Truck flexure problem? Anderson Ultimate and F350 SRW

**geotex1** · 11-13-2019, 07:49 AM

All,

I'm asking this question here for camping friends of Nikki and I. 2019 F350 SRW towing a big 2018 Cardinal Luxury. Our friends have been planning to go full time in 2020 and bought the new TV in August. They decided to go with the Anderson Ultimate 5th wheel hitch for this truck and have a problem. They made a trip out to Arizona and back, and discovered that the base plates of the Anderson have creased the bed of their new truck! They have the Ford factory 5th wheel tow prep.

Ford blames the hitch design. Anderson says it's user error with installation. The latter is HIGHLY doubtful as Eric was a career aircraft mechanic and even has built and flies his own experimental plane!

I am wondering if any users here have experienced similar or know any campers who have? I would try to connect them if so because it may push to real answers.

Two theories we have going:

1) I suspect they encountered a challenging campsite along the way, and experienced what I describe as the bottle opener effect with a long lever prying over a fixed fulcrum.

2) There's too much flexure in the design of the new truck.

No. 1 is mine because it's a clear crease with no evidence of repetition - no rubbed/grated paint or typical signs of metal fatigue. Also looked like the bed is still straight bolt to frame too so it goes where the frame goes. There's clearly some air gap between the cross bar for the factory ball mount and bed floor. I didn't see anything suggesting the Anderson bent, but advised I wouldn't tow with it again until a conclusion was drawn.

They don't think they had any sites that were that challenging, but conceded their comparison was based on the prior decade towing with a standard 5er hitch.

Obviously, they're really upset with the damage to the new truck, and that's going to be a sore spot. However, it could be obscured with a bed mat or BedRug as a DIY. The real issue seems no one wants to help them get to the root cause and just point the finger elsewhere...

If it were my setup, I think I would document every detail with pictures, video, etc., and keep pushing for answers and to, at very least, get reimbursed the cost of the Anderson. However, in the meantime swap out and go back to a traditional 5er hitch, or consider a Goosebox (since I'm a convert) and stay to course of getting out full-time.

**jkwilson** · 11-13-2019, 11:33 AM

One thing some AUH users do wrong is torquing the bolt before the weight of the trailer is on it. My thought is doing it wrong could lead to some movement.

Many if not most AUH users place a heavy rubber mat like https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...n?cm_vc=-10005 under the hitch. I added that to mine after the first tow left marks in the factory bedliner, though the marks went away after sitting in the sun.

**backtrack2015** · 11-13-2019, 01:21 PM

Where are the creases? e.g., leading edge toward cab, trailing edge toward tailgate, sides, all the way around? That info might help with the brainstorming here.

I'll be much more likely to get on the AUH train when they have a unit that directly attaches to and is supported by the Ford pucks. I know people don't typically have trouble with the AUH, but I'm just not quite a fan of using the aluminum truck bed as a means of support.

**geotex1** · 11-13-2019, 02:10 PM

Thanks for responses.

For the requested clarity, creased along the forward plate nearest the cab. Slightly deeper passenger side corner, but not to naked eye - only by true straight edge and feeler gauges.

**Canyonlight** · 11-13-2019, 02:25 PM

I recall a number of posts over the years on the forum where folks have expressed concern about box denting when using the Andersen (AUH.) Many of these folks have placed a hard rubber bed mat or similar on the bed to help. If you do some searching on Andersen or AUH and key words you will find some of these threads I suspect.

Hopefully some folks using the AUH can chime in as well.

Dan

**BB&LAB** · 11-13-2019, 02:34 PM

Originally Posted by jkwilson

One thing some AUH users do wrong is torquing the bolt before the weight of the trailer is on it. My thought is doing it wrong could lead to some movement.

Many if not most AUH users place a heavy rubber mat like https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...n?cm_vc=-10005 under the hitch. I added that to mine after the first tow left marks in the factory bedliner, though the marks went away after sitting in the sun.

