffin fan.
    Hey Ace, Here ya go !!

    https://www.amazon.com/UTUO-Brushles...SF8YNH5S3SKGBC

    This is a rather large fan but I intend to mount it to the top frame of the lower vent and wire it directly to 12 output so it runs continuously.
    Thanks to Gene and Kim above... I know how to do so !!!!

    42 cfm is some serious movement of air and I've already sealed off the frig baffle completely, (to incorporate the frig top as well), so there is nowhere for hot air to go but OUT !!
    My purpose is to PUSH air UPWARDS over the coils to remove as much heat as possible, so I've chosen this turbo design for directional functionality.

    As stated, 61 dB-A wont be as quiet as a computer fan but its location at the rear end of my coach (307 MKS) that's NOT on a slide, hopefully shouldn't affect the interior quiet much.

    Hope this helps !!!

    Michael
    Previously known as mikgala

    F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks

    2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper
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    Most dealers don't tell their customers that rv refrigerators will go into defrost mode every 48 hours. When this happens the refrigerator will not run for 2 hours. It's important to reset the refrigerator at night so in 48 hours the fridge will go into defrost mode at night. The manufacturers don't give the option to manually pick when to go into defrost mode. I've ordered a fan for the inside of my refrigerator that mounts to the fins. This will circuit the air inside. It's made especially for the 4 door dometic. If you want the link let me know.

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Tamper View Post
    I found a guy on YouTube last year that had done a refrigerator made d of add 2 12 inch fans to the upper slide vent. I bought them on amazon and did the mod. They are very quiet and even have blu led lights that let you know when they are on. GD blocks off over half of the upper vent with a piece of wall board to direct the air over the coils. I pulled the board out and installed the 2-12 inch fans. If you look on YouTube for a guy doing a refrigerator mod on a truck camper it is very detailed. Seems to have really helped our cooling.
    Mine has the same piece of wood. How did you remove it? Mine is in there pretty tight.

  7. #17
    Fireside Member New Tamper's Avatar
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    I’ll not lie it was a pain getting that wood panel out, but it will come out. The fans I bought off Amazon are EN55642, and I bought 2. They tyrap directly to your vent. I put a little spacer on the bottom so it would blow down. The guy on YouTube is Charles Coushaine and it is under How to add Refrigerator Venting to an RV.

  8. #18
    Site Sponsor
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    The 1st time fridge goes into defrost mode after power cut is 60 hours......then every 48 FYI

    So 2 pm Saturday cut powered then then 2 am Tuesday then 2 am Thursday etc...
    Jim and Belinda H. Pa.

    2018 337RLS- 2nd ac, dual pane windows, table and chairs, Kodiak disc brakes 12-28-17 (Thanks Ed!)
    720w solar, 100/50 Victron scc


  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jims94vmx View Post
    The 1st time fridge goes into defrost mode after power cut is 60 hours......then every 48 FYI

    So 2 pm Saturday cut powered then then 2 am Tuesday then 2 am Thursday etc...
    So you only need to cut the power once? As long as you keep the refrigerator on? Cut power at 10pm on Friday and every other day it will defrost at 10pm. Correct?

  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Tamper View Post
    I’ll not lie it was a pain getting that wood panel out, but it will come out. The fans I bought off Amazon are EN55642, and I bought 2. They tyrap directly to your vent. I put a little spacer on the bottom so it would blow down. The guy on YouTube is Charles Coushaine and it is under How to add Refrigerator Venting to an RV.
    Can you remove it from the outside? And did you have to cut it out. I was hoping I could lift it out with damaging it.

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