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  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp
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    Repacking Wheel Bearings

    Im repacking my wheel bearing this weekend, it hasn't been done since ive owned it. anyway I haven't packed wheel bearings on a 5th wheel before and was wondering if there is anything different from a car I might need to be aware of. thanks

  2. #2
    Seasoned Camper Likes to tow's Avatar
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    It's the same thing almost. Get yourself one of those cone shaped packing tools to shove the grease in the bearing. Don't over tighten the nut and don't forget to put in a new cotter pin. Many youtubes on this, it's not hard

  3. #3
    Setting Up Camp
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    thanks, that's kinda what I thought.

  4. #4
    Seasoned Camper Likes to tow's Avatar
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    While you're at it, put in new grease seals.

  5. #5
    Setting Up Camp
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    I already purchased them, pretty reasonable too, $21 for all 4. I will also clean and check the breaks.

  6. #6
    Big Traveler Steve7's Avatar
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    Preload the nut at 50 ft lbs torque, and then back off. Hand tighten and put in cotter pin. If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, loosen only enough to get to the next hole.
    Last edited by Steve7; 08-15-2019 at 09:47 PM.
    Steve & Sue (pups:Sky & Sierra) Gardnerville, Nv
    2017 Refelection 297RSTS
    2017 Ford 350 CC 4x4 Lariat Superduty 6.7, Long Bed

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor Buckskin's Avatar
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    Just finished and lessons learned:
    1. Have new seals on hand, found 10 pky on Amazon for $19 - name brand.
    2. Grease packing tool is a must to get out all old grease out of bearings, wipe old grease from bearing and repack tool and repack bearings. Leave excess new grease on bearings don't wipe off.
    3. 2 cans of brake cleaner, paper towels to catch runoff and clean
    4. Seal pulling tool helpful, found one on Amazon or auto parts stores have them.
    After jacking camper and also using jack stand for safety I repack one wheel at a time. I backed off on brake adjustment to make it easier to remove hub. Sprayed brake cleaner both on brake assembly and inside hub but not in bearing area. I used Lucas X tra heavy duty bearing grease(available at part stores, Walmart & Home Depot) after reading good reviews on it. carefully remove castle nut retaining cage using 2 screw drivers to work it off castle nut - don't bend retaining tabs. Clean all old grease from inside hub and inspected races and bearings and put grease on and around bearing races, light coat of grease on spindle and especially where seal rides on spindle. put inner bearing in with lots of grease on it and installed new seal - used clean wooden block to lay across seal to install. Put in other race with lots of grease, washer, castle nut. Then tighten slightly with channel locks to make sure everything was seated good while spinning drum, then loosened castle nut and hand tighten it - over tightening is far worst than under tightening. When you over tighten you squeeze all grease from between races and bearings and nothing to lubricate between bearings and races. Pumped a little more grease through jerk fitting to make sure there was grease around seal. Some people pump grease until it come out front but I was afraid of blowing out grease seal. Grease is not going to be moving around inside hub assembly, so grease everything good before installing everything. Replace castle nut retaining clip or lock and make sure it is securely locked into place. Make sure hub spins easily and replace hub cap and tapping it flush with drum. I then adjusted brakes so there was slight drag on hub. Replace any bearings and races if they are discolored, pitted or damaged.

    I carry infrared temp gun to check temperature of both hub spindle area and brake drum area when I stop for rest or get gas. You will know if you have problem if temperatures are not about average on 4 wheels.
    Last edited by Buckskin; 08-16-2019 at 03:47 AM.

  8. #8
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    While you're packing those bearings don't forget to carefully inspect the hangers, shackles and springs. We were changing the springs and putting on HD shackles this week (along with bearing repack) and as we took apart one of the shackles there was a break straight across, the bolts is all that was holding it together. The difference between the HD shackles and the OEM are night and day!
    Marcy & Gary
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  9. #9
    Setting Up Camp
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    thanks to all for the advice. good post Buckskin

  10. #10
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhittleBurner View Post
    While you're packing those bearings don't forget to carefully inspect the hangers, shackles and springs. We were changing the springs and putting on HD shackles this week (along with bearing repack) and as we took apart one of the shackles there was a break straight across, the bolts is all that was holding it together. The difference between the HD shackles and the OEM are night and day!
    Would you please give us a link to those heavy duty shackles. thanks

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