New 2020 337RLS owners

[chemist308]

Very interested how you like the new 337. We are inbetween the 315 and 337. Leaning 337 because of the shower and some extra room in bedroom. The truck is a F350 diesel SWR so we’re good for either. Like having a little extra cargo wt with the 315 but just don’t want to regret not having some extra room.

The 337 (at least my 2018 anyway) has a heat duct in the pass through, and no divider to prevent heat from that duct from getting into the wet bay. This equips it much better to handle winter, as your incoming lines won't freeze as easily. That, the one piece shower and leveling system make it an no brainer over the 315 for full time.

[nonrev59]

Thanks and I see that I goofed on saying 315... I meant the 303RLS and the 337RLS. My bad. Now I need to learn how to edit a comment. Ha..

[copyritejim]

Love the 337! It’s a home away from home.


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[Riverrunner]

Picked up our 337 on Friday. Now if I had the time to go use it...

[Stilly1155]

Picked up our 337 on Friday. Now if I had the time to go use it...

I feel your pain! We are heading out in ours a week from today for a 5 day shake-down. After doing the PDI I don't expect there will be much wrong. (fingers crossed!)

[J&J___]

Picked up our 337 on Friday. Now if I had the time to go use it...

Looks just like our 2020 337. I am sure you will love it. We really like our unit.

After being in our trailer full time for a little over three month here is a list of what I recommend you do before you use it.

Grease the suspension, it will be dry.
Level the trailer and zero out the leveling system. This will save frustrations since you don’t know if it was zeroed properly.
Check all roof caluk for cracks and holes.
The back corners of the roof, under the ladder and on the opposite side likely will develop cracks in the caulk as it cures.
Check the black plastic gutters on both sides next to the front cap. The silicone that GD uses does not stick to the plastic and water will come off the roof and run around the gutter, enter the moulding cover over the screws that cover where the font cap attaches and come out the drip hole at the bottom. I would recommend something other than silicone. I used dicor nonsag lap sealant since I had some. No more leaks.
Go over the entire ouside of the trailer and look for places where the GD silicon did not stick or was badly applied and fix them. I have been using GE silicone in the small tubes. It works great and easy to appy in small areas with the small tube. When doing a repair I alway use blue tape to mask the joint, apply the silicon, wear a rubber glove and force the silicone into the crack the immediately remove the tape.
Inside
Check the big drawer under the TV. Mine had 1 screw holding the back mounting board where the tracks mount.
Check the three drawers under the hutch. I had to also fix the drawer mounts there.
Open the sleeper couch and make sure it is well attached to the floor. Ours had light weight angle brackets that had pulled the screws out. I replaced them with better brackets. If your couch slides forward during travel you could destroy your slide-outs when you open them.
Now for the big one. Pull the back panel in your pass through storage, not hard to do 6-10 screws and check your soft hoses running from the Nautilus panel to hot water heater and the black sewer flush line. In my 337 they gathered up several of these lines and put a zip tie tightly around them and hung them from the ceiling. The result was a collapsed black, sewer flush line and partially collapsed red, hot water line.

You could take it to the dealer if you find any of these problems but we are full time so we can’t be without the trailer.

These are all small things. The good news is our refrigerator, furnace, hot water heater, fire place, slides all work well. The stove/oven looks good and works as others on this site have reported.

Our 337 tows great and backs easier than my old fifth wheel. Overall we are very happy with the design and construction of the trailer. I am sure you are going to love your new 337.

[goducks14]

"I have been using GE silicone in the small tubes."

I though silicone was a big no no on RV's. Geoflex or Dicor non sag in clear should be used. Nothing will ever stick to silicone again and it's a bear to remove when needing another application.

[Stilly1155]

Good info J&J thanks. I'll check all those things.

[J&J___]

"I have been using GE silicone in the small tubes."

I though silicone was a big no no on RV's. Geoflex or Dicor non sag in clear should be used. Nothing will ever stick to silicone again and it's a bear to remove when needing another application.

The reason that I used silcone is because my understanding was that is what the factory used. If factory stuff is not 100% silcone it has a lot of silcone in it. It looks like silicone, and acts like silicone, does not come off and leaves the slick film like silicones. My repirs were small spot repairs. If I have a large area I will be looking at other products.

I was not aware that Dicor came in clear.

[goducks14]

The reason that I used silcone is because my understanding was that is what the factory used. If factory stuff is not 100% silcone it has a lot of silcone in it. It looks like silicone, and acts like silicone, does not come off and leaves the slick film like silicones. My repirs wew small spot repairs.

I was not aware that Dicor came in clear.

True Dicor's not available in clear. However Geocel is. The last 5er I owned used Geocel 2800 MHR clear. Looks like silicone but is longer lasting. Proflex is another brand that makes clear caulking.

https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pr...xible-sealant/
Same company just a different brand within.