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Thread: So confused

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    Fireside Member Jquillen's Avatar
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    So confused

    Just purchased a 382wb solitude. My TV is an f250 with airbags. So much math involved. Why can't there be an easy button... I know I can tow it. But how far overloaded am I? And does anyone else do this?

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    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    If you tow a 382wb with a 250 diesel you are WAY overloaded. You probably exceed every weight limit.

    A 382wb has a published empty pin weight of 3,052 lbs and that’s without a battery or propane. The pin weight alone when loaded to travel will be close to 3800 lbs. the payload of a 250 diesel is around 2200 lbs.
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    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jquillen View Post
    Just purchased a 382wb solitude. My TV is an f250 with airbags. So much math involved. Why can't there be an easy button... I know I can tow it. But how far overloaded am I? And does anyone else do this?
    As another poster said, almost certainly "overloaded". How much? Well, the only way to figure it out is to head to a CAT scale and weigh it. It's no big deal, just find one, pull the rig there and hop on the scale, not hard at all. Costs 12-20 bucks, and you'll get all your axle weights. What year 250 and gas or diesel? That'll make a big difference.

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    Fireside Member BC315RLTS's Avatar
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    The airbags mean nothing. They don't increase carrying capacity at all.
    2019 Reflection 315RLTS
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    Commercial Member huntr70's Avatar
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    Open the driver's door of your truck and look at what your payload is.

    It will tell you , to the pound, what your truck can legally carry.

    Deduct for people in the truck, and anything you may have added from the factory build.
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    We Have a Great Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    A good rule of thumb is to take the gvwr and apply 21%. As stated above compare that figure to the rate on the sticker on the door. That would be ball park for the pin weight. It could be below that depending on how you load but should be close. Also as stated above you would really need to get a certified weighing to know the rest. Another big number to know is the axle rating. That is one if you are over that could cause a lot of mechanical problems.
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    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    You don't want to be this guy ! It is a F250 I suspect with a 10K GVWR hooked to a 375 Solitude. WAY over the "magical" 10K GVWR and thus payload and may be exceeding rear spring ratings as well. Tire ratings not sure but hope not.

    To your question - "and does anyone else do this ?" .......Yes, it happens all the time. Doing your due diligence on payload sticker and real truck capacities as well as potential risks to you, your family, and others along with liability concerns and possibly litigation will help to become more informed and determine your decision.

    Dan
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    Last edited by Canyonlight; 01-17-2020 at 09:05 AM.
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    Big Traveler
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    It will tell you , to the pound, what your truck can legally carry.
    And if that's what you care about, I can tell you, unless you have a very stripped down/gas version of the 250, no need to even look, you're over this number.

    Another big number to know is the axle rating.
    If this is what you care about, then the conversation takes a different turn. You MIGHT be over, you might not be. The axle on my 250 was rated at 6400 lbs (IIRC), limited by the suspension (the axle itself was rated higher from the MFGR, as were the tires). In this situation, airbags will help the truck carry the load. You will not be "legal" (as per above) but you will be within mechanical specs for the vehicle's components (if you check them all, the big ones are the axle itself (usually not a problem), the tires (can be a problem) and the springs (often the problem). The tires and springs can be changed inexpensively. But note, no matter what changes you make, you will still be over the "yellow sticker" and because of that, still run some risk (legally) towing. How much risk? Very small, IMHO, I've never heard of someone actually be pulled and forced to unhook for being overweight with a camper, and I see 250's hauling monsters ALL THE TIME on the highway. But there is some risk there, you have to determine how much that risk means to you. I would NEVER go over my tire ratings, that's just asking for problems. And I'd also never go over my axle rating, but, again, most of the time, that won't be a place you'll run into trouble.

    The 250 exists, IMHO, for one reason only. To beat the regulations/costs of registering a 350. They are effectively/mechanically pretty much identical, and, for a little money, you can get them 100% identical (350's have an overload spring that the 250 does not have, airbags or adding the spring is a simple fix). But you will be "over the sticker" for sure on a 250, especially if it's diesel. It's up to you what that means to you and how much it's worth to have the peace of mind that you're "within all ratings". I went through this exact thing, you can read the journey here (along with my weights):

