1 12volt to 2 six volts

[Jaymee317]

Is there a good resource for learning about how to do a 12->dual 6 conversion?

EDIT: I've found a ton of information online, and looks like it's pretty straight forward. Just need to figure out a better battery tray setup.

Glad you were able to find info online. The conversion is pretty straightforward. You will replace the single 12 volt battery with two 6 volt batteries hooked up in series. The challenges are room and the existing wiring connections. GC2 batteries are taller than a typical 12 volt battery so you’ll likely need a taller case (2 in fact). My last trailer had the batteries in a side compartment on shelves. The top battery was a bear because the top battery had to be lifted and twisted to get it on the top shelf. Not fun.

You may need to replace one of the battery cables to get more reach to the terminals. Most of the time the stock cables have enough length.

Good luck.

[huntindog]

The battery box in my 327M is a vented model. Should I be concerned about using vented boxes as I move to dual 6volts?

Yes you need vented boxes.

[Cjohnson]

The battery box in my 327M is a vented model. Should I be concerned about using vented boxes as I move to dual 6volts?

I should ask this differently. I'm going go from (1) 12v to (2) 6V. Looking at the FullRiver 250 models. I'm not sure I need a battery box at all... Box or tray?

[Redapple63]

Folks,

Going from 1 12v to 2 6v batteries will not change the amperage going into your rv. The 6v batteries only have 3 cells versus 6, so the plates are thicker and the batteries are more rugged and have longer staying power than a 12v. Additionally, because of the thicker plates, can take a bit more abuse than an equivalent 12v.

I see no need to change out your existing cables. They will still work just fine, unless they were on the thin side to begin with.

I replaced my 12v with two Interstate 6v batteries. Each battery is in its own vented box. If you have a fiver, you could put them on a plate, but do recommend a vented box for flooded batts.

As far as cables...arrange your batteries opposite or rotated 180 degrees from each other.

The positive coming from your trailer/fiver goes to the positive on one of the batteries.

The negative of that battery goes to the positive of the second battery.

Then the negative from the trailer/fiver goes to the negative on the second battery.

Easy peasy...

Good Luck
Bill

[frank4711]

Getting ready to do it myself ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .... will cut vent hole in top of box and use existing vent tube to the outside. Just got 2 of these https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-...c2/prod3590228 ... later Frank

[sande005]

In general, yes. As a battery charges, it generates hydrogen gas. Enough can build up in a confined space to cause an explosion. And H floats, so your venting should come off the very top of the box. Your call as to whether the storage space already has sufficient ventilation or not. After all, cars do not use vented battery boxes. But most boats do. All depends on how well the area gets "flushed" with outside air to prevent a build-up.

[Cjohnson]

Well, I finished my project. I found quite a few links on this site which helped. I purchased the NOCO HM426 box form Amazon, and bought (2) Deka 8AGC2 batteries from a local electric truck refurbisher - they buy them in bulk. They also made up a series cable for me. Lastly, I used the old box top to fab up a vent stack which I riveted into the top of the HM426. Here's some pix:

[DaveMatthewsBand]

Well, I finished my project. I found quite a few links on this site which helped. I purchased the NOCO HM426 box form Amazon, and bought (2) Deka 8AGC2 batteries from a local electric truck refurbisher - they buy them in bulk. They also made up a series cable for me. Lastly, I used the old box top to fab up a vent stack which I riveted into the top of the HM426.

Some constructive criticism...
I would suggest a thicker positive battery cable.
Also it looks like you used heat shrink on the negative cable but not the positive?

[Cjohnson]

Some constructive criticism...
I would suggest a thicker positive battery cable.
Also it looks like you used heat shrink on the negative cable but not the positive?

No worries, constructive critiques always welcome. The cable was built by my local parts store. it's 4 gauge, and heavier then all of the factor 12V wires, but not as beefy as the series cable the battery supplier made up for me. Aware of the lack of shrink wrap on the positive to the cut-off; I'll clean that up later.

Cheers.
CJ