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  1. #1
    Seasoned Camper chemist308's Avatar
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    Furnace Parts to have on hand - Full Timer Question

    So I'm looking down the barrel of my second winter in my Reflection 337RLS. I like the insulation, but after as many other appliance problems as I've had (Fridge, Water Heater and now an AC unit) to say that I trust the furnace not to break is a HUGE overstatement.

    So, what furnace parts do you think I should have on hand? For those who have experience heating system failures in cold weather (regardless of who made your rig), what was it that broke?

    Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm just looking to be prepared because I really won't be able to afford a month in a hotel waiting for something to get fixed. That and simply put, if it's 15 degrees outside with no furnace inside, I won't have time to get screwed around by the warranty claim department of whoever made the furnace.
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
    2020 Ram 3500 SRW
    https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7803/4...56f2161a_m.jpg

  2. #2
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    I think - from both reading and personal experience - that the sail switch and limit switch are the two most common failures in RV furnaces.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  3. #3
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    Not only the sail switch and limit switch, but you should find a copy of the service manual and see how to access those parts and ensure you all have all the tools required to replace those two parts including the disassembly and reassembly to access the switches.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2023 Momentum 398M-R
    2023 Ford F-450

    SOLD - 2021 Reflection 311BHS
    SOLD - 2017 Momentum 399TH

  4. #4
    Long Hauler D2Reid's Avatar
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    Been there done that, twice. First furnace outage during winter months was the limiter switch, in the unit I had at the time it was easy to get to and easy to replace. Last year the fan motor went in my 2017 Momentum. Fortunately we were having a warm spell, around 25-27f at night. Above freezing during the day. Messed around with warranty, about a week and got the new motor. Mobile tech busted the plastic fan while trying to put the new motor in. Another week? No, he had a fan from a different unit and put it in.

    Furnace failed again, we bailed on winter skiing and trotted down to the Las Vegas GD rally. GD techs already booked so I got a mobile tech to work on it and ran it through aftermarket warranty company, they paid out $800 to get a new control board and sail switch installed. Ok, that was pricey.

    $800 you can buy a whole new furnace, ok, most of the cost was the technicians professional service.

    So having been through that a couple of times my new philosophy on it is to just buy a new furnace and pay huge overnight fee. Remove old one, slide new on in. It will take me about an hour.

    If you want to keep spare parts around, sail switch, limiter switch, control board, fan motor, squirrel cage, igniter. The switches run 10-15 dollars, fan motor + squirrel cage around $130., igniter around 20. The burners are pretty good quality and tend to last a while. But they too can be susceptible to overheating if debris or too much dust gets on them.

    I thinks it's most excellent that you are thinking about this ahead of time and have a plan. I just reacted both times, spent a couple of chilly nights with electric only heat.
    Dallas
    2017 Momentum 376TH, 2019 Ford F450, Dual Rear Wheel, 4x4, diesel.
    2015 Harley-Davidson Street, XG750

  5. #5
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    There is probably a "Murphy's Law" of some sort that goes something like..... 'whatever part you have on hand will not be the part that fails'

    I had a hot water heater fail (sprung a leak) in Kamloops, Canada once on a Saturday. I was able to find another one in town the same day and just replaced it. And any spare parts I've carried never got/get used. So I don't carry spare parts anymore. oh wait - I think I have a spare tire.

    I do carry extra fuses, an assortment of screws, and some wire & electrical connectors to make some repairs. I also have some basic tools, but I've given up on specific parts for appliances and accessories.
    Last edited by traveldawg; 09-28-2019 at 06:43 PM.
    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  6. #6
    Seasoned Camper Bob/OlallaWA's Avatar
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    D2Reid has the answer, buy a spare furnace slide old out slide new in. Repair old and have as the spare.
    2019 GMC 3500 HD:)
    2016 Reflection 313RLTS:cool:

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    There is probably a "Murphy's Law" of some sort that goes something like..... 'whatever part you have on hand will not be the part that fails'.
    That’s the quote of the week right there!

    We were at Anchors Down last week and surprise, surprise another plumbing leak. Every time we are out we have a leak of some sort. After having this RV for 3+ years, you’d think I’d gotten everything fixed/replaced by now. Nope! This time it was the water pump that was leaking where the front half attaches to the rear half. No problem I say’s, since we’re on city water, don’t need the pump anyways. So I’ll just disconnect both in/out hoses, connect them together and get a new pump at a later date. Now based on my 3+ years of plumbing experiences with this rig, I have a vast assortment of Pex pipe, crimp rings, crimpers, tubing cutters and numerous assorted fittings. Problem was, the supply and discharge hose to/from the pump is the dreaded RV flex hose. Darn near every other piece of this crap hose has been removed by me over the past 3 years except for this. And experience has taught me that you do not use Pex crimp rings with this hose as it will burst. So in my vast storage container of assorted plumbing parts, not one single worm drive clamp but I do have a bag full of them home on the shelf.
    Handy Okay, trip to Lowes to get two clamps. Except all they have are 2” clamps. A little overkill for 1/2” hose. On to a auto parts store to get the right sized (and overpriced) 1/2 clamp.
    1/2 day wasted chasing parts making a repair that should take 2 minutes. Grrr.
    Last edited by minnow101; 09-29-2019 at 01:08 PM.
    2022 Imagine XLS 22MLE
    Sold: 2015 27RL
    2016 Ram 3500 Crewcab Cummins SRW

  8. #8
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob/OlallaWA View Post
    D2Reid has the answer, buy a spare furnace slide old out slide new in. Repair old and have as the spare.
    Hey! The spare furnace was my idea . . . .see post 6 on this earlier thread https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...562#post218562

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper Bob/OlallaWA's Avatar
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    Sorry Didn't read that thread
    2019 GMC 3500 HD:)
    2016 Reflection 313RLTS:cool:

  10. #10
    Rolling Along carnolddsm's Avatar
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    Based upon the parts I install most often the parts I would have:

    All furnaces: circuit board, limit switch and sail switch.

    If I had a Dometic furnace I would also have a thermal breaker switch.

    A couple of suggestions for an emergency:

    A hard rap on a fan motor may dislodge a stuck sail switch. If a sail switch is closed when the furnace tries to start the board will stop the startup and ignition sequence. Sail switches are a common problem on Dometic furnaces.

    For Suburban furnaces check the connections at the limit switch.

    Furnaces with thermal breaker switch: turning off and back on will usually get the furnace going for a while if the breaker is bad. If the thermal breaker trips it is a good idea to look for blocked cold air return or furnace ducting that has come loose - RV furnaces don’t like heating already heated air (open duct) or the restriction of a blocked cold air return.
    Last edited by carnolddsm; 09-29-2019 at 03:26 PM.
    Colan and Marilyn Arnold
    Des Moines, IA - kind of, on the road full time.
    Currently in Durango, Colorado
    Momentum 350M originally, now a 397TH

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