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11-26-2019, 07:10 PM #11
This is just wrong. put bottle jack so it lifts right under the spring perch, then just place a jack stand of correct capacity under the axle, as close to the wheel end as possible. Slowly lower the bottle jack to leave weight on the stand. Axle will not bend.....some wife's tale that is! Axles get bent by overloading, and turning tightly. That is what bends axles, not by jacking up the RV! Unless the RV is overloaded from the start, then who knows...Flame away.....
Last edited by phonemannn; 11-26-2019 at 07:27 PM.
2017 F350 Lariat, Dual rear wheels
2017 GD 311BHS
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12-31-2019, 10:33 AM #12
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Jacking at the spring perch or in between spring perch and the hub is no different than driving through a campground and having one tire go over a 3" high bump in the road from a root sticking up. Every time you drive into some driveways getting fuel you have to drive over entrance bumps.
IMO jacking at the spring perch is much less stressful that using those trailer aide things where you back one tire up on it to work on the suspended tire. You now have all the stress for the whole side of the trailer being held up by one axle.
A trailer that weighs 14,000 lbs and has two 7000 lb axles then has 7000 lbs being supported by 3500lbs of axle. When using a jack at the spring perch you're only lifting one tire at a time and the other tire is still supporting it's required weight.Last edited by goducks14; 12-31-2019 at 10:35 AM.
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02-06-2020, 12:44 PM #13
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Sorry folks,
not meaning to high jack the thread... but what are the "cross-members" or cross-member supports you are referring to?
Is this something added later?
Thanks very much
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02-06-2020, 01:03 PM #14
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02-06-2020, 09:10 PM #15
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Just a note about jacking the axels up or supporting the rig while changing the suspension...... When you install wet bolts and/or a MorRyde suspension (either CRE3000 or SRE4000 or something else) there is a really, really good chance you are going to have to raise one or more axels when it comes time to line up the springs to the suspension and/or wet bolts.
So I am still stuck on the idea of raising the rig as high as possible or until the tires are off the ground with the hydraulic jacks, then supporting the frame at the front and back with LARGE jack stands, wood blocks, etc. and then go about changing the suspension components. But that's just me.Larry KE4DMG
2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
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02-06-2020, 09:16 PM #16
That's what I did ,raised the Momentum with the hydraulics and set it down on these jack stands. I used "normal" sized jack stands to hold up the axles when I removed the springs and other hardware. I used a floor jack to raise and lower each axle to align the bolt holes.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk2023 Momentum 398M-R
2023 Ford F-450
SOLD - 2021 Reflection 311BHS
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02-07-2020, 09:09 AM #17
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02-08-2020, 09:28 AM #18
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Yup Per!!
Would be a good time to note, just be aware raising up the RV by the frame to change a tire or to do suspension upgrades or modifications, get jacks ( whatever kind) under the axles at the U bolts pretty quickly. If you raise it high and just let the tires hang in mid air off the leaf springs one of the shackles could flip. Not a huge deal but just be aware that might happen. When you have to change a flat tire, I would get right under the axle U bolts, raise the tire just enough to clear the ground and get it off, much less of a chance one of the shackles might flip.Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
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