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  1. #11
    Rolling Along Houndbb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJMaye View Post
    I have exchanged some PM's with forum member on winterizing using compressed air only, no antifreeze.

    Does anyone else do this?

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    I think those of us who experience sub zero temps in winter, sometimes for weeks at a time as a regular winter occurrence will always rely on the RV antifreeze. In the spring of 2015, we had almost a month where daytime temps hovered around zero. Our yard was devastated by deer, and we had one die, huddled next to our foundation, trying to keep warm. Additionally, even though we own a couple of compressors, I wouldn’t even begin to understand how to hook them up to the plumbing to blow out any remnants of moisture. (And then, would I trust it?)

    You’re in a part of the country where you might be able to get by with just blowing out the lines, so really, it’s personal preference. I just know that pumping antifreeze on a cold January or February day is not something I’d want to do. I’ll take a sunny October day and be done, every time.
    N
    Bruce and Nancy
    2018 Imagine 2150rb
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  2. #12
    Commercial Member huntr70's Avatar
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    Compressed air will only get so much water out. There will still be some residual and it will settle at a joint or connection.

    When it freezes, it can crack the fitting.

    Do as you like, but RV antifreeze is a cheap insurance policy.
    Steve- Inventory Manager at Tom Schaeffer's RV, Shoemakersville, PA www.tomschaeffers.com
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    2011 RAM 3500 SRW Outdoorsman Edition 4X4, 6.7 Cummins--TWEAKED!
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  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper Buckaroo's Avatar
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    I did my first winterization a couple of days ago and blew out the system with air at 40 psi using a 30 gal compressor so I had plenty or air. First drained the system using low point ports, then blew the hot lines followed by the cold. System sputtered for 5 minutes or more with relatively large amounts of water continuing to come out as I cycled the hot/cold valves on the fixtures. I know I got a fair amount of water out but unsure how much remained. I continued on in the process and filled the system using RV anti-freeze. I am interested in how you know that you have evacuated the system sufficiently with just compressed air. I would love to only use the anti-freeze in the p-traps.
    Buckaroo
    2020 Imagine 2670MK
    2017 Tundra DC 4WD TRD

  4. #14
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Like Hunter said, RV antifreeze is cheap insurance. We used to blow the lines out then add antifreeze to protect the fixtures . Either way in the spring you have to sanitize the system and the extra step of antifreeze takes very little time.
    (now we just head south before things start to freeze )
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
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    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
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  5. #15
    Site Sponsor
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    I have a long procedure to winterize. Basically I clean the black tank and blow the lines out. Then drain the tanks and pump in antifreeze. At this point I blow the lines again, add antifreeze to the traps, open the low point drains, and dump the holding tanks one last time. RV antifreeze is cheap insurance.
    2019 F-250 Supercab
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  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper Rovers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJMaye View Post
    A couple other winterization questions-

    Holding Tanks- After the last trip I added a few gallons of water to the black tank via the black tank rinse. I normally do that so there is always a little water there to help break down anything that may have not washed out during the dump. Will it be safe to just add RV antifreeze via the toilet to avoid freezing?

    Connection center switch- There is a blue switch / valve between city water and fresh tank fill. The selling dealer said it was for filling the fresh water tank or I could use the one on the outside of the trailer. I have never used this valve. When I did fill the fresh water tank I used the one on the side of the camper. What is this valve used for other than filling the fresh water tank? Seems like the one on the side of the camper is convenient enough. Not sure I understand the point of having both. What exactly is this valve for and does it have anything to do with winterization?
    Attachment 23324

    Blowout plug- I used compressed air to blow out remaining water from all points; low points, water heater, all faucets, outside spray ports. I set the compressor outlet pressure to 20psi to be safe. Is there any value to using a higher pressure like GD recommends in videos- ~50psi.
    I understand the confusion with two fresh water fill ports. Seems kinda redundant - and that's actually the reason I like it. At campgrounds without water at the campsites (most state parks, for instance) I like to run the camp's water through a filter. I have our filter set up on the wall area just to the right of the valves your picture so the filter isn't outside the trailer. When filling I simply attach the hose to the bottom of the filter, turn the valve to "Fresh Tank Fill" and turn on the the spigot. The tank is filled with filtered water and we're off to the campsite.

    If I wanted to fill up from the curbside fill I'd have to connect the filter inline between the campground hose and the trailer - the system I use ensures I don't have to do that. And by the way I'm not the originator of this idea - I 'borrowed' the idea from another member here who posted pics of the filter and hose layout. I'd take pics of our trailer but sadly it has been put to bed for the winter.

    Bob
    2019 Imagine 2400BH
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  7. #17
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJMaye View Post
    I have exchanged some PM's with forum member on winterizing using compressed air only, no antifreeze.

    Does anyone else do this?

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    I'm wondering this also. Maybe it depends on what model you own and how it is plumbed. I live in an area of the country where we may only have freezing temps a few nights a year. With that said, I know it only takes one time to do damage.

    On all of my previous trailers I've just blown the lines out and put antifreeze in the P traps. Never a problem.

    With the Nautilus system, and a new trailer, I'm a little concerned about not using antifreeze in the lines.

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper Bob/OlallaWA's Avatar
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    Just be sure to take care of the line from the tank to the fresh water pump. I use the antifreeze to push the water out and not use air at all. I do open the low point drains to start with and close them before running the antifreeze.
    2019 GMC 3500 HD:)
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  9. #19
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
    Yes...this is what happened. I also drained using low point ports and found that it drained the hot water heater. Buckaroo
    Low point also drained my water heater on my 2020 2670MK. IHO I think this is the way they should all be plumbed. I always drain all the water when traveling.

  10. #20
    Setting Up Camp
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    I blow my lines dry then use RV antifreeze. We have two outdoor outlets, one is a "shower", the other is just cold for washing. I make sure to get those, too. I do not put anti-freeze in the water heater, I drain it and leave the drain plug out, but do put a cotton call in the threads to keep bugs out. Our winter temps can get to -40 and I'm not taking any chances of having water left somewhere. $3.00 per gallon of anti-freeze and 3 gallons is fairly cheap insurance, to me.
    2018 Reflection 307MKS
    2017 F-250 King Ranch

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