2020RLS - Solar Trickle Charger Port Gone?

[cbs78130]

We have a 2020 337RLS with the newer color scheme (called pebble). I just realized our unit doesn’t have the port for the solar trickle charger. I believe the 2020 337RLS in the older color scheme (cappuccino I think it’s called) does still have the port. Has anyone else noticed this? I think it’s odd that it has apparently been deleted on the new color scheme.

Note, I’m talking about the battery trickle charger port located next to the front battery compartment. I’m not talking about the pre-wiring on the roof to install solar panels for camping.

[FT4NOW]

I could be wrong, but I think when GD switched to doing prewired solar on the roof they ditched the port by the front basement.

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[cbs78130]

Thank you. That does make some sense but sure seems like a lot of trouble to install a trickle charger on the roof. I’m just starting to learn about solar on RVs. I’ve no idea how the panels attach to the roof but I’m not interested in anything that would potentially compromise the integrity of the roof.

[Juiceman]

I agree. I even invested in the special Furrion plug for my new 2020 295RL and ... surprise... no front plug. If someone wants that plug, I'll sell it cheap at the Idaho gathering in May.

I plan to mount the solar charger in the front storage next to the batteries. The roof mount is just a connector and the wires are already in that storage area, that is where they probably want you to mount the charge controller anyway. Now... for how to get the wires outside for a trickle charger or ground mounted solar panels?

I like this plug from eTrailer.com which I will wire directly to the battery system. Good for lots of different things in the 12V world: https://www.etrailer.com/12V-Power-A...hoC7akQAvD_BwE

This plug is the same as for my Harbor Freight solar panels. This is what they call an SAE 12V plug (lots of different things for SAE plugs and cables on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...OBTYX8EL&psc=1

Be sure to put a bit of caulking between the plug outside flange and the trailer wall before you screw it tight to ensure a weatherproof seal. I usually use clear silicone for this sort of thing.

[cbs78130]

What do you use to cut through the wall of the battery compartment? I think a regular hole saw would run the risk of damaging the surrounding material.

Also, do you have a battery controller that you use? My limited reading tells me a battery controller is necessary to avoid potential problems.

Lastly, does anyone know how long it is safe to leave the battery unhooked before needing to recharge it, keeping in mind it’s not good to run the batteries down too low. My sole reason for wanting the solar trickle charger was to avoid having to make a trip out to the storage unit every so often to charge the battery. Obviously I could just remove the battery and keep it in my garage where I could easily charge it as necessary, but with all the other items we pack in and out of the camper I’d much prefer to leave it onsite. This, I’ve taken to just disconnecting the negative battery terminal when it’s stored. If the battery will last a month or so without degrading the longevity, I can get by without the trickle charger.

Interestingly, of the roughly 60 units at the storage facility, I’ve not seen a single one with a solar charger.

[JLBRUSCIA]

We just bought one. It's on the roof.

[Juiceman]

I will probably use a hole saw (like you use to make a hole for a door knob). These sockets are much smaller, the 12V SAE is probably only 1".

On these hole saws, look carefully inside to avoid hitting one of the frame pieces. Go slowly, don't push too hard or it will break out the inside materials as it cuts (you want it to cut a clean hole).

Oh, and buy a new hole saw. I tend to tear up these tools and they get very dull and then you get a rough edge on the outside, which is not good, and hard to seal. I usually use just a light sandpaper to take off any burrs around the hole and to make it smooth for the wires, etc (don't get crazy, just the edge, not the surface). Be sure to seal with silicone under the flange before you screw the socket to the outside. you want a bit of the sealant to squish out, just smooth it off and avoid too much "blobs".