Storing RV at home

[Overtaxed]

To me that sounds like a great price!

I'd agree with that. And thank you for sharing, the area I'm looking to have them build this for me is already mostly leveled and covered in crush/run, so, while concrete would be nice, I'm thinking it's not really necessary for this, just some poles with a roof over it. Shoot, if I can get in for 6-7K (which doesn't seem unreasonable given your price with concrete), I wouldn't even consider an RV cover, those aren't cheap, and they'll eventually wear out, and PITA to put them on/off, can't access RV when under the cover, etc. No way, a "carport" like that would be much better for me, I have the space to do it, and, even if I eventually decided RV'ing wasn't for me, I could use the covered area for tractors/equipment (and increases the value of my property). Easy choice for me at that price.

[Tall Paul]

$6-7k maybe possible. I used a good (expensive) customer of my firm. The concrete size is 50x20 - but I work for a concrete company so I had a good price. The roof is nicely supported as we do get a fair amount of snow at times.

You can always check to see if there is any recycled asphalt or crushed concrete in the area. These can be compacted to make a nice firm base (but prices vary substantially by market because of supply).

The rest of the story. This carport is right next to my more expensive barn - which I had build 5 years earlier before I had a 5th wheel. The barn doors couldn’t be enlarged to fit the taller 5th wheel so I had to build the carport. . I guess it all works as my barn is full of stuff.

[Steven@147]

Well I might as well chime in. In south central Texas (Austin) during spring-summer-fall (Mar-Dec) plugged into 50amp, parked behind house open air, leveled and all jacks down, on mostly gravel. One AC unit on set to auto 80* (I alternate AC units) , runs shop power bill up @ $50-60 extra / month depending on temp. Winter (late Dec-Feb) - winterized with antifreeze, you never know about crazy Texas weather. Leveled, stabilized, no power, battery disconnected at terminals, uncovered, slides in, moisture buckets placed in strategic places. If we do change our mind in winter and go in it (late Dec-Feb), its not the big of deal to connect battery, apply power a couple days before heading out, dewinterize at campground. May re-winterize - depends on long range forecast. RV is never covered ( don't have enough room for very large car port) - but its really no different than living in it fulltime with it uncovered at a campground. but I do understand why owners park them under cover. Anything you can do to keep the RV in the best condition when not in use, so much the better. I would not use an RV cover unless last resort, too much potential for mold/mildew and they rot fast. Large open air car port gravel base cheapest covered option to allow RV to "breath".

Now for us in the dead of winter late Dec-Feb, we don't get snow, usually, crazy Texas weather, if we do its gone the next day. Just like this year so far, 80 one day, 35-40 the next day, a couple days later back up in to the 70s. When the polar express comes through may get down into the low 29-30s, we get these temp swings, I will reconnect battery, apply power, open slides and run AC unit to dry out the RV and keep moisture down.

[Schiefswret]

i leave mine plugged in (30A) 24/7. Slide in, water and sewer hooked up.
I put the AC thermostat on a reasonable temp (Florida) when appropriate and keep an electric dehumidifier on ‘auto’ 24/7. It will turn off automatically if tank gets full. I check it every few days. I put the stabilizers down, chocks etc. Pretty much exactly as if we were camping at an RV site. Grand Design 2250RK. Good Luck.

[James Callahan]

[QUOTE=Overtaxed;268611]So, a few questions, we have plenty of room to store the 351M at home, and a good spot for it, so I think that's what we'll be doing. But I'm not sure about a few things and just wanted to get some guidance on how to do it.

First question, leave it plugged in? I can pull 50A to the place we want to store it pretty easily, should I just hook up shore power and leave it that way? Which, if yes:
What do I leave on in the unit? Refrigerator seems like it would be nice to have on all the time. Any heat? Run AC in the summer?
Slides in or out?
On the jacks or on the tires?

So, I've read a lot about this one, but if anyone cares to offer an opinion, covered/uncovered? I'm thinking about building a "carport" (pole barn style) for it and I'm sure it would like that, but it's not gonna be cheap to do that, so before I go down that route, how bad is it for these things to sit in the weather vs under cover? I did look at the big canvas style covers, I just see that as something I'd hate about using/storing the RV, but if you guys tell me it's no big deal, I might reconsider, lot cheaper to buy some canvas than build a 20x50 pole structure!

For those of you who store in a barn/shed, what are the dimensions and are you happy with them?

Thanks

Uncoverd, moisture can do tremendous damage, jacks up, slides, in all battery’s taken out of uni, gas off, remove all food and do a great job cleaning it, RV antifreeze a must. If you do need to into it you can always plug it in and open slides

[jdmert]

The only thing I can add to what every one else has said is a dehumidifier. I live in the Pacific NW so we have a lot of moisture nearly year around. I keep a large dehumidifier in the rig at all times. It sits in the bathroom and drains into the shower, grey water tank. I have done this for all my rigs over the years and never have had a mold/mildew problem. The large dehumidifier circulates the air throughout the trailer quite well.

[lorend]

Just got a new 5er and was told by dealer to not use self leveling system to store the trailer. Any thoughts on this? Also if the fridge is not going to be used do you need to hook into more than 15amp circiut?

[FT4NOW]

Just got a new 5er and was told by dealer to not use self leveling system to store the trailer. Any thoughts on this? Also if the fridge is not going to be used do you need to hook into more than 15amp circiut?

What's the logic of not using it? We lived in ours for 3 years only raising the self leveling system on travel days. Most of our time was stationary in one place. No issues with the leveling system.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[James Callahan]

Dealer is correct, If you live in an area with frost, you don’t want the levelers down, the RV needs to be able to move as the ground freezes

[James Callahan]

Sorry,
Missed fridge question, 15am is fine, you need the 50 am for ac or especially if your running to ac units