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  1. #1
    Seasoned Camper FatTire's Avatar
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    Oil change 2018 Ram CTD

    Getting my first oil change on my 2018 Ram CTD. Besides the oil, they are changing the fuel filter and water separator which they say is a big can and required disconnecting an AC line. Now they have to recharge it. I thought there were two fuel filters only. What is usually done for service? I’ve been told this is an easy do it yourself project but not if you have to disconnect ac lines. Thanks.
    2018 Reflection 303 RLS
    2018 Ram BigHorn 3500 CTD

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    Seasoned Camper
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    Run! Run fast. I’ve done my own oil and fuel filter changes multiple times and NEVER have disconnected an AC line. I own a 2013 and don’t believe anything has changed. One fuel filter is accessed from top and one from underneath in the rear. The oil filter is a pain to access but should be easy for someone who has done it several times.
    2013 Ram Cummins 3500
    2019 GD 303RLS-SOLD

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    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    I also don't know what they're talking about.
    Wonder if they meant taking off the intake air hose to the turbo to remove the oil filter from the top.
    https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...-2018-ram.html
    https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...questions.html
    I do both my fuel filters and oil & filter.
    I do my oil filter from the wheel well and loosen one transmission cooling line clamp so I can hold it aside for a little extra room for the oil filter.
    The fuel filters seem straightforward to me.

    There is a small change on the 2019's rear fuel separator, went to canister filter.
    Last edited by gbkims; 08-11-2019 at 12:45 PM.
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

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    Rolling Along kevinpo's Avatar
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    Hello,
    I have a 2015 and that was not required for my model (see signature).

    Regards,
    Kevin
    PS: Dealer charged me $161.94.
    Last edited by kevinpo; 08-11-2019 at 08:05 PM.
    2015 Ram Laramie 3500 4x4 LB Dually Crew Cab
    6.7L I6 Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine 5th wheel Prep
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    Seasoned Camper FatTire's Avatar
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    Not sure what if anything has changed for 2018, but just wanting to make sure they changed everything that was necessary - everyone seems to be saying that there are two fuel filters - I was told a fuel filter and water separator.
    2018 Reflection 303 RLS
    2018 Ram BigHorn 3500 CTD

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    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    I changed my 2018 CTD twice now. You do not need to remove any AC lines, that is BS.
    If removing the oil filter out through the top of the engine, Yes it is best to remove the air intake tubes down to the turbo, simple task, gives you more room to get the filter up and out from the top of the engine. I always put a least a quart of oil in the new filter before I put it on.
    In my case its not practical to take the filter out through the right front wheel well. The cut out in the plastic inner fender is not big enough on my truck to get your hands in there and turn the filter sideways to get it out through the whole. There is a special cap tool that you screw on the filter to keep from dumping oil out of the filter when you turn it sideways. I don't use it.

    For the fuel filters (2 of them), the one up on the left side of the engine is a cartridge filter, place a drip pan under the engine, open the drain valve, and when you loosen the filter cap some diesel fuel will drain out. R&R the fuel filter and screw the cap back on with a new O-ring.
    For the rear fuel filter back by the rear axle, it is a big screw on canister type filter with the water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor screwed on to the bottom of the filter. Again using a drip pan, open the drain valve at the bottom of the filter assy and let it drain. Using a web filter wrench loosen the filter. Then by hand unscrew the filter pretty fast and as soon as its off a snap valve will close off the fuel line. You have to remove the water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor from the bottom of the old fuel filter and put it on the new filter. I just use my soft jawed vice to clamp and hold the filter and WIF sensor, unscrew the old fuel filter and using a new O-ring screw the new filter onto the WIF sensor. Then screw the new filter/WIF sensor assy back on to the truck with a new O-ring at the top of the filter. As you screw the filter assy back on it will open the fuel line snap valve, hand tighten only.

    Once your done, cycle the engine start button to the ignition on position 3 times without pushing the brake pedal. This gets the fuel pumps going to fill the new fuel filters with diesel. If you just try to start the engine first thing it will not start until the new filters are full of fuel.

    I always buy the Mopar filter change package from Amazon. Comes with the correct Mopar oil filter and the two fuel filters. IIRC is about $80. My local Chrysler dealer wants $450 for a complete oil change using 15W40 full synthetic Shell Rotella T5 oil 12 quarts and fuel filter change.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
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  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper FatTire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven@147 View Post
    I changed my 2018 CTD twice now. You do not need to remove any AC lines, that is BS.
    If removing the oil filter out through the top of the engine, Yes it is best to remove the air intake tubes down to the turbo, simple task, gives you more room to get the filter up and out from the top of the engine. I always put a least a quart of oil in the new filter before I put it on.
    In my case its not practical to take the filter out through the right front wheel well. The cut out in the plastic inner fender is not big enough on my truck to get your hands in there and turn the filter sideways to get it out through the whole. There is a special cap tool that you screw on the filter to keep from dumping oil out of the filter when you turn it sideways. I don't use it.

