Coach - pigtail grounding question

[VentureRider]

Good morning!

I am replacing the 7-pin electrical pigtail that connects the coach to the truck.

After pulling the work box cover (behind/under the kingpin), I see a HUGE wad of white ground wires (8 total, 1 from pigtail and 7 from the coach) all tied together with a large wire nut.

I can't fathom the whole "wire nut" thing...and my OCD won't let me leave this alone!

Base on the space in the work box, I would like to make this MUCH neater and more secure. I'm thinking about installing a Blue Seas Busbar () outside of the work box.

Question: is it acceptable to run ground wires "outside" of the work box? I would like to splice (via crimp connectors) an additonal length of wire (with a ring terminal), and run THAT wire out to the gounding bus bar.

Thoughts? Better way to "skin that cat" would be greatly appreciated!!

[Capt Jim]

I did this on an older travel trailer when it was having intermittent ground problems. Solved the problem and I don't see why it would be an issue.
I don't claim any particular expertise, but I have done a lot of vehicle/trailer wiring and common grounding points are common.
Wire nuts are nuts!

Safe Travels.

Jim

[geotex1]

Those are going to be grounds for the exterior trailer lights for the most part, if not entirely. If they're all small gauge, you can be certain they're lights. Personally, I'd keep everything in the box, upsizing if I had to or switch over to a traditional trailer harness junction box ala Bargman, Pheonix, etc. that have stud connections. When wiring 12VDC common grounds, many of us (including vehicle manufacturers) will use a single ring for 2, maybe 3, wires of same gauge and application. When I build harnesses, I make common grounds by using tinned rings without insulation. I'll strip the wires 3/4" back, align them, and tightly twist the strands together and slip over a piece of adhesive lined shrink tube. I then snip the twisted strands to the 0.2" length for the crimp barrel, slip on the ring terminal and crimp. After the crimp, I'll heat the ring and solder the wire by filling the crimp barrel and then shrink tube. Competent grounds are a must. FWIW, typical automotive wiring does not use bus bars (does comply with automotive standards) for common grounds but instead uses distributed chassis and body common grounding studs. Bus bars are more common to marine and industrial applications with 12/24VDC. If you choose to do a bus bar outside the junction box, at least use a stud model with weather cover IMO.

[VentureRider]

When wiring 12VDC common grounds, many of us (including vehicle manufacturers) will use a single ring for 2, maybe 3, wires of same gauge and application. When I build harnesses, I make common grounds by using tinned rings without insulation. I'll strip the wires 3/4" back, align them, and tightly twist the strands together and slip over a piece of adhesive lined shrink tube. I then snip the twisted strands to the 0.2" length for the crimp barrel, slip on the ring terminal and crimp. After the crimp, I'll heat the ring and solder the wire by filling the crimp barrel and then shrink tube.

Thanks for the feedback! I like the idea of multiple wires in a single ring terminal! There might just be enough space in the box, and slack in the wires to accomplish this.

Hadn't considered this approach.