Winterizing 337RLS

[Hobo Bill]

My only problem winterizing my 337 was developing 30-40 psi air pressure in the system to blow out the waterlines. Nautilus P1 Winterize step #5 - I could not get any air pressure to develop in the system. The air compressor is working fine builds up 30 psi easily - but getting 0 pressure in the system - It was as though I was pumping air into the atmosphere somewhere. Seems to me that setting the levers to the Powerfill position (or modified powerfill position 45 degrees) allows the air to go into the fresh water tank - and it's overflow pipe - which is to atmosphere. It will never develop any pressure that way. I developed air pressure in the "City Water" position however and got to blow out all my faucets. The pumping of the antifreeze with the pump steps 7 to 17 worked fine. The pump primed first thing and sucked up 3 gallons of antifreeze. But does anyone have ideas on why I couldn't get any air pressure to build up in the waterlines with the Powerfill setting ?

[HighFive]

I winterized my 303RLS yesterday and had the same result as you. Putting the handles in the 45 degree position per step 5 will allow air to escape through the fresh water tank vent and you will not build any pressure. After carefully reading each step I realized the instructions which state "this will ensure any trapped water in plumbing harness is removed" is intended to blow out the harness (back of panel) and will also blow out the line to the fresh water tank and the water heater (plug out) only. Nowhere do the instructions tell you to go to each faucet and open the hot and cold to blow out any water in the lines to the faucets and toilet.

If you think about it, it probably isn't necessary to blow out the lines because when you pump antifreeze through the system you will replace any water in the lines anyway. You also open the low point drains and open all faucets which will drain most of the water anyway. Having said that, I went ahead and placed the panel in the city water position, pressurized the system and blew out the lines by opening the faucets and toilet. This includes blowing out the line to the water heater (plug in) which will also pressurize the empty tank. You could put the water heater in bypass if desired since step 5 will blow out the line (plug out). I then performed the steps per the instructions. I think I may skip the extra step of blowing out the lines to the faucets and toilet next year and just follow the instructions.

Step 14 which also has you put the handles in a 45 degree position (except water heater red handle which will still be in bypass) for 10 seconds to put antifreeze through the harness if not already there and the line to the fresh water tank. After completing the process I did momentarily open the fresh water tank drain valve and antifreeze did come out.

BTW, I have a short hose and ball valve on my water heater drain as a mod mentioned in other threads to keep from fooling with the plug several times. I did leave this valve open after completing the winterization. I also replaced the plugs with ball valves on my low point drains so I could open them momentarily when pumping antifreeze through the system until antifreeze flowed out.

[Steven@147]

As much as I hate to think about it I need to familiarize myself with this process for our Solitude. I don't have to do it right away but we just went from the 80s-90s to 40s in one day. They say wind chills tonight maybe in the 30's. One night is not going to be that harmful, I would just run the furnace for a night and keep things above 40 just in case. We hope to continue to go camping through this winter. We were in a drought and last night it rained 4 inches in a couple hours! Last year we had a couple inches of snow south of Austin, it snowed as far south as Houston / Galveston. Who knows what this wacky weather is going to do.

Anyway got to reading the Solitude manual on winterizing, the same steps you're talking about. A lot more steps than our Imagine was and certainly more AZ will be needed than what the Imagine took, maybe 3 or 4 gallons for the Solitude?. I sincerely hope by manipulating the valves as they say in the Solitude manual, it isolates the water heater from AF going into it. /they don't say that it does. I noticed they didn't mention the clothes washer hose connections. I don't know if taking the caps off the lines and opening the hose valve connections to allow air in and thus trapped water to flow down through the lines and out the lower drains will work. Anyway I plan to use a short piece of hose connected to the clothes washer lines, then open the line valves till AZ flows out into a bucket.

[Hobo Bill]

Mine used 3 complete gallons. I had to go buy another gallon to do my traps. There was definitely water right up to the valves for the wash machine hot and cold water connections - which I drained and blew out - I almost forgot about them in the closet - as we don't have a wash machine yet.