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  1. #1
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Disc brake converted, step inside if you're mechanically inclined

    I'm thinking seriously now about jumping on to the converted bandwagon after reading many positive reviews here and having had the opportunity to ride along with a fellow forum member yesterday as he put his converted GD to slumber in winter storage. He gave me the opportunity to drive his rig, and all I can say is WOW! I have had experience towing trailers with hydraulic surge discs and never thought them any better than drum setups, but these electric-to-hydraulics are clearly different animals thanks to the control unit. I truly couldn't believe how much shorter of a stop it was and found myself braking way too early being used to the longer distance. Finally the advantages we all know discs provide on our vehicles for our trailers!

    Now let my preface where I am going with this by saying I am an engineer by profession and a life-long gearhead having worked to fund my schooling in both paint and body and mechanical repair, and I have built several drag cars, off-road vehicles, hot rods, and restomods for which the '37, '38, and '56 Chevys are still in my garage! Working on brakes and building complete systems doesn't scare me at all. However, I also enjoy the convenience of well thought out plug and play as the years tick by and my bones ache more and more...

    So I have been reviewing the details of the kits put together by both of the popular companies frequently mentioned, and when it comes down to the brake plumbing I am disappointed. I find one really violates basic fundamentals of fluid dynamics and also the basic rules-of-thumb of good practice for those of us who have been formally instructed. For example, using an over-sized main tube that has to be stepped down in size at each tee. That smacks both of the aforementioned points dead-on between the cross-sectional yo-yo and all of the additional joints it's creating. They indicate they couldn't source a matching tee, which is ridiculous! I can open 3 different catalogs of brake hardware and order tees for any standard size rigid tube from any of them. There's also gross use of hose versus rigid tube, and conventional theory is to minimize the use of flexible because it cannot hold the pressure as well (on top of the durability concerns) and because it's also where moisture can diffuse into the system. There's also other basic misses in their layout from hydraulic considerations. The other one has better hydraulics but misses on the routing unless you don't mind removal to drop the belly shield, which is something every trailer has to have done at least once to deal with a tank valve! Do the kits from both work - obviously! Are they well thought out and optimized is really the question.

    So, I am curious of what like-minded, technical/mechanically inclined folks think about the plumbing of these kits. That's the only aspect I'm looking for a discussion about. I have already spoken with the technical strength at both kit providers. Overall, I think I have resigned myself to building my own setup using the same discs/brackets/calipers and the controller everyone else is using and just making up the plumbing myself. Advantages here are that I can design and install it exactly as I want and tailored exactly to our 3350RL and do things in stages by installing the plumbing and actuator (sans final wiring) first, and then install the discs and finish the conversion.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor andrewssteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
    I find one really violates basic fundamentals of fluid dynamics and also the basic rules-of-thumb of good practice for those of us who have been formally instructed.
    Since I contemplating having one of those two popular vendors do a conversion to disk upgrade next year, I'd appreciate it if you could name names.

    -Steve
    Steve and Renee
    2018 Solitude 310GK, disc brakes, Morryde SRE4000/XFactor with heavy duty shackles
    2012 Ram 3500 SRW 6.7 Diesel, air bags
    18k B&W Companion, non-slider
    640 watts solar, 400 amp-hour Lion Safari UT 1300 battery bank
    Aims 1500 watt inverter/charger with ATS
    Somerset, WI

  3. #3
    Site Sponsor orbiker's Avatar
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    Rob

    Read this thread that Luv2Ski started. He didn't like the plumbing either.

