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  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp
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    moving converter

    I want to know what people do when you move a converter to a new location. Wire sizes for add length jumps up a lot
    I want to move my converter,in my 2019 337rls, to inside front space.
    OK not to bad jumps to #4 wire but I also want to wire everything to some day have two or more lithium batterys and a higher amp converter.
    There 3 wire related to this + - and another + that charges battery.
    So can I run direct to battery from converter and also back to battery where the wiring doing back only has to carry 12 lights and stuff.
    Sorry for drawing this out.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darcyracing View Post
    I want to know what people do when you move a converter to a new location. Wire sizes for add length jumps up a lot
    I want to move my converter,in my 2019 337rls, to inside front space. OK not to bad jumps to #4 wire but I also want to wire everything to some day have two or more lithium batterys and a higher amp converter. There 3 wire related to this + - and another + that charges battery. So can I run direct to battery from converter and also back to battery where the wiring doing back only has to carry 12 lights and stuff. Sorry for drawing this out. Thanks
    Why are you making the move? The converter is not typically something to which you need access. It seems to make sense that it be close to your incoming shore power rather than running shore power a dozen feet or more away from there and then running 12V power back from there to most of your circuits. The latter especially will be expensive - either expensive for over-sized wire as you've apparently considered or expensive in voltage loss if you go with minimum-rated wire. For your future plans with lithium batteries you'll need a different converter with lithium-charging capabilities (or more likely an inverter-charger) anyway so why mess around with the current one?

    What do you gain? Sorry if I'm thick.

    P.S. Please use the Reply With Quote link at the bottom of this message so I get a notification of your reply.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  3. #3
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    Sounds like a lot of work with no benefit that I can see.
    John & Kathy
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  4. #4
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkwilson View Post
    Sounds like a lot of work with no benefit that I can see.
    I'm guessing that he/she is thinking about doing higher-amperage charging in the future, but just upgrading the wire to the batteries seems easier than moving the charger up to the batteries.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  5. #5
    Big Traveler Wicked ace's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyscout View Post
    I'm guessing that he/she is thinking about doing higher-amperage charging in the future, but just upgrading the wire to the batteries seems easier than moving the charger up to the batteries.
    I'm thinking of moving mine but to make it more accessible. Right now it's on the basement floor wrapped up in the spaghetti ball of wire and water hose. There are two 30 amp fuses in it that shouldn't be problematic. I wasn't happy when i found them by accident (also a 10 amp in the water pump supply.). I'm thinking of mounting it and the pump to the ceiling or step structure to get it out of the way. With that space clear and the divider redone I could easily gain another 6 cu. ft of storage under there.
    2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
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  6. #6
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    A long time ago I had a trailer with a cheap-aZZ single stage converter. Rather than replace it I added a stand-alone deck-mount converter in the pass-through. That converter is now in my Imagine since it's a better one for charging off a generator. It's a shorter run to the batteries, and the factory WFCO is used as a distribution center and turned off at its breaker.
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  7. #7
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wicked ace View Post
    I'm thinking of moving mine but to make it more accessible. Right now it's on the basement floor wrapped up in the spaghetti ball of wire and water hose. There are two 30 amp fuses in it that shouldn't be problematic. I wasn't happy when i found them by accident (also a 10 amp in the water pump supply.). I'm thinking of mounting it and the pump to the ceiling or step structure to get it out of the way. With that space clear and the divider redone I could easily gain another 6 cu. ft of storage under there.
    I get that. I don't get moving it all the way up to the front compartment with the batteries.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  8. #8
    Setting Up Camp
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    Moving the converter is a great idea. Suggest putting in battery night switches. These are switches to isolate the batteries. Glorified on off switch. Do NOT use the converter to charge your batteries. Converters kill batteries and now with AGM and LION batteries specialty chargers are required. Use the the converter to run your unit’s 12 volt system. Turn off or isolate the batteries with the night switches and have the dedicated charger or proper solar panels controller charge your fancy batteries. Anyway my two bits from a guy who boon docks all summer while managing some provincial parks.
    Dale & Lorna
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  9. #9
    Long Hauler DaveMatthewsBand's Avatar
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    Sometimes folks get confused by terminology which can lead to problems and miscommunication.

    A converter simply converts 120v AC (from shore or generator) into 12v DC to run your 12v ports, your ceiling fans, your LED lights, and other very low draw items like that.

    Converters do not charge batteries.

    The WFCO converter that comes in our trailers does include a battery charger, but these are 2 completely different things.
    Most large aftermarket inverters have a built-in converter and battery charger.

    If you want to run 120v AC devices using only your 12v batteries (or 24v or 48v) you can, using an inverter, which inverts DC into 120v AC. This allows you to run 120v AC devices like your microwave oven, crock pot, air fryer, electric water heater, etc. using just your batteries and no shore power, no generator.

    Also, before anyone gets into it, solar power (coming from a solar panel going through a solar charge controller) doesn't actually "power" anything, it simply charges your batteries.
    Resistance is Not Futile, It's Voltage Divided by Current.


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveMatthewsBand View Post
    Sometimes folks get confused by terminology which can lead to problems and miscommunication.

    A converter simply converts 120v AC (from shore or generator) into 12v DC to run your 12v ports, your ceiling fans, your LED lights, and other very low draw items like that.

    Converters do not charge batteries.

    The WFCO converter that comes in our trailers does include a battery charger, but these are 2 completely different things.
    Most large aftermarket inverters have a built-in converter and battery charger.

    If you want to run 120v AC devices using only your 12v batteries (or 24v or 48v) you can, using an inverter, which inverts DC into 120v AC. This allows you to run 120v AC devices like your microwave oven, crock pot, air fryer, electric water heater, etc. using just your batteries and no shore power, no generator.

    Also, before anyone gets into it, solar power (coming from a solar panel going through a solar charge controller) doesn't actually "power" anything, it simply charges your batteries.
    Well said ED.
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