    For the fuel filters (2 of them), the one up on the left side of the engine is a cartridge filter, place a drip pan under the engine, open the drain valve, and when you loosen the filter cap some diesel fuel will drain out. R&R the fuel filter and screw the cap back on with a new O-ring.
    For the rear fuel filter back by the rear axle, it is a big screw on canister type filter with the water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor screwed on to the bottom of the filter. Again using a drip pan, open the drain valve at the bottom of the filter assy and let it drain. Using a web filter wrench loosen the filter. Then by hand unscrew the filter pretty fast and as soon as its off a snap valve will close off the fuel line. You have to remove the water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor from the bottom of the old fuel filter and put it on the new filter. I just use my soft jawed vice to clamp and hold the filter and WIF sensor, unscrew the old fuel filter and using a new O-ring screw the new filter onto the WIF sensor. Then screw the new filter/WIF sensor assy back on to the truck with a new O-ring at the top of the filter. As you screw the filter assy back on it will open the fuel line snap valve, hand tighten only.

    Once your done, cycle the engine start button to the ignition on position 3 times without pushing the brake pedal. This gets the fuel pumps going to fill the new fuel filters with diesel. If you just try to start the engine first thing it will not start until the new filters are full of fuel.

    I always buy the Mopar filter change package from Amazon. Comes with the correct Mopar oil filter and the two fuel filters. IIRC is about $80. My local Chrysler dealer wants $450 for a complete oil change using 15W40 full synthetic Shell Rotella T5 oil 12 quarts and fuel filter change.
    So this has me concerned. You are saying that the other fuel filter on a 2018 is by the rear axle, and you don't mention anything about the water separator in the front that they replaced. I'm pretty sure that they didn't replace anything near the rear axle. Going to go take a look now.
    2018 Reflection 303 RLS
    2018 Ram BigHorn 3500 CTD

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    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Glad we have a GMC diesel. We got our oil changed at the dealer in Bradenton FL, for $80's. That was with full synthetic.
    Marcy & Gary
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  9. #9
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatTire View Post
    So this has me concerned. You are saying that the other fuel filter on a 2018 is by the rear axle, and you don't mention anything about the water separator in the front that they replaced. I'm pretty sure that they didn't replace anything near the rear axle. Going to go take a look now.
    That is correct the rear fuel filter is back by the rear axle up by the underside of the bed. You don't do anything to a water separator at the front of the engine except drain the container the filter sets in, opening the drain valve when you change the front fuel filter.They do say it includes a water separator but that is just the front fuel filter, but they call it a water separator. It is not like a separate part you need to change. The filter is the separator.

    I was a little off on the Amazon price for the filters kit, its 37.99 + maybe a little shipping.
    Search for the filter kit on Amazon. The oil I buy at Walmart, cost $54 for 3 gallons. So I may have $94-$100 in filters and oil.

    Yup a dealership uses bulk oil so maybe its cheaper, but the stealership charges a lot of labor for a simple job. Our local stealership is gouging people. Of course they claim part of the cost is disposing of hazardous waist.
    I will use only Mopar filters for my Diesel and they cost more but there is no way I am using cheap filters or a cheap quick change oil store or a Toyota dealership to change the oil in my Ram. A local Toyota dealership said they would do it for $200.

    I have learned, I don't trust just anybody anymore. If I were to use someone to change my oil and all three filters, it would be a Ram dealership. If they screw it up, they can fix it. If a Toyota place or quick change oil store screws it up I am screwed.

    Also I use the standard recommended oil and filter service intervals, every 15,000 miles. Or by looking at the dash display when the useful life of the oil and fuel filters gets @ 30% left. Some people like to do it a lot sooner, and thats ok with them.
    Last edited by Steven@147; 08-12-2019 at 09:58 AM. Reason: edit for clarity
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  10. #10
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    I guess I get lazy when naming the fuel filter, water filter separator.
    For my 2017:
    The front fuel filter MO-291 in the engine compartment is the finer micron fuel filter, Mopar 68157291AA
    The rear above the axle MO-867 is a water filter separator, Mopar 68197867AA.

    As for DIY, only use Mopar filters and not some cheap knockoffs.
    I pick the ones sold by Dodge dealers like Athens, they're $103.xx for the set right now.
    Just saw a post where a person used the ebay ones and afterwards couldn't start his engine. b/c of the front fuel filter.
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

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