Auto Leveling Woes

[Clanker24]

We hope to take possession of our Solitude 310 next month. Not ever having had a leveling system (other than wife) before, we have a learning curve ahead of us. On our three previously owned units, we've had the front electric jacks and manual rear jacks. It is always our practice to do a "drag test" before departure. After hookup, we extend the front jacks to about 6-8" above the ground and move forward about 6'. Will we be able to manually extend the front Jackson the 310 to the desired location?

This is our first rv with the level up and would not want to be without it now. After u r hooked up u can manually lower the fronts so they r a couple inches of the ground and do your pull test. Drag the trailer brakes manually and a short tug is all that’s required. If u r raising your jacks 6-8” that is way too high and could drop on your tow vehicle.

[rbtintx]

There is a limit to how far the jacks can extend. If your site is not close to level, you will likely need leveling blocks on one side and possibly under your tires on the low side. You don’t want your tires off the ground after you are level! I purchased Andersen 2-Pack Camper Leveler, Chock Kit on Amazon. These will ensure you can still chock the wheels. You can also get the Level Mate Pro so you can see how far off you are when you are parking (from your phone). This will help you know which side needs the levelers.

[Bill G]

REeently saw 5er n campground who could not get his landing gear up so he could leave. We are taking delivery of a 2018 303rls next week and would like to know is there a manual way to retract/extend landing gear in such a situation. On our Reflection 297, thee was always a manual way to do everything if needed.

Bill & Jan
Canyon lake, TX

[boyscout]

REeently saw 5er n campground who could not get his landing gear up so he could leave. We are taking delivery of a 2018 303rls next week and would like to know is there a manual way to retract/extend landing gear in such a situation. On our Reflection 297, thee was always a manual way to do everything if needed. Bill & Jan Canyon lake, TX

I'm going to presume that your 303 will have hydraulic leveling instead of the electric leveling you know, and that's why you're asking about it.

There is a way to move the jacks and slides if the hydraulic pump won't but you have to be prepared for it with an electric drill and appropriate bit.

See page 8 of this document:

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0001531.pdf

See page 9 of this document:

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001616.pdf

Of course these approaches will work only if you have not had a serious fluid loss and your problem is that the pump is not pumping. If instead something has blown to cause your troubles (one of our jacks blew its top seal) then you may be able to use the control screws on the main manifold to isolate the damaged part of the network and use the hopefully-working pump to retract/extend the rest of it.

Hope this helps.

[Firmn74]

I have the Lippert auto leveling on my 2018 303RLS. Just came back from a trip to Hilton Head. The site was concrete, looked fairly level. Looking at it before backing in, I couldn't see that there would be an issue - the slab was a bit higher on one side less than an inch. Upon auto leveling, we got an error that the system was unable to level the camper. So we looked at the manual which we had previously downloaded and spent over an hour trying to figure out how to use the system to get level - gave up as it was getting dark and cold. The solution in the manual is to move the unit - no place to move it to though.

I guess I thought that this system would be able to handle this - it's not like I was on some crazy angle. You would think that it could figure out how to do this itself - it's called Auto leveling after all. How do others do to get level using the auto leveling system? Do you do something before unhooking? I have the stack-able blocks - but you would have to re-hook in order to put them under the front legs. What do you do if you get this error? I'm just out of ideas as to how to get things level.

I had mine do the same thing once and the dealer gave me reset instructions. It worked great and no problems since.


Auto level reset: while on battery power with Auto Level power off, press the down arrow 10 times, then the up arrow 10 times, turn on, press Auto Level

Give that a try, worked for me!

[Bill G]

Thanks, Boyscout. I thought that the 303 was electric on front and hydraulic on rears. What salesman said. Maybe US only? I will check. Your information was very helpful.

[fatlube]

Not every time but every once in awhile when auto level is complete I do notice steps to trailer are a little high to step in. Would it hurt anything to manually lower front and back 6 inches to a foot ? TIA 16-303

[ThePowells]

Not every time but every once in awhile when auto level is complete I do notice steps to trailer are a little high to step in. Would it hurt anything to manually lower front and back 6 inches to a foot ? TIA 16-303

That is entirely based upon the site that you are on and how level. In our driveway, our is so nose down that steps are at the shortest point. If it was facing the other way, they would probably be at nearly extended out. If you have a foot that you can settle down, then your jacks are probably not leveling properly.

[SleepsInLakes]

I'm a new GD owner this year, though not new to RVing. I've had some Auto-Level fails, 3 at one site one time!, and also had to reteach the unit what level was. I think that was due to poor PDI though.

Anyway, I have been in some sites where I had to drop the nose before pushing auto-level. I did that and it worked just fine. This seems to be needed when the front is so high that the rear jacks try to lift one or both rear wheels off the ground. We can usually spot it now when we pull in. The main point is the trailer levels just fine in this circumstance. The important thing to remember if you think you need to do this - When disconnecting, don't drop the landing pads all the way to the ground. Leave some room to force the electric jack to lower the leg before disconnecting. That gap you leave becomes your available adjustment distance to lower the front, ie 6" gap between landing pad and ground gives ability to lower nose 6".

Your results might vary, but this works fine for us.

[SleepsInLakes]

That is entirely based upon the site that you are on and how level. In our driveway, our is so nose down that steps are at the shortest point. If it was facing the other way, they would probably be at nearly extended out. If you have a foot that you can settle down, then your jacks are probably not leveling properly.

I will second that. I'm not sure how you can a foot available without having wheels off the ground.