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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaseyKey View Post
    I convince myself I’m being cautious when maybe I am just being lazy, but I always replace all bearings with new ones. I’ll check the races and replace if any wear signs.
    I was always told to replace in pairs. Races and bearings.
    John & Kathy
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  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    I was always told to replace in pairs. Races and bearings.
    Sorry I am 3 months late to the party but yes, replacing bearings without races is a recipe for disaster. Each bearing and race assembly is matched during manufacture and should always be replaced together and kept together during re-packs. Just had a guy over on the IVR2 forum that replaced bearings only early in the year and one already burned up on him.

  3. #23
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigb56 View Post
    Sorry I am 3 months late to the party but yes, replacing bearings without races is a recipe for disaster. Each bearing and race assembly is matched during manufacture and should always be replaced together and kept together during re-packs. Just had a guy over on the IVR2 forum that replaced bearings only early in the year and one already burned up on him.
    While it is always preferable to replace the race when replacing the roller bearing - IT IS NOT MANDATORY!! It stands to reason that if your roller bearing is pitted or discolored to the extent that it needs replacing, the race will also exhibit signs of distress. But to say that one HAS TO replace the race is simply not true. There can be an issue with the bearing that did not transfer to the race. However, AFAIK, if I'm already dirty and greasy and gotten to the point of replacing the bearing, I'll replace the race since it's not costing me a whole bunch more.

    As to the comment that bearing and races are "matched during manufacturing" is simply not true. Yes - a manufacturer can elect to do this during their process, but it is a costly and time consuming step to implement into the process. If you're controlling the machining process sufficiently whereby the tolerance stack up for the bearings and races are within an acceptable range, there is no legitimate reason to add the additional cost of "matching" to the process. Think about it..... How would you make this matching process happen? Via a person? Via automation? The manufacturing line for the bearings is completely separate from the line for races. How do those two manufacturing processes/operations get married together so that a bearing and race are "matched"? It can be done - but at what expense and at what value? Again, with todays' machining technology, we can hold tolerances in mass production that were unheard of just 10 years ago. And with that, we drive out unnecessary downstream process costs such as "matching".

    Tom
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  4. #24
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    When buying new bearings they come with new races. For the reason Tom said if the bearing has been damaged there is a good chance the race was damaged also. There would be a rel good chance that bearing and race have the same amount of miles on them meaning it may be a good idea to replace them together.
    Marcy & Gary
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  5. #25
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    Just for a data point. I replaced all my bearings shortly after delivery in Nov 2016. I changed the races for 1 of 6 wheels. It was a PITA, so I reused races on the other 5 wheels. I probably have close to 20k miles on those bearings with annual inspections and hand repacking using Lucas Red n Tacky grease. I have no evidence of any issues with any of the bearings.

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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by GENESIS View Post
    While it is always preferable to replace the race when replacing the roller bearing - IT IS NOT MANDATORY!! It stands to reason that if your roller bearing is pitted or discolored to the extent that it needs replacing, the race will also exhibit signs of distress. But to say that one HAS TO replace the race is simply not true. There can be an issue with the bearing that did not transfer to the race. However, AFAIK, if I'm already dirty and greasy and gotten to the point of replacing the bearing, I'll replace the race since it's not costing me a whole bunch more.

    As to the comment that bearing and races are "matched during manufacturing" is simply not true. Yes - a manufacturer can elect to do this during their process, but it is a costly and time consuming step to implement into the process. If you're controlling the machining process sufficiently whereby the tolerance stack up for the bearings and races are within an acceptable range, there is no legitimate reason to add the additional cost of "matching" to the process. Think about it..... How would you make this matching process happen? Via a person? Via automation? The manufacturing line for the bearings is completely separate from the line for races. How do those two manufacturing processes/operations get married together so that a bearing and race are "matched"? It can be done - but at what expense and at what value? Again, with todays' machining technology, we can hold tolerances in mass production that were unheard of just 10 years ago. And with that, we drive out unnecessary downstream process costs such as "matching".