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...diesel-weights

    I traded the 250 for a 450. No, I didn't feel "unsafe" in the 250. It carried the weight, and it did well. Adding airbags would have helped, for sure. But, at the same time, for me, the money was well spent to buy the peace of mind from having "more than enough" to tow my 351M. I could give a hoot about the "legal ramifications" of the 250, again, I see people doing that 10 times a day, it's just not much/any concern to me. At the same time, I knew I could have a "better" towing experience and increase my and my families safety by throwing money at the problem. So that's what I did. And yes, the 450 does haul it better, without question. But it's not like the 250 was "bad" the 450 is just "better". If you're happy with the way it tows, and you're under your tire and axle ratings, well, then, what are you trying to fix? If it's "be legal in all respects", stop reading and go to the Ford dealer. If it's simply "keep my truck from breaking", then, keep reading, get weighed, and start looking at the individual components that are stressed by towing. See what the ratings on those components are and where you land in regard to them with your weight. I think both are reasonable options, shoot, I did both; calculus on the 250 and then traded up for a 450. Both worked. The 450 is better but cost quite a bit of money for that "better".

    Edited to add.. If you do decide to trade, get a DRW! Trading for a 350 SRW to get "under sticker" is madness in my eyes, your paying a ton of money and not buying much (if anything) in safety beyond from "the law" (who almost certainly will never bother you even with the 250!). If you're gonna trade up, get something that really increases your margin of safety, a 350 DRW or a 450.
    Last edited by Overtaxed; 01-17-2020 at 09:10 AM.

  9. #9
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overtaxed View Post
    And if that's what you care about, I can tell you, unless you have a very stripped down/gas version of the 250, no need to even look, you're over this number.



    If this is what you care about, then the conversation takes a different turn. You MIGHT be over, you might not be. The axle on my 250 was rated at 6400 lbs (IIRC), limited by the suspension (the axle itself was rated higher from the MFGR, as were the tires). In this situation, airbags will help the truck carry the load. You will not be "legal" (as per above) but you will be within mechanical specs for the vehicle's components (if you check them all, the big ones are the axle itself (usually not a problem), the tires (can be a problem) and the springs (often the problem). The tires and springs can be changed inexpensively. But note, no matter what changes you make, you will still be over the "yellow sticker" and because of that, still run some risk (legally) towing. How much risk? Very small, IMHO, I've never heard of someone actually be pulled and forced to unhook for being overweight with a camper, and I see 250's hauling monsters ALL THE TIME on the highway. But there is some risk there, you have to determine how much that risk means to you. I would NEVER go over my tire ratings, that's just asking for problems. And I'd also never go over my axle rating, but, again, most of the time, that won't be a place you'll run into trouble.

    The 250 exists, IMHO, for one reason only. To beat the regulations/costs of registering a 350. They are effectively/mechanically pretty much identical, and, for a little money, you can get them 100% identical (350's have an overload spring that the 250 does not have, airbags or adding the spring is a simple fix). But you will be "over the sticker" for sure on a 250, especially if it's diesel. It's up to you what that means to you and how much it's worth to have the peace of mind that you're "within all ratings". I went through this exact thing, you can read the journey here (along with my weights):

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...diesel-weights

    I traded the 250 for a 450. No, I didn't feel "unsafe" in the 250. It carried the weight, and it did well. Adding airbags would have helped, for sure. But, at the same time, for me, the money was well spent to buy the peace of mind from having "more than enough" to tow my 351M. I could give a hoot about the "legal ramifications" of the 250, again, I see people doing that 10 times a day, it's just not much/any concern to me. At the same time, I knew I could have a "better" towing experience and increase my and my families safety by throwing money at the problem. So that's what I did. And yes, the 450 does haul it better, without question. But it's not like the 250 was "bad" the 450 is just "better". If you're happy with the way it tows, and you're under your tire and axle ratings, well, then, what are you trying to fix? If it's "be legal in all respects", stop reading and go to the Ford dealer. If it's simply "keep my truck from breaking", then, keep reading, get weighed, and start looking at the individual components that are stressed by towing. See what the ratings on those components are and where you land in regard to them with your weight. I think both are reasonable options, shoot, I did both; calculus on the 250 and then traded up for a 450. Both worked. The 450 is better but cost quite a bit of money for that "better".

    Edited to add.. If you do decide to trade, get a DRW! Trading for a 350 SRW to get "under sticker" is madness in my eyes, your paying a ton of money and not buying much (if anything) in safety beyond from "the law" (who almost certainly will never bother you even with the 250!). If you're gonna trade up, get something that really increases your margin of safety, a 350 DRW or a 450.
    Once again - good information and well said !

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

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    Dually would be my choice.

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