Interesting comment since Anderson in their instructions do not indicate that the torque points should be done after the weight of the trailer is brought to bear, nor does it make sense from an engineering or practical perspective. I installed our AUH as directed in Anderson's install instructions and with 5,500 plus miles we have no issues in towing or in my truck bed. But you make a good point that torquing incorrectly could lead to some movement, with potential adverse results.

**backtrack2015** · 11-13-2019, 02:49 PM

I wonder if it was the “lever/fulcrum” theory but during a braking event. That might contribute to a leading-edge crease.

**Migizi** · 11-13-2019, 06:03 PM

I have the AUH and follow the factory instructions as shown below with no problems:

Andersen Ultimate Hitch - We like to see the hitch at 50 ft-lbs torque as eventually the bolt could be stripped out. The only time we change the torque is if someone is having an issue with the base of the hitch rotating in the bed of the truck slightly or if they have certain bed liners.
If someone needs alternative solution we suggest they do the following instead of the 50 ft/lbs
1 - Pin and clip the hitch to gooseneck ball
2 - Tighten top bolt to 60 ft- lbs instead of 50
3 - Do NOT tighten the lower two jamb bolts yet
4 - Put the weight of the trailer on the hitch and latch the hitch to the elevated ball on the base.
5 - Re-Tighten the top bolt to 60 ft-lbs to remove any flex the bed or bedliner of the truck may have.
6 - Tighten the lower 2 jamb bolts to 40 ft-lbs and you are ready to tow safely.

As shown above, the alternate instructions are to put the weight of the trailer on the hitch before torqueing the hitch bolts.

I've not had any problems with the AUH making any marks or damages to the truck bed in my Chevy Silverado, but I have the factory bed coating and its holding up nicely.

Good luck with your dilemma...

**geotex1** · 11-13-2019, 08:06 PM

Thank for the input all. I personally read the instructions from Anderson, and the revision was dated October 2018. 60 ft-lbs is the called for torque, and that is specified at unloaded installation along with ~40 ft-lbs on the side bolts. Anderson does say to check the torque when connected and during the trip. I called Eric and asked him his process. He indicated he checked the torque before hitching the Cardinal and again after full weight was on the hitch. At about 150 miles into the trip when he stopped to re-torque lugnuts since he had done a bearing service and checked the Anderson and said it needed nothing. After that, he said checking torque was either each re-hitch or once per travel day when if they just spent a night coupled. His comment was maybe a maximum of 9 degrees of rotation before clicking, and he has all of his wrenches checked for calibration yearly.
@backtrack2015 you made a good point, and in speaking with Eric he said they did have a hard, fast braking event when a lane-changer caused an accident in front of them. Hmm...

**Wicked ace** · 12-01-2019, 05:30 AM

Here is one for the forensic investigators. You say the truck has factory tow prep, what does it entail? Ford likes to please the consumer and offer differing levels of tow packages gets confusing. I have both max tow package and heavy duty payload in my F150 to get the highest payload and tow capability I can. There are several different AHU models. One that uses the factory puck system to anchor to the bed. The most used that I see, attaches to a gooseneck hitch mounted to the frame under the bed, usually aftermarket. I use a Curt Double Lock turn over ball. B&W Turn Over ball hitch is also popular for this application. Both need to have the lock pins set to keep the ball in place. If neglected, I could see it holding in forward / aft motion but the ball lifting out of it's socket over bumps or uneven ground. Also it would be easy to miss even when torquing the AHU unit to the ball. The popularity of the AHU is not only how easily it can be installed / removed but that the truck bed is left open for other duty. Most would take the goose neck and flip it over to clear the bed.
Another point to ponder is how the hitch is attached to the frame. My hitch has 4 bolts on the frame bracket that are torqued quite high and needed to be torqued again after my first trip. Then there are another 12 bolts attaching the hitch to the frame brackets that have torque requirements. My point being you need to look beyond your Andersen hitch as a scapegoat, there may be other factors.