    Tom
    Makes sense, I never thought about the cost to do it which drives everything today. However I would think there may be differences between different manufactures, I would be uneasy about fitting one manufacturers bearing to another's race. Especially with all the overseas manufacturers now days. Also fitting a new bearing to a race that may be worn, I do remember reading that a bearing and race wear into each other and should be kept together. Maybe this used to be true, or maybe it's just urban legend and always has been. Anyhow I am from the "keep them together" school.
    Last edited by bigb56; 12-08-2019 at 08:49 PM.

  7. #27
    Site Sponsor Buckskin's Avatar
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    Manufacturing Process

    Quote Originally Posted by bigb56 View Post
    Makes sense, I never thought about the cost to do it which drives everything today. However I would think there may be differences between different manufactures, I would be uneasy about fitting one manufacturers bearing to another's race. Especially with all the overseas manufacturers now days. Also fitting a new bearing to a race that may be worn, I do remember reading that a bearing and race wear into each other and should be kept together. Maybe this used to be true, or maybe it's just urban legend and always has been. Anyhow I am from the "keep them together" school.
    Having worked in gear manufacturing this statement is very true; tolerances during today's manufacturing process are very tight. Gears that run together are usually not made on same machine or maybe not in same manufacturing plant but have to mate up very closely to prevent noise and excessive wear. Same is true about bearing manufacturing to prevent noise and wear.

    However the manufacture has to be a good one; if possible I had rather have bearings made in USA where manufacturing processes are better controlled. Saw India made gears that were nothing but junk. India is go to country now for a lot of bearings and gears because of lower cost. My saying is if you save a penny up front but you may pay a dollar on back side due to poor quality. This is not a good business decision. You may save a few dollars on bearings made in 3rd world country but you may be broke down on side of road due to bearing failure.

    Over tightening castle nut is one of the number one reason for bearing failure; you squeeze all grease from between bearing and race and you are running on metal to metal with no lubrication.

  8. #28
    Setting Up Camp Riverrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigb56 View Post
    Also fitting a new bearing to a race that may be worn, I do remember reading that a bearing and race wear into each other and should be kept together.
    This right here is why you replace in pairs. If you need to replace the races, you can take the hub to a machine shop and for a few bucks they can R&R the races using their press. I've done by hand once and never again. Last trailer I overhauled it was $10/hub. Cheap!

    If properly maintained you'll get lots of years and miles out of bearings. I would go with a double lipped seal for boat trailers but that is me.
    2022 F350 DRW - Lariat, LBCC, 4x4, 7.3L, 4.30 gears
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  9. #29
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    Eight plus years ago, I had a fifth wheel RV and ended up coming home with a travel trailer. Each year I had my bearings packed. Before a long trip out west, I gave my RV to camping world to pack the bearings. I lost an axle in OK, spent a weekend in a truck stop with my unit on jacks while the axle was being repaired. After the repair, I took the unit to the trailer shop that did the repair and asked them to pull the front axle to check the bearings...they too were in pieces. The most important job on an RV was given to a rookie who over tightened the bearings...resulting in failure on both axles. The rebuild did not last and it was going to take Dexter fourteen weeks to build and ship the axles to Nevada. So..not having 14 weeks and a seven year warranty, a local dealership took my broken unit and I traded it in for a travel trailer. That was an expensive exchange...but they had me and I did not have the time to debate. I also found out that Dexter parts are from China and for the new RV, immediately changed out the bearings and races with Timken USA made. The appearance alone tells you the quality between the two. But yes..keep brand together..bearing and the race it rides in.

  10. #30
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    I'm not sure why some say replacing the races is difficult unless some of the newer designs have the back sides of the race recessed too far. I've always just used a large drift from the back side of the race and tap all the way around till it falls out. (You have to keep a firm pressure on the drift else it will bounce off the race) Then re-seat new races and new seals with appropriate sized sockets or pieces of pipe. I have an old throw out bearing in my tool box that seats the seals perfectly.

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