EMS 50 chattering trying ac on generator

**Jims94vmx** · 10-12-2019, 02:02 PM

While doing my experiment overnighting using just inverter and battery, I wanted to see how fast my generator would charge back my battery. After a couple hours I decided I wanted to try the bedroom ac unit. It kicked on and after a few seconds the EMS started to chatter. I quickly turned off the ac.

The generator is a Honda 2800i

Bedroom ac is 13.5

Generator did not have to be reset.....would it be bad to overdue the EMS to see if it would work?

Did have an error code PE4 (tried 2x) 1st one generator was on eco mode.....then tried off eco mode....same result.

**jkwilson** · 10-12-2019, 02:25 PM

What else was running? Figure 1500W for the AC and you have 1000W left for the rest of the RV.

**Jims94vmx** · 10-12-2019, 02:46 PM

Fridge was on electric. Nothing else. Showed 124V on the EMS readout.....

**traveldawg** · 10-12-2019, 04:14 PM

Possible issue with no bonding of neutral and ground lines since you were using a generator? Lots of posts and threads about that on almost any RV forum.

Is the bedroom A/C on line 1 or 2? PE4 is line one low.

Was water heater on AC or gas?

How about the battery charger (converter)? That was likely pulling a lot of power on it's own since it was likely discharged from dry camping. Maybe see what the amp pull is on line 1 and line 2 without the AC. Then I'd start the same A/C unit and see what the amp pull is.

**jkwilson** · 10-12-2019, 06:43 PM

Originally Posted by Jims94vmx

Fridge was on electric. Nothing else. Showed 124V on the EMS readout.....

Converter? Refrigerator is in excess of 300W.

**webpilot** · 10-12-2019, 07:22 PM

When the AC compressor kicks on, it the in rush current can be as high as 50-75 amps. The generator can not supply that kind of current even for a very short time, so the voltage goes low and the EMS kicks, voltage comes up because no load, EMS connects, AC pulls too many amps and ... EMS chatters. Struggled with this for several years. Sometimes the AC would get started and work well, but most times caused excessive chatter on the EMS. I have two Yamaha 2000is and it did not matter if I was running one or both in parallel.

Solution for me was to install a Micro-Air Easy Start Kit. This is a microprocessor controlled devise that limits the in rush current and steps the current to the compressor and cuts the in rush by 50% and greater. Big AC now starts and runs just fine on a single Yamaha 2000is.

My $0.02 worth.
George

**Thunderbucket** · 10-12-2019, 09:55 PM

You probably need to make a ground bonding plug... costs you $10 in parts labour is free...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c2GqbM0JxlM

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**Jims94vmx** · 10-13-2019, 05:44 AM

Converter was definitely still charging.....fridge on electric water heater off.....

Generator has the bonding plug.

I do know about the easy start. Just wanted to see.

Why would it matter if line 1 or line 2?

Thanks for feedback....

**traveldawg** · 10-13-2019, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by Jims94vmx

Converter was definitely still charging.....fridge on electric water heater off.....

Generator has the bonding plug.

I do know about the easy start. Just wanted to see.

Why would it matter if line 1 or line 2?

Thanks for feedback....

ya.... I don't guess it would matter what line 1 or 2 was. I was probably thinking amps on line 1 and line 2 before and after generator start.

I run 2 Honda 2000i's with an Easy Start on my main A/C. Can't remember if I got chatter without the Easy Start.