A Better TV & Sound Bar Remote IR Receiver.

[traveldawg]

Now I don't have to raise my arm up when using the TV remote to either change the channel on the TV or the volume on the sound bar....

I used this from Amazon.

And I did this....





I used that particular IR Extender because I wanted 2 IR blasters for the TV and 2 for the sound bar. It plugs into the TV's USB port for power or comes with an AC adapter if you prefer to do that. It works great. and now, lazy me, doesn't have to lift an arm to change channels or volume; yep... getting smarter (aka lazier) everyday.

[andrewssteve]

I used that particular IR Extender because I wanted 2 IR blasters for the TV and 2 for the sound bar.

Why 2 each?

[traveldawg]

I originally wanted a blaster that is mounted on an extension that hit both TV and Soundbar simultaneously that I could put in the small recess in front of the front TV well. But it wouldn’t flash the TV sensor enough because it’s sort of recessed above the sound bar. So I chose one with small emitters and since the one I selected had 4 I used all four. Sometimes with just one there is interference or you have to be ultra precise (as in the case if VIP277 Dish sat receivers).

When I do this for folks who put equipment inside a cabinet I use a type with a much larger emitter/blaster instead of multiple small ones.

[andrewssteve]

It plugs into the TV's USB port for power or comes with an AC adapter if you prefer to do that.

So I bought one and here I am in the north woods of Wisconsin trying it out. First I plugged the unit into the TV's USB port. That works fine once you've powered on the TV, but until you do, the USB port is not powered. So if you choose that power option, you need to get line-of-sight to the TV's sensor to power on the TV, and only then can you sit back and control the TV without line-of-sight to the TV's sensor.

What worked better for me was to use the included AC Adapter and plug the blaster unit into the available receptacle that power's the TV (it's behind the TV in the "well.") With this power option, the blaster works to power the TV on without line-of-sight to the TV sensor -- and once the TV is on, the rest of the remote functions don't need line-of-sight either. Cool.

So how did you secure the blaster unit wires. Just tape the wires in place? Staples? Seems that tape would need to be redone periodically.

Thanks.

-Steve

[JColeman]

So how did you secure the blaster unit wires. Just tape the wires in place? Staples? Seems that tape would need to be redone periodically.

Thanks.

-Steve

A small dot of silicone holds well and does not cause damage.

[traveldawg]

Steve,
I thought that would be the case (USB powered only when TV is on). I think when I first turn the TV on I am generally standing so maybe it is hitting the TV and Sound Bar directly.

I used some black RTV Sealant (automotive type silicone) on the wires about every 6 inches for the blasters for the sound bar. It's hard to see the wires because of the angle of the photo showing the transmitters but they run along the front of the TV well from the center to the left side of the well. Also note that the photo of the transmitters is looking down and that instead of seeing down into the TV well you see a black board (looks grey in the photo) between the front of the well and the front bottom of the sound bar. I added that board when I installed the sound bar to eliminate some echo from the sound bar coming from the TV well. So I was able to run the wires along the front edge of the TV well and across the top of that board I installed.

[orbiker]

Thanks for the interesting mod. I add the Infrared Remote Extender System to the buy sometime list.