Hitch me up Baby! A hitching deliberation Saga - did I reach the right conclusion??!

[Bearii]

First off, sorry for the length of the post. I just notice that whenever some ask questions like these there seem to be all sorts of additional info people request to help the poor sap along. I tried to give you all the details upfront - but be warned, it's a bit long.

I thought I'd ask for the veterans here to double check my thinking on the hitch I'm planning to buy. Feel free to point out any flaws or improvements you can suggest. We have towed several TT's and owned a Tiffin Phaeton 4OIH motorhome when we were full-timers. Last year we bought a home to settle back down and now are ready to do some trips from just weekenders to leaving town and go to the mountains for 2-3 months in the summer when it's roasting in FL. We thought a small fifth wheel would be fun, it's just the two of us, and we wanted something that would be easy to get into the smaller parks that we missed when we had the big motorhome. We wanted to stay under 30' if possible (limit for some state parks).

Here are the details of the TV and RV:
Truck: 2019 RAM 3500 Mega Cab, 6' 4" bed, 6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel
Specs:
GVWR: 12,300
GCWR: 28,300
Max Tow: 19,860
Payload: 3,781
Curb Weight: 7,968
RGAWR: 7,000
Measurement from cab to gooseneck ball (center of potential hitch): 36.5"

5th Wheel: 2020 Reflection 150 Series 260RD (ordered, to be delivered in Feb)
Specs:
UVW: 7,225
GVWR: 9,495
Hitch: 1,325
Length: 29' 9"
Width: 96.25"
Pin box type: Turning Point 10k

Here's how my thinking evolved. First, I really wanted to go lightweight on the hitch if possible. I loved the idea of the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. I read and read about it, explored multiple forums and FB. Easy to remove, and it could give me another 9" of turning clearance. Except for a couple instances of failure, before they beefed up the hitch by 30%, I couldn't find anything not to love. I even had found a guy selling a used one that had only been used a couple of times for a good price. I was ready to pull the trigger.... then I called GD to ask about potential issues one user had with the pin box failing after using the AUH. They directed me to Lippert who stated in no uncertain terms that any additions/modifications to the king pin VOIDS the warranty on my Turning Point pin box and GD chassis. I asked specifically, the AUH kingpin adapter will void the warranty? The rep restated emphatically that yes, it would void the warranty. Hmmm, started researching other hitch options and called back the next day for another set of questions (see below), but before I started on those I asked the second rep the same questions about the AUH, again, the rep stressed it would VOID the warranty. Ok, ok, I got the message, not a risk I was willing to take - NO AUH. (bummer)

My next brilliant idea was how about the Reese Goosebox, sounds pretty awesome for the ride and it leaves the bed clean. I have a bed camera already, hitching should be pretty easy. I called Lippert back, asked my AUH questions a second time, got the same answers, then I asked, can I remove the Turning Point pin box and put on the Reesse Goosebox - NO WAY, different patterns on Turning Point, no other pin box can be used on that chassis.... bummer again! Side note, all the reps I spoke to at Lippert were super polite and very patient with all my newbie questions.

Ok, how about a slider hitch. I could use a Pullrite Superglide I guess, BUT, it's huge, it's heavy, takes up way too much room and it's friggin expensive. I know, I know, I'm dropping lots of green on the RV, what's another $2,500+ for the superglide. I checked B&W for the manual slider, better price, I'm ok with the manual feature. I'd do like what someone recommended on here, I'll just slide it back when I pull into a campground and slide it forward just before we leave the campground property and be real careful in other tight locations like gas stations, etc, to watch in case i need to slide it back. Double checked with B&W on what wedge I'd need for my Turning Point pin box - oops, sorry can't use wedges on the B&W slider.... bummer!

