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  1. #1
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    Solitude 310GK-G wiring issues

    I recently purchased a used 2018 SOLITUDE 310GK-G and drove it home (600 miles) with no issues. Once home, I spent the next couple days, cleaning and stocking it. Everything worked as it should. The next day I added a backup camera (plug and play). I noticed the backup camera was ALWAYS powered up. Checking online, I found that everyone has that issue, and many repowered the camera from the clearance lights. The following day, I discovered that NONE of my slide lights worked. Checking the fuse box revealed that the fuse for rear cabin lights was blown. After removing the camera, I still blow the fuse. I MADE NO OTHER CHANGES! The factory suggests that I begin checking my wiring runs, which could be problematic, since every unit is different. Has anyone had this problem??? If so, can you please advise me where the issue was?

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    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I recently purchased a used 2018 SOLITUDE 310GK-G and drove it home (600 miles) with no issues. Once home, I spent the next couple days, cleaning and stocking it. Everything worked as it should. The next day I added a backup camera (plug and play). I noticed the backup camera was ALWAYS powered up. Checking online, I found that everyone has that issue, and many repowered the camera from the clearance lights. The following day, I discovered that NONE of my slide lights worked. Checking the fuse box revealed that the fuse for rear cabin lights was blown. After removing the camera, I still blow the fuse. I MADE NO OTHER CHANGES! The factory suggests that I begin checking my wiring runs, which could be problematic, since every unit is different. Has anyone had this problem??? If so, can you please advise me where the issue was?
    This thread was for a 2016 300GK blowing the fuse.
    DC Electric problem-Rear Lights Fuse-2016 300GK https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...l=1#post249568
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  3. #3
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    If your camera was always on then it means the power source was not for the marker lights as they would only be on only when you turn on the tow vehicle lights when connected to a tow vehicle. So, where does the power for your lights come from? Possibly from the vent fan power for the bathroom and kitchen ceiling fans (like mine are). Therefore, the circuit for the slide lights is not likely associated with the camera. But I don’t know if the fan power is the same as a light circuit.

    Was the camera power on with a blown slide light fuse? If so then certainly camera power is different from slide lights. If the camera also lost power then certainly the camera power is sourced from the same place as the slide lights.

    If camera power is from the slide light circuit then, following the rule - the last thing you messed with is likely the source of your trouble, - is in order here. I’d start with inspecting the power connector for the camera and maybe the pigtail for that connector.
    Larry KE4DMG
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    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
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  4. #4
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    I guess I wasn’t exactly clear ... sorry!

    When I bought the unit everything worked. Same when I got home. I hooked up to my 50 amp RV BREAKER and everything worked fine for two days.

    The next day I plugged the “plug and play” camera into the “backup camera prep wire”. I noticed that it was always “hot”, even though it was not connected to my truck. There was no way to turn it off. (Upon reading various posts, I discovered that’s a common complaint; and various people suggested rewriting the camera wire to connect to one of the clearance lights. In doing so, the camera only works when your truck lights are on.)

    At this point, I discovered that I had a blown fuse, and trying to replace the fuse only resulted in more blown fuses. Thinking that the ONLY thing that had changed was that I had installed the camera ... I unplugged the camera. NO CHANGE ... still blows fuses.

    The fuse that blows is the one that protects the lights in the slides. (I haven’t touched anything in the slides. The lights worked ... and then they didn’t. 🙂

  5. #5
    Fireside Member bigjaike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I recently purchased a used 2018 SOLITUDE 310GK-G and drove it home (600 miles) with no issues. Once home, I spent the next couple days, cleaning and stocking it. Everything worked as it should. The next day I added a backup camera (plug and play). I noticed the backup camera was ALWAYS powered up. Checking online, I found that everyone has that issue, and many repowered the camera from the clearance lights. The following day, I discovered that NONE of my slide lights worked. Checking the fuse box revealed that the fuse for rear cabin lights was blown. After removing the camera, I still blow the fuse. I MADE NO OTHER CHANGES! The factory suggests that I begin checking my wiring runs, which could be problematic, since every unit is different. Has anyone had this problem??? If so, can you please advise me where the issue was?
    Did you open or close the slides before the light quit working. You may want to look under the slides and make sure the wires on the extender did come loose or get smashed.
    Monty and Nena, with our 4 legged friend Allie