    KEN
    Backpacker and tent camper all my life, including BSA as a kid and adult.
    Motorcycle trips across the USA with a tent - 1978 to Present.
    02-10-2005 - 2002 F350 SWD PSD and 2003 Citation 10'8S mostly for Crater Lake Ski Patrol.
    10-29-2015 - 2016 Grand Design 380TH. It's HUGE compared to a camper.
    10-19-2018 - traded truck for a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie CC 4 X 4 Long Box.
    03-16-2019 - Traded Momentum for a New 2018 374TH-R Solitude
    FULL TIME RV'er Nov 2021

  4. #4
    Rolling Along cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
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    The install I have seen is rigid tubing everywhere except the drop down to each caliper. This is needed so the suspension can flex without straining the brake lines. I would think the ideal plumbing would be a T up front near the actuator and then 2 runs down each side of the trailer frame back to the axles. This should be able to avoid having anything obstruct the choroplast all together.
    2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali Diesel DRW (Crew Cab | 8 Ft bed | OEM Puck System | Curt Gooseneck Ball for OEM Puck | Timbrens on rear axle)
    2019 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3740BH-R Fifth Wheel (Onan 5500W LP Generator | MORryde CRE3000 and HD Shackles/Wet Bolts | 3x MORryde Cross Members | 8k Axles and Disc Brakes | Sailun S637 ST | Reese GooseBox 20k 2nd Gen | Splendide Stackable Washer and Dryer)
    Full Suite of Victron Energy Products (2x 5k 24v Quattro Inverter/Charger | 2x 25.6/200 LFP Smart LiFePO4 Batteries | 2880w of Solar Panels across 4x MPPTs | Cerbo GX)

  5. #5
    Big Traveler
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    Rob, I agree that the tubing types used and its routing leaves something to be desired from the photos I've seen. I have built a couple cars in my day, a 47 Merc and a 35 Ford 5w couple. I'd never plumb a car with flexible hose, wouldn't want to do it with my trailer. I'd probably use copper nickel alloy tubing. As for routing, there are many ways to go. I usually make projects like this difficult because it has to look good, even if I can't see it when I'm done. One of the reasons I don't want to drop the coroplast. It's a jungle in there!

  6. #6
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbiker View Post
    Rob

    Read this thread that Luv2Ski started. He didn't like the plumbing either.

    KEN
    Holy cow! He went all in with needing the tools too! I fortunately have all on hand, including a coil straightener, amassed over the decades of toy building.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chiefblueman View Post
    Rob, I agree that the tubing types used and its routing leaves something to be desired from the photos I've seen. I have built a couple cars in my day, a 47 Merc and a 35 Ford 5w couple. I'd never plumb a car with flexible hose, wouldn't want to do it with my trailer. I'd probably use copper nickel alloy tubing. As for routing, there are many ways to go. I usually make projects like this difficult because it has to look good, even if I can't see it when I'm done. One of the reasons I don't want to drop the coroplast. It's a jungle in there!
    Yeah, double-wall Bundy is standard fare, but I prefer to work in stainless tube. I'm the same way - doesn't matter if you can see it or not when done, it has to be neat, efficient, and look good!
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  7. #7
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    I purchased a kit from stopyourtrailer.com. I didn't use all the hoses they included opting for hard lines (from NAPA) all the way down the side rail, across the RV on the MorRyde X-Factor Crossmember and tee'd (3 tee's total) into flex line as close the the wheels as I could with as short a flexible line as I could use.

    I didn't use their 1/4" hard line either and just went with 3/16" all the way as it was easier to form/bend. I covered everything with 2 layers of wire loom (1/4" and then 3/8" if I remember right).
    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  8. #8
    Seasoned Camper phonemannn's Avatar
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    Here is how I did mine,Click image for larger version. 

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    2017 F350 Lariat, Dual rear wheels
    2017 GD 311BHS

  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper phonemannn's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The control box in the front storage area...
    Ran line back on passenger side, And boy do they work great!!!!
    Last edited by phonemannn; 12-03-2019 at 02:25 PM.
    2017 F350 Lariat, Dual rear wheels
    2017 GD 311BHS

  10. #10
    Seasoned Camper phonemannn's Avatar
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    I can post more if wanted. Ran main line under the step, wherever the line went thru steel, protected it with a short piece of fuel line, And if there was a screw near the line, fuel line to protect it as well....
    2017 F350 Lariat, Dual rear wheels
    2017 GD 311BHS

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