Just as I'm about to consider pulling the trigger on the Pullrite Superglide a light bulb goes off in back of the ole' noggin (I think it was shining the whole time but it was probably in a haze from that last batch of martinis). I said to myself, "self, why do I even need a slider, why can't you just use the Turning Point in the turning mode with a standard B&W Companion hitch made for the pucks in that fancy RAM you've got??" The pin box is supposed to pull back the turning point 22" inches. Another call to Lippert, hey would that work, sure they said, no problem, just get the right wedge for your hitch and we confirmed the B&W is fine with the Turning Point with the correct wedge. In addition, they confirmed that the Turning Point pin box DOES NOT offset the weight of the fifth wheel behind the axle BECAUSE all the weight is still on the king pin connected to the hitch. The turning point moves back 22", not the weight. Somewhere in the dark recesses of my brain my freshman year physics was starting to spark to life and I felt I could concur with that conclusion - finally no bummer! A quick online chat with B&W tech reps and they confirmed a wedge was fine for the puck system for the RAM on the Companion hitch. I went back a read the install manuals for the gooseneck and slider versions of the B&W hitches, NEITHER permits the use of a wedge - in other words you're not supposed to use a Turning Point (or Reese Sidewinder or Reese Revolution) with ANY of the B&W hitches other than the puck system hitches (note I only checked the RAM puck style manual, verify if you have a GM or Ford).

The Lippert rep had already directed me to the manual to Turning Point and there is a handy guide to determine if you'll have enough room to turn 90 degrees. I went out to the truck, did the measurements, assumed I'd set the B&W hitch inline with the axle. Then I called GD to confirm exact width on the 260RD. I plugged the numbers into the sheet, did the long division, drank a martini, compared the numbers through more haze, and viola - guess what, with a simple B&W Companion puck hitch and the Turning Point pin box I should be able to get darn close to 90 degree turns if I ever actually needed to do one. Oh, and that handy Turning Point manual, it listed the exact wedge needed for my potential B&W Companion hitch.

Whew, I know long story. I hope it will help save some others with the Turning Point some time. So fire away, am I missing something? Why not consider other standard hitches you may ask. You're right B&W is not the only game in town. It's kind of like a Ford, Chevy, Dodge truck discussion I guess. I just have always really liked the looks of B&W hitches when I've seen them at shows, couldn't find any real negatives mentioned on the forums, as a matter of fact people tend to rave about them. In addition, I just like the fact that it's American made by a small company that seems to really care about what they do. I did briefly consider the Hensley air bag and the Airsafe hitches but my truck already has air suspension adjustments. I'm hoping that will be enough to offset any disadvantage with the B&W over those much more expensive air bag hitches

I'm hoping to purchase the hitch in the new few days, go ahead and let me know what I might be missing or where my logic is flawed. TIA!!

[xrated]

The only thing that kind of jumped out at me on your truck specs was a couple of the numbers. If the truck's GVWR is 12,300 lbs, and your payload number on the door sticker is 3781 lbs, then your truck weight isn't 7968, it is approx. 8519 lbs.

[Bearii]

The only thing that kind of jumped out at me on your truck specs was a couple of the numbers. If the truck's GVWR is 12,300 lbs, and your payload number on the door sticker is 3781 lbs, then your truck weight isn't 7968, it is approx. 8519 lbs.

Good catch, the payload door sticker of course is the only "actual" number. I pulled the curb weight from the RAM specs online. I think they 7968 number must come from a model that has fewer features than the Limited even though that number was from the Limited's specs. Thanks.

[backtrack2015]

I think you ended up in a good place. The fixed B&W is a great hitch and separates into two pieces for easy removal/install. The B&W was always my favorite part of the Ford/B&W/28BH combo. I simply can't imagine an easier hitch to use.

[phonemannn]

That is what I use, 25K capacity, bullet proof, a little heavy to remove but solid...

[manofslip]

Hello,

I have been using the Turning point for a year now. I have the custom wedge for my 5th wheel hitch. I use a Husky 16k hitch with the Ford adapter plate they have. Good luck.

[Bearii]

Hello,

I have been using the Turning point for a year now. I have the custom wedge for my 5th wheel hitch. I use a Husky 16k hitch with the Ford adapter plate they have. Good luck.

