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  1. #31
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calbar View Post
    This is exactly what I do when I service the bearings.

    Rob
    This is the procedure I've been doing since I was a kid. Everyone that has repacked wheel bearings for years has gone through the same procedure without a second thought. But now ....... with substandard parts, gross negligent service procedures, and cheap or wrong grease used it has become a prone failure spot. If I have to change out a race I use a brass drift to tap it out of the drum. I do not use the nut on the spindle to pull the inner bearing out.
    Brake dust is really nasty stuff and I have seen guys service bearings without cleaning it out of everything. I have even seen them blow it off with air. That is just sloppy and stupid. And who completes the process of repacking wheel bearings but then does not adjust the brakes shoes as the final step, my local RV dealer that's who!

    Just recently I did the all the wheel bearings on a 1972 car with 4 wheel drum brakes. Its an original 25,000 mile survivor and still had all the original factory parts. After cleaning and inspection the bearings were in great shape. There was no way I was going to change out the bearings/races for the cheap crap parts of today just because they are 47 years old. Unfortunately all the wheel brake cylinders and the master cylinder were bad, I had no choice but to change them and all the hoses and lines. The brake fluid had sit in the system way too long.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by FT4NOW View Post
    Not sure what a shop does, but I pull all the hubs, inspect all bearings and races, clean them and hand pack with fresh grease and install new grease seals. I also clean off brake dust, inspect inner hub, brake shoes and magnet, make sure all the brake springs look good.


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Thanks FT4NOW. But that does make me remember another thing that was told to me during our failure.

    When we looked at the debris found under the dust cap there was nothing that looked like a castle nut and cotter pin. I don't remember if GD said this or dexter, but I was told that dexter sometimes uses a press fit something in lieu of the castle nut technology. Has anyone heard of any axle manufacturer doing that? And if that's true, doesn't the maintenance FT4 describes become almost impossible to do?

    Before I hit send I thought of another question. If I have a press fit connection instead of a castle nut, what needs to be replaced to have a standard castle nut set up?

    [edit: I remember seeing threads on the tapered part of the axle. They got buggered up during the failure.]

    Thanks
    Mike
    Last edited by Mikec557; 09-19-2019 at 07:43 AM.

  3. #33
    Fireside Member
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    Does your axles not have the ex lube zerk? If so, I don't understand why you'd need to pull the hubs yearly.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  4. #34
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    The local shop foreman told me not to use the grease zerk on the outside of the hub because too many people put too much in and damage or dislocate the rear seal. Repack every year instead. Don't know if this is correct or not. What are others opinions on this.
    Len and Mary Meier and Mad Max the chi-weenie dog
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  5. #35
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    A bit of controversy on that. Personally, I pull the drums so I can inspect the brakes and magnets. Depending on how many miles I’ve towed determines how often I service the bearings. Few trips = every 2 years.
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  6. #36
    Seasoned Camper jh.xsnrg's Avatar
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    The bearing buddy system I had on a previous boat trailer was spring loaded against the grease so you could tell when you had enough in it without putting stress on the seals. Just pump until the spring starts to compress and be done. This also allowed the grease to still expand when hot without putting pressure on the seal as well. As it was a boat trailer, it also absorbed the cold water shock and contraction, keeping water out. The current boat trailer has a completely sealed heavy oil system that has worked amazingly well. For the zerked ones, if you cannot see how much you have in it in some way, I would probably opt to pull the cap to make sure it was at a good level instead of guessing.
    2019 F350 6.7L PS SRW CCSB Platinum
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  7. #37
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    On using the grease zerk or not.

    To prevent blowing out the rear seal I do the 50 lb torque on the castellated nut, back it off several threads, pump in the grease, and stop when you see it oozing out the front D washer and bearing stop pumping. That way you’re not pressurizing the cavity.

    When you see the oozing, do 50 lbs again back off and finger tight on the nut.

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