Explain shore power please.

[SJMaye]

Wow. Thank you for the info, Gene. More than I ever expected.

[Tim2542]

Assuming your RV cord would reach, it could be plugged fight into your 50 amp dryer receptacle. There is nothing special as to the wiring of a 30 or 50 amp plug.

[donandann]

We also just plug in to 20A service, but it is usually to cool down the fridge (overnight on electricity usually does the trick) and make sure the battery is topped off before starting a trip. We have a Champion 3100 generator that I try to run for thirty minutes monthly. Sometimes I will drag it over to the trailer and exercise the A/C during the run.

[ken2017]

An RV 50A cord plugs into a standard NEMA N14-50R (Non-Locking, 4 Pin 240VAC (high-line) single phase, 50 Amp, R=receptacle). There are plenty of web pages that will show the standard wiring for each NEMA receptacle type. If you buy a NEMA N14-50R, the wiring diagram will be in the box. An electrician should know how to build this circuit simply by telling them you need a NEMA N14-50R.

I have a N14-50R in my warehouse fed by a 2-pole 50A breaker through 6AWG cable. I use that receptacle for my welder and when needed for my RV. As with any electrical circuit, if wired incorrectly equipment may be damaged or it may result in an unsafe condition. I've wired hundreds of receptacles but I still check and recheck my work. My GD Reflection is plugged into this N14-50R now.

The AC loads inside the RV run on low-line (120VAC) power. But the breaker panel in the trailer can be fed with 240VAC (L1 120VAC, L2 120VAC): one 120VAC/50A leg on one side of panel (L1) and the other 120VAC/50A leg (L2) on the other side. They divide the single-pole 120V breakers between each side of the panel so as to distribute these 120V loads more or less equally between L1 and L2.

Building a circuit for a stove, dryer, or welder is similar to building a new circuit and placing a N14-50R. Running a circuit for a NEMA TT-30R is perhaps a little easier, just 3 wires to a receptacle from a single pole 30A breaker. If you decided a 120VAC/30A (TT-30A) is adequate when parked at the house, then you would use your RV30A-50A adapter just as you would if you arrived at a campground that only had sites with 30A available. You would of course be limited as to the appliances you could operate simultaneously.

Ken

[KheSahn068]

My advice to u would be to contact an electrician

I had an electrician come to my house and he ran a wire for 30amp from the house electrical box to the 30amp box with switch that I purchased on-line. Now when I bring the trailer from storage to home to pack for an outing, I can plug the trailer in using a 30amp cord and putting a 30amp to 50amp adapter when plugging into the trailer. The current temp where I am right now is 103 degrees and I am running only one of the A/C's (Need 50amp power to run both safely) plus I have my 2-door frig on as well. BE SAFE and have an electrician come to your house

[JKellerJr]

I had an electrician come to my house and he ran a wire for 30amp from the house electrical box to the 30amp box with switch that I purchased on-line. Now when I bring the trailer from storage to home to pack for an outing, I can plug the trailer in using a 30amp cord and putting a 30amp to 50amp adapter when plugging into the trailer. The current temp where I am right now is 103 degrees and I am running only one of the A/C's (Need 50amp power to run both safely) plus I have my 2-door frig on as well. BE SAFE and have an electrician come to your house

I installed micro-air’s on both air conditioners and have been able to run both air’s with no issues on 30 amps. I make sure most everything else is off though, the residential fridge stays on. I originally did it for when i was running the air’s of portable generators

[orbiker]

Speaking of getting the frig up to temp. I have heard differing things about how long the frig takes to get up to temp. I have heard days and I have heard hours. Can you clarify?

To help cool the fridge, I put a frozen gallon of water in the freezer and the refrigerator. Gas seems to cool quicker then electric for most rigs. We would turn it on 12 to 24 hours before we are going to load it. KEN

[SGT ROC]

While I am not an electrician, I have done a lot of wiring over the years. I installed a 30 amp outlet on the side of my garage this year. The receptacle that I bought is "[https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7313-...C165&sr=8-7]RV from Amazon. It wires up no differently than a regular 110 outlet, except using 10-2 wire. Unless you plan on living in the trailer at home you shouldn't normally need more than 30 amp. Even with two AC units you can test one at a time to make sure everything works. All mine is used for is keeping the fridge going and the battery charged. Now today I was installing a wall mount for a TV and did run the AC. Everything works just fine.

[cygnussailor]

It depends on what you are trying to accomplish! If you are simply trying to keep the battery charged and the monitors working, then use adapters to adapt a standard 115V household outlet to the 50 amp input to the camper. If you want the camper to be fully functional as though it were plugged in at a campground it gets more complicated. I have two RV outlets, one on the outside wall of my garage and one about 100' away by my RV shelter. You need 240 volts across two of the conductors, a neutral, and a ground to properly wire an RV outlet. All but the ground is in a 240V appliance outlet. The ground can be obtained by driving in a ground rod and running a wire from it to the appropriate pin on the RV plug. Use a voltmeter to confirm your wiring. You should have 240 across the two contacts that are horizontal from each other, 120 from either of those to the top contact (called a half-round), and 120 from either of those to the bottom contact (ground).

[cygnussailor]

Bob, I assume that your RV is 50 amp. You didn't leave the ground conductor into the RV open did you? I'm not concerned that the source is only 30 amps but you need that ground!!! See my other response to this thread.

Gary