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  1. #21
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by backtrack2015 View Post
    ...except about it collapsing in a collision.
    I doubt that would happen.If people would do a little research on various fifth wheel hitches they would see that the Andersen hitch is by far the safest one out there.

  2. #22
    Rolling Along backtrack2015's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Booneyrat View Post
    I doubt that would happen.If people would do a little research on various fifth wheel hitches they would see that the Andersen hitch is by far the safest one out there.
    If you’re counting herniated discs, then maybe. Otherwise, no.
    2017 F-350 CCSB 6.7L
    2021 Micro Minnie 2100BH
    previously - Reflection 28BH, Intech Pursue

  3. #23
    Seasoned Camper FatTire's Avatar
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    I have the B&W companion hitch, but I do things a little differently when unhooking. When I'm ready to unhook, I chock all 4 wheels, disconnect the brake safety cable and unplug the running lights. I then remove the pin, open the lever and insert the pin in the other hole to keep it n the open position. I then retract the landing gear. I sometimes have to bump it a bit it it didn't go high enough. I once did the same thing as the OP and had the same issue - the king pin gets bound if the jaws are still locked closed.
    2018 Reflection 303 RLS
    2018 Ram BigHorn 3500 CTD

  4. #24
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken2017 View Post
    I once had the same hitch and the same problem unhooking. I noticed when I backed uphill onto a site, it would usually disconnect easily. But when I backed downhill it could be impossible to disconnect. Even on a level site it might be difficult to unhook. If the weight of the pin is pulling on the jaws, they would not open when I operated the release handle.

    This seemed to help. I position the trailer on the site, place chocks behind the rear trailer tires then pushed back slightly against the rear chocks, set the tow vehicle emergency brake, placed front chocks on the trailer tires, extend the jacks to lift the trailer, then pull the release and the jaws should open. Lift enough to see a tiny gap between the pin box surface and the hitch. Lifting too high causes problems. Normally you can use the Ground Control 3.0 'drop the front jacks' feature and it will lift the front end to the correct height for unhooking. I have seen cases where it would lift it too high. If I don't like the height selected by GC 3.0, I adjust it manually before operating the release handle and pulling the truck away.

    I've had similar problems with my Demco. I still unhook from the Demco just as I did with the Companion. In fact I did it today.

    I hope this helps.

    Ken
    2017 Reflection 27RL

    So I'm a little confused here. Are you saying you raised the pin box off the hitch, locked the hitch handle in the opened position, put your truck in Drive, pulled forward and the trailer followed?? Or did you move the handle and expect the hitch jaws to open? The reason I ask is that the handle holds the jaws closed. The handle doesn't open the jaws. It just allows the jaws to open when you pull forward away from the hitch. It's common to have to latch the handle open without the jaws moving but the king pin with come out of the jaws with handle in the open position when you pull the truck forward.
    Jim & Georgianne
    N. California
    2016 Reflection 29RS
    2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty PSD
    B&W Companion hitch
    Rubber turtle with no name

  5. #25
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by J&G garage View Post
    So I'm a little confused here. Are you saying you raised the pin box off the hitch, locked the hitch handle in the opened position, put your truck in Drive, pulled forward and the trailer followed?? Or did you move the handle and expect the hitch jaws to open? The reason I ask is that the handle holds the jaws closed. The handle doesn't open the jaws. It just allows the jaws to open when you pull forward away from the hitch. It's common to have to latch the handle open without the jaws moving but the king pin with come out of the jaws with handle in the open position when you pull the truck forward.
    It's been 4 years since I used the Companion. When I locked the hitch handle open after removing the pressure from the jaws by backing slightly against the chocks, the 'hanging up' problem was resolved. The truck would pull away without hanging in the hitch. It is possible the jaws pulled open as I pulled the truck forward. I am relying on memory. Backing against the chocks and relieving that pressure from the pin definitely allowed me to pull the truck away without it hanging up in the hitch plate.

    Thanks,
    Ken

  6. #26
    Seasoned Camper
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    Thanks to some fellow 5rs, when I pulled into my site, they knew I was a newbie. The first thing was is it level ?, yup, chock the wheels, open the jaws, raise the pin up enough to take the load off the tow vehicle, DICONNECT the BRAKE/LIGHT PLUG and EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE, now pull forward. When I unhooked first time at home, I did everything but raise the load off my truck, good thing the tail gate was open, what noise and lecture from the other half. By the way the Emergency Brake Cable when pulled/actuated will keep the RV brakes on until the cable pin is inserted back in the switch, it is attached directly to the RV battery.

  7. #27
    Long Hauler DaveMatthewsBand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smooth Sailing View Post
    Thanks to some fellow 5rs, when I pulled into my site, they knew I was a newbie. The first thing was is it level ?, yup, chock the wheels, open the jaws, raise the pin up enough to take the load off the tow vehicle, DICONNECT the BRAKE/LIGHT PLUG and EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE, now pull forward. When I unhooked first time at home, I did everything but raise the load off my truck, good thing the tail gate was open, what noise and lecture from the other half. By the way the Emergency Brake Cable when pulled/actuated will keep the RV brakes on until the cable pin is inserted back in the switch, it is attached directly to the RV battery.
    My process is slightly different than yours.
    In order... I level the trailer side to side, chock, drop the tailgate, disconnect trailer brakes, disconnect the safety cable, drop the front gear, raise the pin off the B&W, and remove the Master lock which locks the jaws closed. Opening the jaws is the last step before I pull forward.

    On a side note, I’ve heard you should never pull the emergency cable because it will run your house battery down in no time flat.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Resistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.


  8. #28
    Big Traveler
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    In your case the brakes will drain your battery bank in 33 hours.
    Jim & Georgianne
    N. California
    2016 Reflection 29RS
    2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty PSD
    B&W Companion hitch
    Rubber turtle with no name

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