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  1. #11
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    Reference "klenger's" web site here:
    http://nebula.wsimg.com/2587fab8290d...&alloworigin=1

    This is what I worked from. See sheet 8 for the water pump circuit I copied. Pay particular attention to the small lines indicating his some of his jumper blocks are tied to each other. He (and I) used the "Load" 12v to power the indicator lamp so it was only on when the pump was enabled.

    klenger use to be on this site but I think he bought a different RV; I haven't 'seen' him in a while.

    He had these really great schematics!!
    Larry KE4DMG
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerscol View Post
    Just so my gray cells understand. While the wiring diagram is easy to understand it appears that if you used lighted switches (like GD has) only the switch that is turned on will light up and the others will stay dark??? Right now both GD switched will light up (Inside panel and outside Nautilus panel) to keep you informed that you have turned the pump on at one of the locations.

    By using the controller you loose that feature - correct?

    Also thanks for posting the wiring diagram.
    If you replace the illuminated switches with momentary switches you can still use the led on the monitor panel. I believe that TravelDawg added LEDs next to the switches in the bathroom and the Nautilus panel. So if you turn on the pump from any switch all three LEDs are lit. Turn the pump off and all three LEDS go dark. The LEDs are wired to the controller but separately from the switches instead of how a typical indicator light is used with a switch. I have tried to find a momentary switch with an independent LED (not directly dependent on the switch being on or off) as part of the switch but have had no luck.

    Technically you can keep the existing switches and use them like a momentary switch. Turn on and off quickly to engage the controller but the lights would only come on briefly while in the on position and would be off even if the pump was on. The only exception is that you could run wiring from the LED in the monitor panel to the controller and it would tell you whether the pump has power or not.

    I hope that I have helped rather than confused you more.

    John

  3. #13
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    This is what I worked from. See sheet 8 for the water pump circuit I copied. Pay particular attention to the small lines indicating his some of his jumper blocks are tied to each other. He (and I) used the "Load" 12v to power the indicator lamp so it was only on when the pump was enabled.
    Larry, why did you do this work? In case something bursts a leak while you're asleep the pump won't pump water out? Or because you feel the pump draws too much power when it's not pumping? If the latter, how much power does it draw in its idle state?

    Thanks.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  4. #14
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    Mark,
    I wanted a water pump switch in the bathroom. I forget most of the time to switch in on before going in there. Especially at night but even during the day after walking right by the main panel.

    I'm a bit paranoid about water. It has been my source of numerous house repairs even after taking care of everything that can be taken care of. Pipes would leak or burst during storms or cold weather, washers would over flow, roof leaks would appear, etc.

    And my geekiness drives me to doing things that sometimes might not even be necessary.

    Anyway - mostly because my last RV had a switch in the bathroom and I got use to it I suppose. It didn't have anything related to amps or anything like that.

    For a similar reason I put a city water cut off valve in the wet bay. We always turned out our water off when we leave the RV for the day (well.... almost always - forgetfulness extended to this task too). And when we returned to the RV inevitably I'd forget to turn the water back on outside and have to out in the dark (and sometimes in my skivvies) because, again, I forgot to turn it on.

    I ran a separate 12v feed to the pump to stop the main living area lights from flickering when the pump ran.

    Hope this help... Let me know if I confused something even more than usual.
    Larry KE4DMG
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  5. #15
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    Let me know if I confused something even more than usual.
    Nope. I'm easily confused and you didn't confuse me.

    I don't turn the pump on and off when needed. I turn it on when we're setting up a dry-camp, let the pump with its pressure sensor automatically pump and stop pumping as needed for days while we're staying there, and turn off the pump when we're breaking camp days later.

    If some bit of plumbing blew up (under the modest pressure of the pump) while we were asleep then the pump would happily pump all our fresh water into the basement, but otherwise I don't see a risk in leaving it turned on when we are in the trailer.

    On the other hand, having a switch to play with while on the toilet, especially one that lights up... hmm... now THAT'S a benefit!

    Thanks Larry.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  6. #16
    Site Sponsor andrewssteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post

    On the other hand, having a switch to play with while on the toilet, especially one that lights up... hmm... now THAT'S a benefit!
    That's just not right.
    Steve and Renee
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  7. #17
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    Following up on my post #10 this is a lot of work just to run the pump from the bathroom. I am planning to run a momentary switch to power the pump only when pushed to get a little water to the bath in the middle of the night, (wash hands, flush) It would provide 12V to the positive side of the pump when pushed, when the other stock pump switches are off.

    Something like this https://www.strobesnmore.com/Univers...CABEgJUbvD_BwE
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  8. #18
    Big Traveler Txfivver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    On the other hand, having a switch to play with while on the toilet, especially one that lights up... hmm... now THAT'S a benefit!

    Thanks Larry.
    LOL now that's funny right there. I usually use a car magazine for that activity but a lighted switch to flip on and off would be so much better!
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txfivver View Post
    LOL now that's funny right there. I usually use a car magazine for that activity but a lighted switch to flip on and off would be so much better!
    Brings back memories of a Airport movie - Alpha Beta Base - and all the blinking switches, lights, and Knobs
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  10. #20
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    I finally got around to completing my bathroom switch mod (for now). I have a 320G that came with two 3-way switches for the water pump. One switch was located in the central panel area and the other switch was located on the Nautilus panel in the basement. I originally just wanted to add a switch in the bathroom. I used the same Intellitec controller as shown in the OP's post. I mounted it and a couple of terminal strips to a piece of particle board and located the assembly in the basement on the floor. The original switches were replace with momentary (ON) switches and wires were run from them to the controller. I added a momentary switch and LED light assembly on the side of the vanity in the bathroom and ran wires again to the controller. Here is a picture of that installation and the switch and LED are slightly different than the OP's.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then I thought while I was at it I would add another switch/light to the front of the cabinet where the kitchen sink is located. It looks identical to the bathroom setup. And as long as I had gone that far. I mounted a round LED (automotive style) above the switch in the Nautilus panel and a relay behind the master control panel to provide +12V to the water pump light in the control panel. It had never worked before because GD had cut the wire short. (I guess it was too hard for them to figure out how to make it work on a 3-way switch. )

    So the way the system works is that if the pump is off then depressing any switch will make the pump turn on AND all of the LEDs will light up indicating that the pump is ON. The pump can be turned off from any switch and all of the LEDs will go out. No more guessing. I originally said that I am done for now because I would eventually like to add a fifth switch in the half bath located in the garage area but I don't think I am ready for the level of disassembly necessary to run those wires.

    I am currently reorganizing the basement walls to get some more room in there but that is a different project.
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