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07-28-2019, 06:28 AM #21
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07-28-2019, 07:11 AM #22
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07-29-2019, 08:25 AM #23
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- Nov 2017
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- Florida
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I have the B&W companion hitch, but I do things a little differently when unhooking. When I'm ready to unhook, I chock all 4 wheels, disconnect the brake safety cable and unplug the running lights. I then remove the pin, open the lever and insert the pin in the other hole to keep it n the open position. I then retract the landing gear. I sometimes have to bump it a bit it it didn't go high enough. I once did the same thing as the OP and had the same issue - the king pin gets bound if the jaws are still locked closed.
2018 Reflection 303 RLS
2018 Ram BigHorn 3500 CTD
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07-29-2019, 09:02 AM #24
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
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- N. California
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So I'm a little confused here. Are you saying you raised the pin box off the hitch, locked the hitch handle in the opened position, put your truck in Drive, pulled forward and the trailer followed?? Or did you move the handle and expect the hitch jaws to open? The reason I ask is that the handle holds the jaws closed. The handle doesn't open the jaws. It just allows the jaws to open when you pull forward away from the hitch. It's common to have to latch the handle open without the jaws moving but the king pin with come out of the jaws with handle in the open position when you pull the truck forward.Jim & Georgianne
N. California
2016 Reflection 29RS
2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty PSD
B&W Companion hitch
Rubber turtle with no name
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07-29-2019, 09:13 AM #25
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- Mar 2018
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- McDonough, GA
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It's been 4 years since I used the Companion. When I locked the hitch handle open after removing the pressure from the jaws by backing slightly against the chocks, the 'hanging up' problem was resolved. The truck would pull away without hanging in the hitch. It is possible the jaws pulled open as I pulled the truck forward. I am relying on memory. Backing against the chocks and relieving that pressure from the pin definitely allowed me to pull the truck away without it hanging up in the hitch plate.
Thanks,
Ken
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07-29-2019, 10:45 AM #26
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- Jul 2016
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- Lower NY
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Thanks to some fellow 5rs, when I pulled into my site, they knew I was a newbie. The first thing was is it level ?, yup, chock the wheels, open the jaws, raise the pin up enough to take the load off the tow vehicle, DICONNECT the BRAKE/LIGHT PLUG and EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE, now pull forward. When I unhooked first time at home, I did everything but raise the load off my truck, good thing the tail gate was open, what noise and lecture from the other half. By the way the Emergency Brake Cable when pulled/actuated will keep the RV brakes on until the cable pin is inserted back in the switch, it is attached directly to the RV battery.
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07-29-2019, 12:20 PM #27
My process is slightly different than yours.
In order... I level the trailer side to side, chock, drop the tailgate, disconnect trailer brakes, disconnect the safety cable, drop the front gear, raise the pin off the B&W, and remove the Master lock which locks the jaws closed. Opening the jaws is the last step before I pull forward.
On a side note, I’ve heard you should never pull the emergency cable because it will run your house battery down in no time flat.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkResistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.
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07-30-2019, 10:04 AM #28
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
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- N. California
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In your case the brakes will drain your battery bank in 33 hours.
Jim & Georgianne
N. California
2016 Reflection 29RS
2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty PSD
B&W Companion hitch
Rubber turtle with no name
Re-pack bearings necessary?
Yesterday, 09:29 PM in Axles, Brakes, and Suspension