Auto leveling system

[dryfly]

Hopefully my new 150 Series Reflection will arrive at the dealer next week. The new ones include the auto leveling feature which I'm not sure I'm so crazy about, but will probably learn to appreciate the system.

My question is are they really used for leveling vs. stabilization? I've always used boards to get my 5th wheel level, and then used the jacks to stabilize the trailer. I wondering if folks rely strictly on the auto level, or if it's still less strain on the system to go ahead and stick some boards under the tires to get close to level and then employee the auto leveel function?

Also, if something goes wrong is there a manual method to lower the front jacks to at least get the trailer off the truck?

[DaveMatthewsBand]

I’ve wondered about this as I constantly see RV’s with leveling systems that have lifted the wheels completely off the ground, which seems like a really bad idea!
One of the reasons we chose the 220RK is the fact that there is no leveling system, less stuff to break. We use the LevelMatePro which allows me to get the trailer level within a couple minutes without even leaving the truck.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Superduty]

Hopefully my new 150 Series Reflection will arrive at the dealer next week. The new ones include the auto leveling feature which I'm not sure I'm so crazy about, but will probably learn to appreciate the system.

My question is are they really used for leveling vs. stabilization? I've always used boards to get my 5th wheel level, and then used the jacks to stabilize the trailer. I wondering if folks rely strictly on the auto level, or if it's still less strain on the system to go ahead and stick some boards under the tires to get close to level and then employee the auto leveel function?

Also, if something goes wrong is there a manual method to lower the front jacks to at least get the trailer off the truck?

I have the 3.0 leveling system on my 303. I always try to be close "side to side" to prevent having the wheels lift off the ground. I have heard both ways it does not hurt and you should not have the wheels off the ground. Who's right ???
On the system, your nose on the 5er must be slightly high (up) for the auto level to work correctly they say.

Yes, on the manual method to lower the jacks. The book you will get with the trailer will explain this. You can also get on Lipperts Web Site and download a copy for your electronic devices.

[livinthelife]

Hopefully my new 150 Series Reflection will arrive at the dealer next week. The new ones include the auto leveling feature which I'm not sure I'm so crazy about, but will probably learn to appreciate the system.

My question is are they really used for leveling vs. stabilization? I've always used boards to get my 5th wheel level, and then used the jacks to stabilize the trailer. I wondering if folks rely strictly on the auto level, or if it's still less strain on the system to go ahead and stick some boards under the tires to get close to level and then employee the auto leveel function?

Also, if something goes wrong is there a manual method to lower the front jacks to at least get the trailer off the truck?

We always eyeball the rig to see that it's "pretty level" before using the auto-level. Sometimes that means using the wood leveling boards we have. Most of the time, not. So, the auto level is all that's used. Seems to make the rig stable.

Yes, you can manually lower/raise the jacks, if necessary. Sorry, I can't tell you the specifics on that.

[xrated]

You are going to find in the Lippert manual that the auto level is designed to work best with a site that is already fairly level. It will have the power to raise the wheels off the ground if needed, but I for one will never allow it to do that. To me, just because it can, doesn't mean you should. One of the hazards of getting the tires/wheels off of the ground is a spring shackle flipping down when all the weight is off of the tires/wheels. So my procedure involves looking at the site before starting the level procedure and if it doesn't look to me like the auto level can do it's thing without the wheels coming off the ground, I will place pieces of 2" x 10" under the wheels on the low side to help with the amount that the leveling legs have to lift. Of course, you will also need to put some blocking under the leveling legs also. The shorter or less extension that you have to extend the leveling legs, the more solid/less movement you will have when the trailer is levelled up and ready to camp.

[fam5mel]

I love the auto leveling but beware it will do whatever it needs to level the unit. We learned this the hard way after first being newbies with our 337RL. We were on a slightly inclined site in Kentucky. Pushed the auto level and went about our business. My wife came around panicking that the rear wheels were coming up off the ground. I ran around to hit the power button to auto level control panel. To late. We heard a massive boom and thought the unit had blown up. It was the axle and tires dropping and flipping the Equiflex units. A major scare and headache. We were so fortunate that a fellow camper came to our rescue and knew how to flip them back. Never again will I let those tires raise up off the ground. You at times may run into stroke limits because it can't raise or lower the RV enough. In this case you will need to readjust. I've had times when I've unhooked from truck and then had to rehook. All part of the learning curve. It's a great feature after you get used to it.

[JKellerJr]

I guess I'll go against the grain. I've had one side or the other off the ground several times. Just don't see the issue. We have a six point system and use the Anderson blocks to cut down on the stroke. If I had only 4 points I don't think I would do that. The only time I've had the shackles flip was when I had all four off the ground to replace the tires. They flipped back when I set it down, yes it doesn't sound good!

[dryfly]

You are going to find in the Lippert manual that the auto level is designed to work best with a site that is already fairly level. It will have the power to raise the wheels off the ground if needed, but I for one will never allow it to do that. To me, just because it can, doesn't mean you should. One of the hazards of getting the tires/wheels off of the ground is a spring shackle flipping down when all the weight is off of the tires/wheels. So my procedure involves looking at the site before starting the level procedure and if it doesn't look to me like the auto level can do it's thing without the wheels coming off the ground, I will place pieces of 2" x 10" under the wheels on the low side to help with the amount that the leveling legs have to lift. Of course, you will also need to put some blocking under the leveling legs also. The shorter or less extension that you have to extend the leveling legs, the more solid/less movement you will have when the trailer is levelled up and ready to camp.

Not sure I understand why you also have to put blocks under the leveling legs. Seems like if you used blocks under the tires the legs would just do their thing and level the trailer. Guess I'm just going to have to see it work.

Personally I'd feel pretty uncomfortable with the wheels off the ground.

[Dopperud]

I love the auto level system. I have at times had one set of wheels off the ground and haven't given it a second thought. Once the shackels flipped, but it was not a big deal as they flipped back when it went down. I do use Anderson blocks on the front to keep the stroke shorter, but other than that I let it do it's thing. Other than once re-zeroing, the system has been trouble free.

[xrated]

Not sure I understand why you also have to put blocks under the leveling legs. Seems like if you used blocks under the tires the legs would just do their thing and level the trailer. Guess I'm just going to have to see it work.

Personally I'd feel pretty uncomfortable with the wheels off the ground.

You don't HAVE to put blocks under the leveling legs, but remember, the shorter the distance that the leg has to travel down out of the hyd. cylinder body and make contact with the ground, the more stable the trailer will be when you are done. So if you raise the trailer up a couple of inches with blocking under the tires/wheels on the low side, if you don't use blocking under the legs, they will have to come down an additional 2 inches to make contact. It just helps out to reduce the leg travel ....making the trailer more stable.