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  6. #6
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I guess I wasn’t exactly clear ... sorry! When I bought the unit everything worked. Same when I got home. I hooked up to my 50 amp RV BREAKER and everything worked fine for two days. The next day I plugged the “plug and play” camera into the “backup camera prep wire”. I noticed that it was always “hot”, even though it was not connected to my truck. There was no way to turn it off. (Upon reading various posts, I discovered that’s a common complaint; and various people suggested rewriting the camera wire to connect to one of the clearance lights. In doing so, the camera only works when your truck lights are on.) At this point, I discovered that I had a blown fuse, and trying to replace the fuse only resulted in more blown fuses. Thinking that the ONLY thing that had changed was that I had installed the camera ... I unplugged the camera. NO CHANGE ... still blows fuses. The fuse that blows is the one that protects the lights in the slides. (I haven’t touched anything in the slides. The lights worked ... and then they didn’t. 
    Hi, welcome to the forum.

    It's not exactly clear whether you took the advice you found here and re-wired your camera to run off the marker lights. After your post above I'm guessing that you did not; did you? It's also not clear if - as @traveldawg asked above - your camera continued to work when the fuse was blown.

    Despite these uncertainties it sounds likely that the problem is behind your camera mount. On our trailer I found that our non-working camera mount was due to it not being connected to any power... the factory tech had likely broken the connection when pushing it back into the wall. It was a ragged mess too... probably a poor connection to begin with. So as traveldawg has suggested go back to the scene of the crime, gently pull out as much of the wiring there as you can, and see if you can find broken or badly-connected wire(s) that is/are shorting that circuit.

    Good luck.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  7. #7
    Fireside Member 1st Cav Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    Hi, welcome to the forum.

    It's not exactly clear whether you took the advice you found here and re-wired your camera to run off the marker lights. After your post above I'm guessing that you did not; did you? It's also not clear if - as @traveldawg asked above - your camera continued to work when the fuse was blown.

    I can remember conversations on this Forum talking about Backup Camera's being powered by the Btry, and it being another source that can run down your Btry when disconnected from tow vehicle. When we got our Backup Camera installed during our PDI at our dealer pickup, the Techs installing the Camera reminded me of this fact. Sure enough, that is a true fact, as that is another reason I disconnect our negative lead to the Btry when we take our 2018 310 GK to our storage unit. The camera is always on when it is installed, even if your cabin display isn't plugged in. You can check it in the rear of your RV, and see it is lighted.
    I agree with, "boycott." There probably is a problem with the wiring at the camera.


    Despite these uncertainties it sounds likely that the problem is behind your camera mount. On our trailer I found that our non-working camera mount was due to it not being connected to any power... the factory tech had likely broken the connection when pushing it back into the wall. It was a ragged mess too... probably a poor connection to begin with. So as traveldawg has suggested go back to the scene of the crime, gently pull out as much of the wiring there as you can, and see if you can find broken or badly-connected wire(s) that is/are shorting that circuit.

    Good luck.
    I can remember conversations on this Forum talking about Backup Camera's being powered by the Btry, and it being another source that can run down your Btry when disconnected from tow vehicle. When we got our Backup Camera installed during our PDI at our dealer pickup, the Techs installing the Camera reminded me of this fact. Sure enough, that is a true fact, as that is another reason I disconnect our negative lead to the Btry when we take our 2018 310 GK to our storage unit. The camera is always on when it is installed, even if your cabin display isn't plugged in. You can check it in the rear of your RV, and see it is lighted.
    I agree with, "boycott." There probably is a problem with the wiring at the camera.
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  8. #8
    Fireside Member 1st Cav Duke's Avatar
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    Guess I messed up the original post when I tried to add my two cents. LOL I am watching the OHIO/ Penn State game, and am easily distracted. So very sorry
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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  9. #9
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    I checked the fusing on my 310-GK...

    The "rear lights" fuse controls the lights in the dining slide (passenger side) and the lights over the couch (the ones with the 2 switches over the couch).

    The ceiling fan fuse controls the ceiling fan in the kitchen and the sconces on the rear wall (the 2 on either side of the couch).

    My rear camera receives constant power from the kitchen fan hot wire (I know - I installed a switch in the trim for the fan to turn the camera off - which, so far I have never done).

    Knowing the 'quality' that the people building these things puts into their job , and suspecting that a lot of the wiring runs the same path to the rear, I still think the trouble might be where the camera power is on the back of the RV.
    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  10. #10
    Setting Up Camp
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    I ended up speaking with Grand Design, and was informed that the current draw for the rear camera is neglible. They told me that they intentionally made the power wire “hot” all the time ... because some owners want it wired that way so they can use that camera for security purposes. I ended up reconnecting the wiring, as originally wired from the factory.

    On another issue ... where is the inverter physically located in the RV?

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