Finish protection necessary?

**Glenn Mittan** · 10-05-2019, 06:35 PM

When we picked up our new 303RLS the dealer pushed very hard to get us to pay thousands for a third party finish protection. My inclination is always to resist dealer add ons. Since the sale it's been in my mind. Will I wind up regretting the decision as my finish fades or peels? It seems like Grand Design should be high enough quality that I don't have to rely on an expensive third party product or risk my finish.
Comments?

**WhittleBurner** · 10-05-2019, 07:05 PM

The dealers must make a tidy profit from selling those protection plans. We walked away from that plan too.
We have replaced 1 decal and they need replacing or removal again. The rest of the finish and decals are doing ok..not worth thousands they're asking

**Bamaman** · 10-05-2019, 07:46 PM

Protection = Profits

You can always use car wax on it. Some of the new finishes are much easier to use than in the past.

Many use Zep floor protector on their RV's.

**Brewhedd** · 10-06-2019, 05:55 AM

Did you say thousands? Wow, you could get it painted for that much and never have to touch it except to wash it. These dealers are con men. Anyway, I have tried many different products over the years and recommend the Blackfire line. Easy on/ off right over decals and lasts for quite awhile, great on vehicles too. I use this for the TT because it cleans the finish also:https://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-Pro...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

After washing with Dawn or Simple Green I use this on vehicles:https://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-Pro...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

As with any polish or wax use a washing agent that is gentle and states "Won't remove wax".

**Wicked ace** · 10-06-2019, 04:02 PM

https://www.poliglowproducts.com/sto...low_Kit.html#/
A good soap & water wash then Poli Prep cleans off about everything. A two coat application of Poli Glow each year keeps fiberglass, decals and window/ door trim looking new. It's a two day , labor intensive process but worth it.

**Dawgfever** · 10-06-2019, 08:44 PM

Brewhedd - I thought Dawn was a no-no because the micro-silica particles in the soap would scratch the finish. That is if Dawn really has such particles. Just something I had read in various forums and have wondered if it is true.

**Aridon** · 10-06-2019, 09:38 PM

Waste of money. Wash it every so often, wax once a year or so and enjoy the feeling of several grand in your pocket. Just about every dealer add on is a waste of money and profit generator for the dealership.

**Wicked ace** · 10-07-2019, 05:01 AM

Originally Posted by Dawgfever

Brewhedd - I thought Dawn was a no-no because the micro-silica particles in the soap would scratch the finish. That is if Dawn really has such particles. Just something I had read in various forums and have wondered if it is true.

Boy that is a new one and an internet falsehood If I ever heard one. Dawn has been the the auto detailers soap of choice for over 20 years that I know. When clay bars came out the suggested preferred liquid medium was Dawn dish soap & water to loosen and carry away dirt. It is an excellent de-greaser. I don't know why but the original formula is preferred. I've been using it for the 20 years on all my vehicles with good results.

**geotex1** · 10-07-2019, 07:54 PM

Original formula is preferred because it contains no fru-fru additives for the protecting and conditioning of the skin on dishwashing hands, which would interfere with the bonding of waxes and sealants. Also some of the varieties use microbeads to deliver scent, which you don't want when trying to achieve finish perfection. I know a little something about these considering one division of my company supplies the industry with many of these additives.

Most of the modern detailing scene dismisses the use of original Dawn because it is not pH-balanced, and what I personally feel is misdirection for marketing to purchase higher end washing products. If you purchased everything some of these companies claim are necessary, every wash, polish, and seal session would be a couple of grand!

If you want to go all out with and really protect your new camper, let me recommend that you use Klasse All-in-One after a through cleaning and drying. Top the Klasse AIO with Klasse Sealant Glaze. Use two coats of SG. Maintain your rig thereafter with a nice balanced pH carwash soap (I like Meguiar's M34) and if you're really detail-oriented, Sonus Acrylic Spritz, which actually contains Klasse. You'll love the ease of which black streaks wash off with now effort and how sap does not stick! Klasse is safe for all surfaces, including decals.

If all this sounds like too much effort for your camper, then you're someone for the ease and effectiveness of Aero's Wash Wax All.

The treatments the dealer's proposition you with are RARELY worth the dollar spent. The best surface sealants out there really are not for gelcoats or vinyl - the "ceramics" and silica complexes - so you're really getting a nano-polymer that's under $100 in material and the bulk of balance in cost is in application labor and funding of some sort of warranty escrow if the company is legit and providing a finish warranty (and none of those legit companies will be an LLC!).