Hey Dan,
Thanks for the info. Is your truck a short bed, if so how long? Do you get pretty close to 90 degree turning if needed?

[manofslip]

Hey Dan,
Thanks for the info. Is your truck a short bed, if so how long? Do you get pretty close to 90 degree turning if needed?

I have an F250 with the 6.75 foot bed. No problems turning. It is not that often you get close to 90° turns. Using this makes you feel safer. When you do get close to 90° is when you are usually rushed or the need is urgent. Having this helps give you peace of mind.

[xrated]

Good catch, the payload door sticker of course is the only "actual" number. I pulled the curb weight from the RAM specs online. I think they 7968 number must come from a model that has fewer features than the Limited even though that number was from the Limited's specs. Thanks.

You always need to be careful using online numbers when it comes to how much a truck weighs, or curb weight. You also can ignore any talk of payload numbers in regard to what the actual payload of a particular truck might have. I'm sure your seen manufacturers state the the current model year truck that they are talking can have up to xxxx lbs of payload; then the caveat of "When properly equipped". Lot's of folks jump on the bandwagon and say......my truck has xxxx lbs of payload. Well it might if it's "properly equipped". Properly equipped is actually saying, in essence, pretty much "unequipped". Manufacturers are trying to impress with how much their trucks are capable of carrying...or payload if you will. They aren't lying to you, they are just putting the facts in the footnotes and the small print, which many people don't bother to read. Yes, that truck can carry xxxx lbs of payload.........IF........it is a regular cab, 2WD, 8' bed, gas motor, and a "work truck" package, in other words basically no equipment on it, or the exact opposite of the King Ranch, Platinum, and whatever other models are the loaded to the gills models. Payload numbers on vehicles are the result of GVWR minus what the truck weighs on the day if came off of the end of the assembly line. At any time after that day, payload THEN BECOMES.....available payload. You buy the truck, as it was built and it has let's say 3500 lbs of payload, as per the sticker on the driver side door post. After purchase, you install a brand new shiny toolbox for the bed and load it up with all the stuff you need to have when you want to use the truck, for whatever purpose. Let's say the toolbox and all the stuff in it weighs 250 lbs. Your available payload for pin weight, passengers, firewood, etc is now 3250 lbs. Add the 200 lbs 5ver hitch in the bed of your new truck, along with the toolbox and tools, now you are down to 3050 lbs of available payload. The bottom line is the gospel on payload is the number that is on the sticker on the door post...AND that number decreases with every single item placed in or on the truck for it to carry.

[The Bone]

Most of what Xrated said is true.
However this 10,000 GVRW is also misleading. You will find that a 3/4 ton and 1 ton truck will have the exact payload capacity and yellow sticker in the door. This is mostly for registration purposes. If your truck has a higher GVRW than 10,000 pounds you will have to get commercial plates and those are more expensive than regular plates. Here in Ca I still had to get commercial plates. Some states are different. You also need to look at the sticker further and determine that your axles will carry more weight than than 3,200 pounds. My truck has 7,000 pound rear axles and 6,000 pound front axles. Thats 13,000 pounds but my truck only weighs 7,200 which leaves around 5,800 pounds of total payload.
Now the lawyers here will go nuts here LOL and they are everywhere to hear people talk.
Get in a accident and you will lose your house car and first born. That last one may not be that bad LOL
There are a lot of leeway when it comes to the numbers. Lots of safe guards are built into them The only number that is rock solid IMOP is the combined vehicle weight rating. That is what the truck and trailer weigh together. Don't exceed that number. That is because of the brakes on the truck. I also don't think that a truck by itself will stop 14,000 pounds regardless of how many tires the truck has. There is a reason they put brakes on trailers. Without them the truck would never stop.
I went through all this when I got my truck. Putting 500 pounds over that stupid yellow sticker is ok. If it wasn't than everyone should be driving a Kenworth. They say you can never have to much truck. You will however have trouble going to the grocery store in it.
I hope I cleared up the fog for you OP.