No power on slides and jacks

[gbkims]

I am still replacing the mirrors for the reason the slide gets caught like the isn't enough power. I checked the codes and that's what lead me to that! Thanks tho for all your help!

I don't know if this is related to your trouble with the heavier slide, so just passing along what I found.
I did run across a few posts on other forums about schwintek slides and a stall force adjustment for the motors that used to be labeled on the controller cover.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/adju...ce-294917.html
Post 34 http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...ll-224501.html

That adjustment pot is covered over with an X nowdays on the cover, but mine still has the pot adjustment still under that spot on the circuit board.

It sounds like small adjustments could be tried to help with either too little, or too much motor torque.
Have to make sure the schwintek slide tracks are properly installed per the Visual Inspections part of the current In-Wall Slide-Out Service Manual.

From an older In Wall Slideout System Manual:

1-7 Stall force calibration
If the system stalls out before reaching end of stroke, or if the room doesn’t seal as tightly as desired, then stall force may be increased.
***CAUTION***
IF ROOM STALLS MID STROKE, MAKE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OBJECTS IN THE WAY, OR
THAT SOMETHING HAS BEEN PULLED INTO THE SYSTEM, CAUSING RESTRICTED
MOVEMENT. ALSO CHECK SYSTEM VOLTAGE. EVEN THOUGH THE SYSTEM CAN RUN ON AS
LITTLE AS 8VDC, THE FORCE AVAILABLE TO MOVE THE ROOM IS REDUCED ON LOWER
VOLTAGE. IF THE ROOM IS FREE OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND VOLTAGE IS SUFFICIENT (12VDC)
AND THE SYSTEM STILL STALLS MID STROKE, ONLY THEN SHOULD STALL FORCE BE INCREASED.
Press mode button 4 times quickly, then press a 5 th time and hold for approximately 5 seconds.
The red led will start to flash, flash, flash, … Break the seal on the cover over the stall force
calibration hole. Directly below the sealed hole is a potentiometer. Using a small screwdriver
increase the stall force by turning clockwise, turning counter-clockwise will reduce stall force. Once
the desired setting has been reached press the mode button and both led’s will light up. The board
is now back in auto mode.
It is desirable to increase the stall force only enough to insure proper functioning of the room.
Increasing the setting beyond the amount needed only shortens system life.

3-12 Increase motor amperage
See page 4 for stall force calibration. Only increase stall force enough to cycle room effectively

[howson]

Hi, I have a 2950 imagine. This morning everything was working and when I went to load everything up, the slide outs and Jack's didn't work. My slides eventually were pushed in and the jacks were by hand. The main tow jack wouldn't take charge and I had to use a pump jack to hook up. The fridge doesn't have power either. Does this sound like the converter not working? I am replacing the two motors on the slide with the fridge,stove and fireplace. Can you increase the size on the motors to more power? I dont know why I have no power. Just makes it frustrating when this happens at a family reunion.. please please help

Sounds like you've got two distinctly different issues. I'd focus on one at a time. Figure out why the battery died first. (Your slide issue could very well be related to a weak battery.)

Did you check the output of the converter? (I read that the fuses are fine--but is there at least 13V on the outputs with 110vAC applied?)

[GeoffnCheri]

UPDATE*** when i got home the battery was dead dead. I plugged my camper in and nothing happened there either. I placed a battery charger on the battery and most of everything works. The refrigerator still doesn't work. I checked the fuses and the fuse on the converter and everything was fine..i am stumped. My pickup is a 2015 f150. I checked the fuses as well and those were fine on the pickup.

Somewhat confused. If you plugged in to shore power, you should have full power regardless of battery charge level. I would not think this would be related to the later issue pertaining to the relay on the tongue jack. I do not think a bad relay on the tongue jack would prevent shore power from powering the trailer.

[howson]

Somewhat confused. If you plugged in to shore power, you should have full power regardless of battery charge level. I would not think this would be related to the later issue pertaining to the relay on the tongue jack. I do not think a bad relay on the tongue jack would prevent shore power from powering the trailer.

Exactly right! That's why he needs to check the output on his converter.

[Takoda]

Somewhat confused. If you plugged in to shore power, you should have full power regardless of battery charge level. I would not think this would be related to the later issue pertaining to the relay on the tongue jack. I do not think a bad relay on the tongue jack would prevent shore power from powering the trailer.

That is mostly correct. However, also keep in mind that shore power providing 12 VDC through the converter is not typically enough current to run the slides in/out. They need the extra capacity of a charged battery.

[JCR GD]

^^^^^ this except he means converter

[Takoda]

Yup, post corrected.

Thanks Jim.