DC Electric problem-Rear Lights Fuse-2016 300GK

[boyscout]

I would like to thank everyone that participated in this issue. Here's the final results. Yes, there was a wire that was a direct short. Yes, it was ultimately the wire that came from the distribution box however...….the actual wire was the trail end wire that left the final switch pole and disappeared into the unreachable area of the walls! I started rewiring from the distribution box, checking continuity etc. for each connection. It literally came down to the last wire system and I STILL DON"T KNOW WHAT THE WIRE GOES TO OR WHERE IT IS SHORTED!! However, all system lights that I was expecting to work, do! I even left them ALL on with a 5 amp fuse and even after 30 minutes everything still works! I cut the "bad" wire pair, taped them up and made a mental note to location and IF I find anything that's 12vDC that does not work that I will search thinking of that bad wire first. I have attached a picture of the exact wire that troubled me. If anyone can think of what else might be wired in this setup please let me know. Once again, thanks for all your help!

Congratulations Ted!

I'm curious - on our 310GK the main control panel (awnings, level indicators, water pump, etc.) is just above the switches you're showing, in the side of the hutch cabinet. If yours is the same, did you get into the area behind that control panel or do your wires go directly into the wall and down to the basement from the switches?

I was quietly betting you'd find your short behind that control panel, where there must be (if it's put together like so much else in these GD trailers) a mess of wires and connectors that could rub against each other and eventually short out. From your description, it's still a mystery and I've lost my bet!

[tvhorman]

Boyscout-Thanks for your observation. I have "lurked" on this forum since we purchased in 2016 and rarely post or comment. Many great discoveries and ideas are available and I love reviewing them all.
In the 300, the electrical distribution panel is in the "hall", one step up just before the lav door on the left and co-located with the control panel. It has the notorious head banger door but I rigged it with a bungee so it won't stay open. I pulled the full panel to see the maze of wiring but was easily able to track the wires down. They simply went from the panel through a hole to under the cabinet. I simply added a string when I pulled the suspect wire and all the rest was easily reachable from under the cabinet. During my search I went to the basement and even used my endoscope to help "see" but only a few wires went that way. Did not see where the suspect wire went as it went up the wall vs basement. I was certain that a rodent had eaten it or something but I didn't even see a trace of that while there. Yes, not very organized and if I get the chance I will clean that up but I guess they seek function over form and likely figure only us "geeks" would look back there anyway. I'm not to concerned about the lack of order, much more interested in access. I'm somewhat leery about the whole thing but being that everything works, I mean everything, that wire will likely remain a mystery for me. I can think that maybe it was an "extra" because of some option that wasn't used and found its way to ground. Not going to loose sleep over it.

[howson]

Congratulations, Ted! Glad you found it and all is well.

When I looked at your picture I thought, I wonder how many times he got the 'look' from his wife (as in, 'is it ever going to work again?'). I get that look all the time.

-Howard

[tvhorman]

I'm pretty stubborn about fixing my own stuff and after 30+ years she has come to realize that I loth paying for stuff I can do myself. When I explained that every time we DON'T have to go to the dealer we "save" 4x100 mile trips at 2hrs each, dragging the coach to someone that may or may not be efficient and will most assuredly charge exorbitant fees...…..she gets it. Sometimes she is subject to colorful language and banging and such but, well, you know. I've only taken it to the dealer once, right after we got it to fix the greasy brake thing that was going on and I was lucky because it was in and out in 2 days!

[traveldawg]

Ted,
Glad you fixed it. Thanks for keeping us all up to date.

[Saldog]

Had a similar problem on our 315RLTS, the 15 amp fuse started blowing and I thought it was à bad wire. When it blew we lost all 12 volt power to the rear ceiling lights, light under the hutch, the kitchen exhaust fan, and to the rear living HVAC thermostat. After some testing and disconnecting items it turned out to be the exhaust fan, Excel Air Maxxfan, the circuit board was bad. I received one under warranty and all is good now.

Let us know what you find out.

[ACDW-Ottawa]

It has the notorious head banger door but I rigged it with a bungee so it won't stay open. I pulled the full panel to see the maze of wiring but was easily able to track the wires down.

Same head banger door in mine. I used a spring to automatically close the door

I'm somewhat leery about the whole thing but being that everything works, I mean everything, that wire will likely remain a mystery for me. I can think that maybe it was an "extra" because of some option that wasn't used and found its way to ground. Not going to loose sleep over it.

I wouldn't worry bout the wire. as long as you isolated the wire, its disconnected and taged so you or anyone else crawling in there will be able to identify it as a dead wire, then your good.

As for the mess of wires. they have to keep the wires somewhat loose for movement, but I agree it's messy. Although, Ive seen way worse in my previous RV and there where the wires are jumbled together with the hydraulics, plumbing, etc. One point about Grand Design RV, they use colour coded wiring to identify different circuits (just remembered this from a tour of Grand Design RV's plant).

Glad you found your problem!