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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncitro View Post
    I have a dream to install these at some point but they are too rich for my blood:

    https://drainmaster.com/rv/products/mini-view2
    I never saw the point of remotely operated electric valves..
    You still have to remove the cap and put the sewer hose on while the valve is closed..
    The only thing that changes any of that is another gate directly behind the cap, as others have said they'd like..
    Thank you for the link but this isn't what I have been interested in..
    There is such a thing as a half million dollar motorhome..
    I find it hard to believe they have these plastic gate valves..
    There has to be such a thing as a well made brass valve,
    but it'd have to be a simple gate as a ball valve in 3" would be awfully big and heavy. ( and crazy expensive )
    It could be simple as it must seal but it wouldn't have to resist 100 psi or more..

    Teddy

  2. #22
    Left The Driveway
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    T-58 fix

    Quote Originally Posted by D2Reid View Post
    Glue is rather a permanent solution and those valves will fail eventually, takes several years of full time use. I put a set screw in the top of the pipe to hold the Valtera valve on. I put it on the top so that it would not tend to leak nor collect things as the tanks are flushed.

    I do this because I remove the Valtera valve when we travel in winter. That little bit of water freezes the valve closed.
    I installed the T58 and had the same issue it wanting to twist off when removing the cap. My solution was to use a hose clamp tightened around the base of the valve just outside of the bayonet clamps. I tried to twist it off and couldn’t that worked for me.

  3. #23
    Seasoned Camper ncitro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onebadhawk View Post
    I never saw the point of remotely operated electric valves..
    You still have to remove the cap and put the sewer hose on while the valve is closed..
    The only thing that changes any of that is another gate directly behind the cap, as others have said they'd like..
    Thank you for the link but this isn't what I have been interested in..
    There is such a thing as a half million dollar motorhome..
    I find it hard to believe they have these plastic gate valves..
    There has to be such a thing as a well made brass valve,
    but it'd have to be a simple gate as a ball valve in 3" would be awfully big and heavy. ( and crazy expensive )
    It could be simple as it must seal but it wouldn't have to resist 100 psi or more..

    Teddy
    In my particular unit the cables going to the valves are bent at an awkward angle, and loop a couple of time. I have replaced both of my valves and shortened the cables, but I have often thought that electric ones would not have this issue with the cable routing to deal with, and might possibly have a better seal than what the cable can achieve. In the meantime I make due with the glued T58 right at the outlet. To answer your question more directly I can say that in 20 years of RVing I have not encountered anything better than the Valterra plastic gate valves.
    2018 Reflection 28BH
    2019 F350 Platinum 6.7L LB 4x4

  4. #24
    Rolling Along
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    I had the same "seepage" problem every time I removed my cap. My brother read something that sounded like a really good idea and had added benefits, but it only benefits if you have only one drain for your sewage...Read on.

    I bought a new 3 inch gate valve at the RV store. It had a coupling flange on the trailer side and the connector barbs on the hose side. After sawing the hose connector pipe off so the new valve wouldn't stick out past the unit I glued the new valve to the end of the pipe. Lowes sells ABS glue, but it dries super-fast so read the instructions first. What this does is gives a final gate valve two inches before the cap. Now when I remove my cap the inside is completely dry. Whew! No more messes.

    Now for the added benefit for doing this...What kicks my butt is that I didn't think of it myself (ego). Since the final valve is "after" the two individual valves for the two gray water tanks, by leaving this "final" valve closed, you can open both gray tank valves turn your two individual gray water tanks into one BIG tank. You no longer have to worry about one filling up while the other is mostly empty. If you mostly dry camp like we do, the kitchen tank fills up while the bathroom tank never gets close. When we have full hook-up the bathroom tank fills first after a few showers and washing/brushing with the kitchen tank right behind. Mot any more. This saves me at least two trips with the blue tank to the dump station on a two-week vacation. Neat, huh?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncitro View Post
    In my particular unit the cables going to the valves are bent at an awkward angle, and loop a couple of time. I have replaced both of my valves and shortened the cables, but I have often thought that electric ones would not have this issue with the cable routing to deal with, and might possibly have a better seal than what the cable can achieve. In the meantime I make due with the glued T58 right at the outlet. To answer your question more directly I can say that in 20 years of RVing I have not encountered anything better than the Valterra plastic gate valves.
    Now if your cable is long and has too many bends in it that's a great reason for the electric valves..
    But your years of experience are exactly my point.
    I have never seen any other valve either..
    I find it hard to believe there's no such thing..
    I'd like to take a look at the valve on a super expensive motorhome..

    Quote Originally Posted by fez111 View Post
    I had the same "seepage" problem every time I removed my cap. My brother read something that sounded like a really good idea and had added benefits, but it only benefits if you have only one drain for your sewage...Read on.

