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07-16-2019, 09:20 PM #1
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Domestic refrigerator problem in hot weather
We have a 2018 Reflection 303RLS with a 2 door norcold refrigerator. Last summer the refrigerator would not stay cold during the hot 90+ temperatures but at night it would cool back done to near normal. The dealer checked it out on several hot days and could not duplicate the problem. Once we got past the hot summer months, the refrigerator has operated at normal temperatures. Now here we are again a year later camping in hot 90+ temperatures and the same thing has happened. The refrigerator temperatures were normal and then then go up to the mid 50’s by mid day. The freezer is still below freezing but not around 3 degrees as it should be. Any thoughts on what the problem is and how to fix it? We plug in the refrigerator a day before we leave to get it good and cold and load it with cold food when we get to the campground. I find we have to take an ice chest with us because we can’t count on the refrigerator.
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07-16-2019, 10:01 PM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2017
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- White Bear Lake, MN
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Evaporative refrigerators depend on having a good flow of cooling air over their "radiators" to carry away the heat they produce. The hotter the air temperature, as you have found, the less able they are to dump their heat. On the kitchen slide, on the outside, are a lower and an upper vent, that duct airflow in at the bottom, up through the cooling coils of the fridge, and then allows the now hotter air to come out the top. Make sure neither vent has any obstructions that would impede air - cottonwood fuzz, after market insect screens, etc. My Imagine has a small 12v "computer fan" in the top ducting area. If yours has one, make sure it is working. Review how yours is installed, there are cases where with judicious use of thin materials and duct tape to channel the air flow one can dramatically improve the ability of the fan to move air. I've seen some posts where people have installed more or bigger fans. Do whatever you can to keep that side of the trailer cool - park in the shade, etc.
2017 Imagine 2670MK
2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
(Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)
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07-16-2019, 10:19 PM #3
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- Feb 2017
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- White Bear Lake, MN
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Here's a link to solutions others have found: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...g-Modification
2017 Imagine 2670MK
2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
(Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)
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07-17-2019, 03:59 AM #4
- Join Date
- May 2014
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- NW AL/NE GA Mountains
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Grand Design has put some baffles on top of the refrigerator (after the fan) to channel hot air out the top vent of the slide. It's not the most effective design
I slipped my refrigerator out into the kitchen after unhooking the electrics and gas line--5 minute job. I then redesigned the baffle to fit tighter and not allow all the hot air to enter the cabinetry. I'm able to keep ice cream in the freezer all year.
Another option would be to buy a second RV exhaust fan w/thermistor to up the flow of hot air out the vent.
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07-17-2019, 09:02 AM #5
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- Mar 2018
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- Dallas,Texas
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Thank you for all the responses and the link. After going to bed last night with the refrigerator showing 57 degrees, I woke up to it showing 35. I know it will go back up to unacceptable temps later today though. I’m even parked under a lot of shade.
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07-19-2019, 10:26 AM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
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- Boynton Beach, Florida
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Hi All,
I too have had problems with fluctuations in temps.
So far , I've sealed the baffle above frig with foam panel insulation and sealed all edges with aluminum tape so the "chimney" funnels hot air up and out.
But... I've seen here where some have added a turbo fan in the lower area to PUSH cool air up across the fins and OUT !!
I found such a fan on Amazon that pushes 24 cf of air a minute at only 54 decibels.
I'm terrible at understanding electrical connections, buy have included some pics of what I need an answer to !!
Pic 1 is the 12 VDC fan.
In Pic 2, I've circled what I believe to be the temp switch to turn on single fan in pic 4
GD really did a good job of providing a steel panel baffle covering the coils and I'd rather not cut it for access if unnecessary.
I would like to do one of two things.
Simply hard wire the fan to the circled wires in pic 3 ( which I believe run to the circled temp sensor on fins) but the fan would run continuously and I'm not sure that can be done???.
and it would be drawing .95 amps all the time ( unless I wire in a a switch ??)
OR
Can I snake up a red hot wire to the other side of the sensor in pic 2 from the fan, ( which should lead to the GD supplied fan to start after a temp is reached), and tie the black ground of my fan from the bottom, to one of those ground wires circled in pic 3 ??
Like I said I know very little about these 12 VDC systems and would appreciate guidance doing this correctly.
I'm sure PUSHING that much air UPWARDS across the fins will be far more effective that DRAWING air upwards
Previously known as mikgala
F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks
2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin
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07-20-2019, 08:01 AM #7
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- Mar 2017
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- Pearland, TX
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Da Breeze,
Looks like you've figured it out OK.
Adding the fan to the temperature switch or down below will add .95A load to the circuit board 5A DC fuse.
Yes getting onto the side of the temperature switch to the fan would then cycle your fan on/off at same time.
Connected down below on the constant 12V, the fan would run all the time, not much different than being cycled on/off.
- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank
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07-22-2019, 10:10 AM #8
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- Apr 2016
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- Boynton Beach, Florida
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Hi GBkims,
I know this seems like a ridiculous question, But do I wire the fan's red & Blk wires to the circled wires coming out of control box in pic ??
Don't wanna make a mistake with the ground.
I want to see if it makes a difference before I wire it to the thermistor.
Thanks
,
MichaelPreviously known as mikgala
F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks
2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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07-22-2019, 10:27 AM #9
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- Mar 2017
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- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank
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07-22-2019, 10:55 AM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
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- Boynton Beach, Florida
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THANK YOU GENE !!!!
i kinda knew that BUT since I'm "electrically challenged", I just like to be sure, I mean POSITIVE !!!
If this cools it down noticeably, I'll re-wire the thermistor BUT after reading the temp range between when it kicks on and off,
(and considering I live in the tropics here in south Florida), I expect it will run continuously anyway !!!
Thanks again,
MichaelPreviously known as mikgala
F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks
2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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