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  1. #11
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    Would you please give us a link to those heavy duty shackles. thanks


    Have to match up the kit to match your spring hangers(standard/correct track) equalizer type (equaflex, MORryde), e.g.:
    Standard Spring Hanger:
    Tandem Axle Shackle Kit 2-1/4" UO12-016 https://www.dyersonline.com/mor-ryde...-sre-4000.html
    Tandem Axle Shackle Kit 3-1/8" UO12-021 https://www.dyersonline.com/morryde-...ackle-kit.html
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  2. #12
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Thanks Gene. Just got a new Reflection and it has the bolts with grease fittings but don't know if they used brass bushings. Did you remove all wheels and do the work, or one wheel at a time?

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper
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    Great advise in all threads especially Buckskin description. When I did mine I had 3 out of 4 leaking grease seals an the brake cleaner really does a good job of cleaning things up. The bearing packer makes it so easy. I always do one at a time. I have a ramp made up of 4 - 2 x 12" and pull up on it with on the wheel not being worked on. It makes changing a flat on the road duck soup.

  4. #14
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    Thanks Gene. Just got a new Reflection and it has the bolts with grease fittings but don't know if they used brass bushings. Did you remove all wheels and do the work, or one wheel at a time?
    I'd think shackle bolts with zerks would have the brass/bronze bushings.
    My original shackle bolts didn't have zerks and used the nylon bushings.

    For me I did one side at a time while changing the shackles as well as the equalizer.
    I use stubby bottle jacks under the axles to keep the spring/shackes from flipping as well as take spring tension off the shackles while changing them.
    I'd put some picts in Post 5 https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post241929
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  5. #15
    Fireside Member SF-SGM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckskin View Post
    Just finished and lessons learned:
    1. Have new seals on hand, found 10 pky on Amazon for $19 - name brand.
    2. Grease packing tool is a must to get out all old grease out of bearings, wipe old grease from bearing and repack tool and repack bearings. Leave excess new grease on bearings don't wipe off.
    3. 2 cans of brake cleaner, paper towels to catch runoff and clean
    4. Seal pulling tool helpful, found one on Amazon or auto parts stores have them.
    After jacking camper and also using jack stand for safety I repack one wheel at a time. I backed off on brake adjustment to make it easier to remove hub. Sprayed brake cleaner both on brake assembly and inside hub but not in bearing area. I used Lucas X tra heavy duty bearing grease(available at part stores, Walmart & Home Depot) after reading good reviews on it. carefully remove castle nut retaining cage using 2 screw drivers to work it off castle nut - don't bend retaining tabs. Clean all old grease from inside hub and inspected races and bearings and put grease on and around bearing races, light coat of grease on spindle and especially where seal rides on spindle. put inner bearing in with lots of grease on it and installed new seal - used clean wooden block to lay across seal to install. Put in other race with lots of grease, washer, castle nut. Then tighten slightly with channel locks to make sure everything was seated good while spinning drum, then loosened castle nut and hand tighten it - over tightening is far worst than under tightening. When you over tighten you squeeze all grease from between races and bearings and nothing to lubricate between bearings and races. Pumped a little more grease through jerk fitting to make sure there was grease around seal. Some people pump grease until it come out front but I was afraid of blowing out grease seal. Grease is not going to be moving around inside hub assembly, so grease everything good before installing everything. Replace castle nut retaining clip or lock and make sure it is securely locked into place. Make sure hub spins easily and replace hub cap and tapping it flush with drum. I then adjusted brakes so there was slight drag on hub. Replace any bearings and races if they are discolored, pitted or damaged.

    I carry infrared temp gun to check temperature of both hub spindle area and brake drum area when I stop for rest or get gas. You will know if you have problem if temperatures are not about average on 4 wheels.
    I was just wondering if that "jerk" fitting gave you problems?
    Retired SF Sergeant Major
    Retired Sheriff's detective

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    A couple of tips; on disassembly remove the nut, washer, bearing. Then replace the nut only. Now when you jerk the drum off the inner bearing and seal will be hanging on the spindle waiting for you. 2, the thing I didn't see mentioned is cleaning the bearings is a tedious process but necessary to inspect them, and thats why were here instead of using the bearing buddy. FYI, the most common or rather earliest fail location is typically on the inner race, down in between the rollers where its also the most difficult area to inspect. Reason is the contact patch is smaller, and surface speeds higher. Last, adjustment goal is to achieve zero lash, zero preload. A little lash or preload is ok within the range of the nearest lock location. Hand tight is usually perfect as long as the thread dont bind etc.

  7. #17
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    I convince myself I’m being cautious when maybe I am just being lazy, but I always replace all bearings with new ones. I’ll check the races and replace if any wear signs.

  8. #18
    Rolling Along
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    Hi All. My two cents... In 2016 there was a lot of buzz about grease leaking into the brakes on the larger units. Our 2016 Solitude was built at the tail end of that saga. Up until recently I felt like we lucked out on that one. In July, while pulling the Solitude on vacation it felt like there was not nearly as much stopping power as I remembered. So, with a two-week vacation starting Labor Day weekend, I decided I would not rest easy unless I checked. This past Friday I took off a wheel. There was some soot but no grease on the drum. However, there was evidence that the seal had been leaking. The second one had more evidence. The last one had grease and oil flowing down the wall of the drum when I laid it flat. It was a gooey mess! A Trip to General RV got me four new seals for $19. Lots of degreaser and MEK cleaned everything up. The bearings looked and are, in fact, almost new so I added more grease. Two of the wheels (both on the left side) had much less grease then the other two. Now that this job is finished I feel much more at ease knowing that we will have much better braking next week.

    If you feel that your braking seems a tad anemic, it is worth the trouble to know for sure whether or not your brakes had been compromised by leaking grease. Our Solitude weighs more than twice what the truck weighs. Without trailer brakes standing on the brake pedal with both feet will not avout a crash. Again, my two cents.

  9. #19
    Rolling Along
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    I'm kinda disappointed in you guys for over-looking one of - if not the - most important things for this job.

    BEER!

    'Nuff said.

    Tom
    Tom & Donna
    Our RV: 2016 Reflection 337RLS 5th wheel
    Our Tow Beast: 2017 Ram 3500 Limited Dually
    Our Dogs: Sadie & Bugsey
    Favorite Drink: Moonshine
    Nationality: Redneck
    My Motto: May the bridges we burn light the way

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #20
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    Would you please give us a link to those heavy duty shackles. thanks
    I'm very sorry, this slipped by me. We bought local not on line so no link to be had. They were dexter but don't have the part number on hand
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
    2022 GMC 3500 Denali Duramax Longbed SRW
    2015 GMC Denali 3500 - Retired
    2003 F350 - retired
    Michigan
    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
    https://3dogsandatrailer.wordpress.com/


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