    I bought a new 3 inch gate valve at the RV store. It had a coupling flange on the trailer side and the connector barbs on the hose side. After sawing the hose connector pipe off so the new valve wouldn't stick out past the unit I glued the new valve to the end of the pipe. Lowes sells ABS glue, but it dries super-fast so read the instructions first. What this does is gives a final gate valve two inches before the cap. Now when I remove my cap the inside is completely dry. Whew! No more messes.

    Now for the added benefit for doing this...What kicks my butt is that I didn't think of it myself (ego). Since the final valve is "after" the two individual valves for the two gray water tanks, by leaving this "final" valve closed, you can open both gray tank valves turn your two individual gray water tanks into one BIG tank. You no longer have to worry about one filling up while the other is mostly empty. If you mostly dry camp like we do, the kitchen tank fills up while the bathroom tank never gets close. When we have full hook-up the bathroom tank fills first after a few showers and washing/brushing with the kitchen tank right behind. Mot any more. This saves me at least two trips with the blue tank to the dump station on a two-week vacation. Neat, huh?
    This is a fantastic idea..
    This one I'm going to do for sure..
    Getting the two gray tanks to self level is really big..
    I do nothing with one but brush my teeth into it..
    It has less than a 5 gallon bucket in it by the time the other is getting full..

    This is a biggie..

    Thank you..

    Teddy

  6. #26
    Seasoned Camper ncitro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fez111 View Post
    I had the same "seepage" problem every time I removed my cap. My brother read something that sounded like a really good idea and had added benefits, but it only benefits if you have only one drain for your sewage...Read on.

    I bought a new 3 inch gate valve at the RV store. It had a coupling flange on the trailer side and the connector barbs on the hose side. After sawing the hose connector pipe off so the new valve wouldn't stick out past the unit I glued the new valve to the end of the pipe. Lowes sells ABS glue, but it dries super-fast so read the instructions first. What this does is gives a final gate valve two inches before the cap. Now when I remove my cap the inside is completely dry. Whew! No more messes.

    Now for the added benefit for doing this...What kicks my butt is that I didn't think of it myself (ego). Since the final valve is "after" the two individual valves for the two gray water tanks, by leaving this "final" valve closed, you can open both gray tank valves turn your two individual gray water tanks into one BIG tank. You no longer have to worry about one filling up while the other is mostly empty. If you mostly dry camp like we do, the kitchen tank fills up while the bathroom tank never gets close. When we have full hook-up the bathroom tank fills first after a few showers and washing/brushing with the kitchen tank right behind. Mot any more. This saves me at least two trips with the blue tank to the dump station on a two-week vacation. Neat, huh?
    I would love to be able to do this, but my galley grey tank has a separate outlet at the rear of my trailer
    2018 Reflection 28BH
    2019 F350 Platinum 6.7L LB 4x4

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncitro View Post
    I would love to be able to do this, but my galley grey tank has a separate outlet at the rear of my trailer
    You can still do it..
    You can ty wrap a garden hose under the rig from one drain to the other..
    When you cut the bayonet off each to put the outside gate valve on put in a garden hose fitting..
    The tanks will self level through the garden hose.
    You must disconnect the garden hose and allow it to drain / blow it out to winterize the rig..

    Teddy

  8. #28
    Seasoned Camper ncitro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onebadhawk View Post
    You can still do it..
    You can ty wrap a garden hose under the rig from one drain to the other..
    When you cut the bayonet off each to put the outside gate valve on put in a garden hose fitting..
    The tanks will self level through the garden hose.
    You must disconnect the garden hose and allow it to drain / blow it out to winterize the rig..

    Teddy
    I suppose, but the hose is always going to have some in it, and the galley tank can be kind of nasty. Good thought though.
    2018 Reflection 28BH
    2019 F350 Platinum 6.7L LB 4x4

  9. #29
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onebadhawk View Post
    I never saw the point of remotely operated electric valves..
    There is such a thing as a half million dollar motorhome..
    I find it hard to believe they have these plastic gate valves..
    The Newmar King Aire pushes pretty close to a million dollars and uses the valves that @ncitro proposed.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncitro View Post
    I suppose, but the hose is always going to have some in it, and the galley tank can be kind of nasty. Good thought though.
    Yep,,
    But that really doesn't matter..
    As long as there aren't big solids in the tank it'll work perfectly,
    and exactly what's in the hose you won't know about..
    Just give a good flush for the winter..

    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    The Newmar King Aire pushes pretty close to a million dollars and uses the valves that @ncitro proposed.
    Wow,,
    Then that answers that question I guess..

    Hey,,
    Ya know,
    One more point about this.
    I always leave my gates in the halfway position for the winter..
    Thinking I don't want water to drip down against a closed gate and freeze..
    I don't think you can leave those electric valves in a half position..

    Teddy

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