Frozen?

[fredandfred]

Fred & Fred,

You might try to let the water drip in the kitchen and bath to keep the water moving. This does help and I use this method often with no issues. Good luck.

Thought of doing that. I'd just have to turn the water heater off. I'm just agitated that I was never told I needed to skirt this beast.

[thompsons 369rl]

Thought of doing that. I'd just have to turn the water heater off. I'm just agitated that I was never told I needed to skirt this beast.

Not sure why you would need to shut down the water heater. We've never been in 8 degree weather with our rig but we have recently (and in the past) been in the teens and with the cold water drip (drain valves open just to make sure we don't over fill the tanks), we didn't have any problems. Seriously, I doubt there are many RV's out there that can handle 8 degrees without doing anything special to prevent freezing.

[Scott and Jan]

Thats all we do when we camp in the mountains every Christmas. Leave one cold water faucet barely running with drain open as suggested. Never had a problem. This also keeps the water supply hose from freezing.

[Ditkitty]

We put a little space heater behind the access panel in the basement, and turn it on when we go to bed. that seemed to work for a couple of single-digit nights in a row. We also had the tank heaters on, and set the thermostat at around 40, so the furnace did come on a few times during the night.

[fredandfred]

I meant turn the water heater off since it was the hot water line that froze. With a sealed bottom and heat ducts to keep stuff warm having a line freeze just was a pain.

[TucsonJim]

BTW, if you ever use a hair dryer or other heating device to warm PEX pipe, do not exceed 200F. Exceeding 200F will exceed the operating temperature of PEX pipe and could weaken or damage it.

[fredandfred]

BTW, if you ever use a hair dryer or other heating device to warm PEX pipe, do not exceed 200F. Exceeding 200F will exceed the operating temperature of PEX pipe and could weaken or damage it.

Good to know. Thanks.

[fredandfred]

We put a little space heater behind the access panel in the basement, and turn it on when we go to bed. that seemed to work for a couple of single-digit nights in a row. We also had the tank heaters on, and set the thermostat at around 40, so the furnace did come on a few times during the night.

I'm not real sure where that panel is and what does it gain access to?

[Dave and Monica]

In your pass-through storage area or basement, there'll be removal panels to access the utility area where the water pump, furnace, water heater, etc are located. Some people also use 100W incandescent lights to provide heat in that area.

Dave

[Lingerlonger]

Regarding Installation of Skirting.......

I don't see any reason you would have to drill holes in your RV. I have never had to skirt one, but this is how I'd try to do it:
Put some p/t 4x4 posts or landscapes ties on the ground. Use some 2x4 lumber for the top. You may need some 1x or 2x framing for the vertical braces. Get some plywood or vinyl siding/soffit and cut in lengths to fit the opening under the RV. Frame it up and then position it around the RV. You can tack some foam or even fiberglass insulation to the back of the plywood/vinyl. Piece it all together and try to seal it all around. I don't think you need (or want) it to totally airtight. You could do all that for just a few hundred bucks and 2-3 hours, I would think. (I believe you said in an earlier post that you were permanently parked at a site.)

I have a relative who works on pipelines up north. He lives in a Toy Hauler RV. When he changes job locations, he just breaks down his skirting and takes it to the new site and reinstalls.

Just Google "rv skirting" and you'll see plenty of ideas, how-to's, and even some companies who sell custom fit skirting.