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  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp
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    No Salt Water Softener Systems / Scale Reduction Systems

    Anyone using water softening system that does not use salt? I have looked through the other forums on this site but all are focused on salt based systems. I'm interested to see if anybody is using the other systems that prevent scaling through use of citric acid, template assisted crystallization, or other similar technologies. I'm very familiar with traditional salt based ion exchange resins. Only looking for information on other technologies. Information gathering stage right now.


    Greg Gillespie
    2015 27RL 5th Wheel

  2. #2
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Unless salt is used, you're not removing the magnesium and calcium which are the prominent source of hardness. Thus, without salt you're not softening in water treatment terminology. Salt-free is only water conditioning, and the most common method is TAC treatment, and those crystals don't adhere to the plumbing system (scale). However, you've not removed the hardness so you still have the other issues of hard water like effectiveness of soaps and surfactants. So what is your end need at the tap? Are you avoiding salt due to high blood pressure or just the heft and footprint? Will you be stationary in one location that will really demand a water softening or conditioning? Living in the mountains, dealing with hard water is a way of life!
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  3. #3
    Setting Up Camp
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    Thanks for reply. Clarification of conditioned vs softened appreciated and understood. My goal is scale reduction in plumbing and water heater. We move allot as we travel around the US so size and weight an issue. I'm not against salt based systems ..... just seeing if others have any "in the field" experience with other technologies.

  4. #4
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Ok, let me give you my take. We are not full-timers, but camp from February to November and have gotten in 90 or more nights camping the last 5 years. When not on the road and in the campground, our camper is parked at home ready to leave. When camping, I filter water and adjust my filter train depending on what I find at the campground. I never treat the hardness. When we arrive home, I completely flush the water system and fill with our house water. This has served well. When I have pulled the anode and drained the water heater, if I find excess deposition I descale the entire plumbing system. A gallon of descaling concentrate is $12 from the plumbing supply and makes enough to treat the entire system, including hot water tank. For me personally, this is cheaper and easier than treating while traveling, even with table salt regenerating softeners. We are also fans of natural cleaners, and clean our sink basins and shower doors with vinegar so the hard water spots aren't an issue.
    Last edited by geotex1; 01-29-2020 at 07:55 PM.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  5. #5
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Reverse osmosis systems are popular with full-timers. They are pretty expensive and a bit bulky, though.

    Rob
    U.S. Army Retired
    2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  6. #6
    Setting Up Camp
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    The process you outlined was similar to mine for years. But .... the last two years we have been out for 2 to 3 months at a time. It becomes more of an issue with the extended trips. My research so far has been the salt free conditioning systems have a high initial cost .... $600 + filter replacement every year @ $60 or more vs $250 for a salt system and maybe $10 / year for salt based on my usage. No matter the system they all require a 10 micron max pre filter for solids. For my needs I'm going the less expensive salt based system route. But full timers might be better served with a no salt system given there is no regeneration needed and only requires a simple cartridge change.

  7. #7
    Rolling Along cfowler55's Avatar
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    When we had a home softener potassium was an option. The back flush using salt kills plants and grass. Potassium does not. RO was used to fine filter the soft water for consumption. The big issue with an RO is the amount of water wasted. I looked at the specs on one that was ten gallons consumed to produce one clean gallon.
    Charlie
    Vickie & Charlie
    2019 310GK-R
    2020 RAM Longhorn DRW Cummins /Aisin

  8. #8
    Setting Up Camp
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    I know you were looking for a no salt system but I thought I'd post this link anyway.

    https://www.frakco.com/TravelSoftHD.html

    Dan
    Dan

    "Charley" the Chocolate Lab co-pilot
    2018 F450 King Ranch
    2020 Reflection 337RLS (Harvey)
    B&W 25K Companion Puck Hitch

  9. #9
    Setting Up Camp
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    Thanks for the link.

  10. #10
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    Reverse osmosis systems are popular with full-timers. They are pretty expensive and a bit bulky, though. Rob
    I'm going to translate experience from another world into the RV world - people can flame me if I'm wrong.

    I used to have a high-end espresso machine and was advised that it should NOT get its water from our reverse osmosis water system. RO water is often slightly acidic and would accelerate corrosion of the boiler tanks and other metal parts by leaching ions and minerals from them.

    I'd guess that RO water would therefore would be a long-term concern in trailers that have the Atwood water heater with its aluminum water tank, just FYI for those with the Atwood.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

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