DIY Disk Brake Conversion.

[SolarPoweredRV]

I'm considering upgrading my 5th wheel brakes to disk hydraulic with an electric actuator.

I have a 2020 Solitude 310GK.

I plan to do it myself before our trip out west next spring. I've priced out kits from etrailer and StopYourTrailer. Does anyone have any recommendations? I was also considering moving up to 8K rotors and bearings but I'm not sure if that is necessary. I'm open to suggestions.

Many thanks in advance.

I just had our 310GK converted last week. I bought the kit from Bill at StopYourTrailer.com and had him ship it direct to the shop that installed the Disc Brakes (we live in Tampa FL and Bill is out of Miami).

We decided to go with the 8,000 lb Rotors because, the cost to upgrade is minimal and you get more stopping power and heavier duty bearings.

Our installers did mention that they won't cut and Flare the brake lines that come in the kit because, they crack. Additionally, they mentioned that they installed a rubber brake line right out of the pump to eliminate the vibration noise that gets transmitted to the metal brake lines otherwise. They also mentioned that the rubber hose they send with the kit that gets installed between the axles is too long, they went to the auto parts store to get the proper size. They also mentioned that they tried to get the brake lines between the brakes as equal as possible.

I like el Rojo's solution of using automotive brake lines to get exactly the length of brake lines you need, but this is not necessary as there is enough brake lines included with the kit to reach your axles.

The installers installed the pump (at my direction) in the hold beneath the pinbox on the Driver's side, fairly high, to avoid being in the way when you are storing stuff in the front hold.

Because I upgraded to the 8000k Rotors, I needed to get larger lug nuts for my wheels and Bill supplied them with the kit.

I would highly recommend working with Bill at StopYourTrailer.com, the service was fast and efficient.

By-the-way, the Disc Brakes look Fantastic on the camper.

[SolarPoweredRV]

Thanks so much for your recommendations, suggestions and photos. They were all very helpful to come to a decision. It is great to be able to get first had experience from so many for a topic that few would consider.

Today I placed an order with Bill at StopMyTrailer.com. I ordered the standard 7K rotors and bearings. I really would have preferred to have it installed but there is no one in my area back home that I really trust. I am very comfortable doing the most of the install. I will probably take three times as long to get it done but I am sure it will turn out good. One gray area is if I need to run new wiring for the breakaway switch. That would not be fun. I will have to buzz that out to see what is going on.

Since I am saving a ton on installation I plan to buy a good quality flaring tool to have the minimum of connections with our any excess. I also have my eye on a good grease packing tool and a set of heavy duty jack stands.

This morning very early New Years Eve we left NY in the Solitude and are about 1/3rd of the way to John Prince Campground in Lake Worth FL. My TV has diesel braking and tow haul mode which is a pleasure driving down long steep roads (if you are familiar with the I-81 route) Just before we got to our final destination tonight I had to stop for a red light on a very steep down grade. I was going slow but I had to really stand on the brakes to keep it from rolling.

I’m looking forward to working on it when I get back home in early March. I’ll post photos then.

Since you are going to be down here in FL, I had my brakes installed in Hudson FL and the price was quite reasonable and the service was great. PM me if you want info on the installer we used (recommended by Bill).

[Flyn2high]

Hi David and Peggy:

Thanks so much for your feedback. I will take your advice on not flaring the lines that come with the kit. It also seams like a good idea to add the rubber line at the master cylinder. Also equal length lines at each wheel.

I see we have nearly the same setup with the goosebox truck and 310GK.

Your installer sounds like someone i would trust. I'm at Lake Worth FL until early March but my brake kit is already on order and will be in Long Island when we get home.

[SolarPoweredRV]

Hi David and Peggy:

Thanks so much for your feedback. I will take your advice on not flaring the lines that come with the kit. It also seams like a good idea to add the rubber line at the master cylinder. Also equal length lines at each wheel.

I see we have nearly the same setup with the goosebox truck and 310GK.

Your installer sounds like someone i would trust. I'm at Lake Worth FL until early March but my brake kit is already on order and will be in Long Island when we get home.

If bill hasn't shipped your kit yet, he can ship direct to the installer (that's how we did it) for you.
Just a thought.

[Flyn2high]

Hi Dave

Could you please let me have contact information for your installer. I'll check it out.

Thanks.

[Flyn2high]

I used Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing, won't rust and is much easier to work.

Hi Ed: If I do it my self I would also like to use Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing. I see it on Amazon but there are so many 3rd party vendors selling it and I'm not sure it is the same qualtity. Where did you buy yours?

Thanks

[Flyn2high]

I installed mine using just the Existing wire inside the pigtail. I used the unused yellow wire for breakaway function. Just tied one end of the switch to the Batt Plus where the lead comes into the RV, the other to the yellow wire, then the yellow to the wire intended for the breakaway function on disc brake unit. Inside the front compartment. Easy.
It is the wire used for backup lights, might be lavender...Looking at wiring diagram, yellow is for turn lights.....

In my case I am not so sure that would work. I have a pair of Lithium batteries. Since they rest at a higher voltage then the TV battery, on the charging circuit from the TV to the battery bank I have a Victron VCT-120 relay. This prevents current going from the TT back to the TV when the engine is off but still connected. If there is a breakaway the breakaway switch probably will not do its job because there is a relay in between. (see my wiring diagram).

[SolarPoweredRV]

In my case I am not so sure that would work. I have a pair of Lithium batteries. Since they rest at a higher voltage then the TV battery, on the charging circuit from the TV to the battery bank I have a Victron VCT-120 relay. This prevents current going from the TT back to the TV when the engine is off but still connected. If there is a breakaway the breakaway switch probably will not do its job because there is a relay in between. (see my wiring diagram).

I had a similar problem because of how I wired my 24 volt system into the 12 volt coach. My installer installed a Diode between the 12v Lithium batteries and the Brake controller which ensured the truck voltage could not be back fed into the 12 volt lithium batteries.

The Hydraulic Pump for the Disc Brakes requires a feed from both the truck and the 12 volt on-board battery(ies) to work properly, by using the Diode I can keep the truck from introducing too high voltage into my 12 volt system in the coach (I use a 24 to 12 volt DC-DC converter to supply 13.1 volts for all 12 volt systems inside the coach).

[Flyn2high]

After looking at it again the only solution I see is connecting the battery side of the breakaway switch directly on the TT battery + terminal. I just need to fish a wire through which may be a little challenging.

[SolarPoweredRV]

After looking at it again the only solution I see is connecting the battery side of the breakaway switch directly on the TT battery + terminal. I just need to fish a wire through which may be a little challenging.

My installer said they regularly cut one of the wires for the brake lights and use that wire to pull all the necessary wires into the hold (along with a replacement brake light wire).

A Pro tip !!!