Freezing temperatures question

[BB&LAB]

I've seen folks say this. Why would you need to do that if you drain all holding tanks and leave the gate valve open? If water gets trapped inside the tank or large drain pipes it has plenty of room to expand and no damage should occur.

I suspect that may be the case, however IMHO I would rather keep the valves closed and err on the side of caution and add a small amount of RV antifreeze.

[etxranch]

I suspect that may be the case, however IMHO I would rather keep the valves closed and err on the side of caution and add a small amount of RV antifreeze.

After lots suggestions from everyone. I think there are two options:

1- Blow out all water and add antifreeze, this method would require a few steps to complete, might take a beginner one hour but is a safe bet.

2- Drain all tanks and open all valves. Turn on furnace to 45 or use a electric heater. This method is probably easier but not as safe as 1.

Would love to hear other suggestions.

[geotex1]

3. Park in a big, temperature controlled, enclosed storage! This is what I will be building here in the mountains in the next year or two...

Blowing out with air is not a must. It's really done to minimize the quantity of antifreeze. You can simply pump more antifreeze to displace all the water and just make sure what finally comes out of the faucet is as pink as fresh in the container. This will be faster and easier, and at best will cost you an extra gallon or two. This time of year you can find Ace Hardware selling RV antifreeze 2 for $6. Also, many folks don't have the right compressor for the job anyway... 40psi is easy, maintaining sufficient volume flow of air to be effective isn't possible with a tiny pancake compressor! I often unwinterize and rewinterize on the road, and you better believe I'm not carrying my monster shop compressor with us!

My best advice, choose the method that lets you sleep at night and fits the level of effort you want to expend. However, doing nothing is not a wise option as your water pump and toilet flush valve are both the least forgiving to freeze and definitely will cost you more than antifreeze would to replace!

[SolarPoweredRV]

Here in Florida we face a similar situation, a few freezing nights, but nothing too cold or long term.

What I have decided to do is blow out the lines with air, it only takes a little bit of effort. Additionally, I watch the weather and will turn on the furnace to low if a freeze is predicted.

With the Solitude, all your plumbing is in your heated space, so this year I will probably only run the furnace.

[Pat Clark]

I certainly would. Why take the risk.

[perrien]

I live in central TX. We have covered (not enclosed) storage with 120AC hookup for battery and low power stuff if needed. We may go out 1-2 times a month, even over winter months so doing the antifreeze routine if we're going out next week seemed a bit much. Since we typically only get to freezing for a few hours overnight and above freezing during the day, I've just been turning on the water heater and set the thermostat to heat at about 40-45 degrees. I also haven't been blowing out the lines (don't have an air compressor that I can do that with). If you have a compressor, blowing out the lines and setting the heater will probably be enough. This obviously uses the propane but it's so much easier than flushing the antifreeze out of the lines every other week.

[vonzoog]

I made be wrong, but I don’t think anything mention the “P” traps in each and every drain you have. Doesn’t matter if you antifreeze or use the compress air method. You still need to put antifreeze in the “P” traps.

[etxranch]

I made be wrong, but I don’t think anything mention the “P” traps in each and every drain you have. Doesn’t matter if you antifreeze or use the compress air method. You still need to put antifreeze in the “P” traps.

I have heard this as well. Can someone confirm my understanding ? - by using an air compressor blowing all the water out of all the lines which eliminated the freezing problem in the lines.

However, there is still water left in the P traps even if we empty out the tanks. So we need to pour antifreeze down the sink and toilet drains for the P straps. This way we don't need to turn on the furnace, correct?

[SolarPoweredRV]

I have heard this as well. Can someone confirm my understanding ? - by using an air compressor blowing all the water out of all the lines which eliminated the freezing problem in the lines.

However, there is still water left in the P traps even if we empty out the tanks. So we need to pour antifreeze down the sink and toilet drains for the P straps. This way we don't need to turn on the furnace, correct?

You are correct, in that you do need to use antifreeze in the "P" traps, however, the toilet does not have a "P" trap (it has a pee trap :-) ). The toilet is direct flow into the tank.

If you use your heater, and your "P" traps are not exposed to the exterior, you can forego the antifreeze in the "P" traps because the heat will also keep them from freezing.

[Mrhavasu]

I also get into the 20 degree range and I drain the low points and open all faucets. I run the water pump and more water actually comes out.
Then I set the stat for the heater at the lowest which on mine is 40. I do burn some propane but I dont want anything else in the coach to freeze
either. Last few years and all is good.