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Thread: Momentum 25g battery disconnect
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07-29-2023, 11:53 AM #1
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Momentum 25g battery disconnect
I hope I found the right board for this question. I need help understanding the battery disconnect or just “dry camping” in general. I’ve read over the user manual and I guess I could call the service guys at the dealership we just bought the trailer from but I figured I’d ask you guys first.
We bought a GD momentum 25g a few weeks ago. To my understanding I should be able to run most things (power outlets, tv, stereo) while not connected to shore power. It’s in my front yard and since it’s our new shiny toy my kids are wanting to go out a few times a day to just hang out. I don’t like having it connected to power 24/7 because we’re not camping. Whenever I’m not plugged in I can’t get the stereo or the tv to turn on and I can’t even check my water/battery levels unless I’m connected to power or have the generator running. I’m seriously confused lol. I’m so so new to this. Either I misunderstood the guy at the walk thru or I’m doing something wrong and just can’t figure it out, or possibly there’s something funky with the wiring going on and the battery isn’t powering what it should. Appreciate any help!!!
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07-29-2023, 12:46 PM #2
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No, what you have is normal operations. The outlets, stereo, TV, etc. are all 120V AC, not 12V DC, unless you have an inverter which is doubtful. That's why you have to have the trailer plugged in or running off the generator, which provides 120V AC current. The lights, water heater, furnace, absorption fridge, if you have one, are all 12V DC powered.
Howard and Peggy
2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S
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07-29-2023, 12:57 PM #3
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You should get yourself familiar with the difference in the systems
Maybe start with google or YouTube asking what the different electrical systems are in an rv2021 Imagine 2400 BH
2018 GMC Sierra 4x4 Crew 1840lb payload
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07-29-2023, 01:32 PM #4
First, welcome to the forum and congrats on your new rig!
Definitely take the time and get familiar with the systems in your driveway first if possible.
Like Hoopy stated, there are two electrical systems, 12volt and 120 volt.
When plugged in everything will work (both 12 and 120 volt systems) with one important note. Air Conditioning is one of the largest electrical draws your rig has, so if you use a household 15 amp plug and outlet, use of some of those higher draw items is limited. You will trip the circuit. Just keep that in mind. When plugged in, the converter does three jobs, provides 12 volt, allows 120 volts to your distribution center and lastly it charges the battery.
When not plugged in, the battery provides 12 volt only. If you have an inverter, it will convert that 12 volt to 120 volt. Usually that is isolated to one or two circuits for say a fridge and tv for example unless you have a whole house system.
The battery disconnect literally disconnects the battery from the converter and the rest of the rv system.
Bill2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
2020 Reflection 315RLTS
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07-29-2023, 01:41 PM #5
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Actually, RVs have three electrical systems (if you count the automotive system for running lights). Here's how things work:
12VDC from batteries (or converter/charger when on shore power):
- all lighting
- control boards for water heater, ACs, absorption refrigerators (not 120VAC residential), control board and fan for furnace, leveling systems
- 12VDC power to the inverter (if you have one) when not on shore power
Solar charge controller
- wired directly to batteries and always on unless you turn it off
120VAC
- provides to all circuits when on shore power
- provides to some circuits by inverter when not on shore power (sub-panel switched by ATS, power provided by batteries when inverter on)
Items usually NOT on the inverter (if you have one):
- microwave
- ACs
- water heater in electric mode (must be on LP when not on shore power)
- absorption refrigerator in electric mode (must be on LP when not on shore power)
The ONLY things that the house 120VAC and 12VDC circuits have to do with each other are that 1) the converter/charger charges the batteries when on shore power, and 2) the batteries supply power to the inverter and thus provide 120VAC to those circuits on the inverter subpanel.
RobU.S. Army Retired
2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
Full time since 08/2015
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07-29-2023, 03:37 PM #6
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I actually do have an inverter! I just couldn’t figure out what the control panel was, for some reason I thought it was something to do with my solar system. I figured it out though
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07-29-2023, 03:39 PM #7
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I have been trying to familiarize myself best I can these last couple weeks searching YouTube and forums and couldn’t find anything that helped honestly. That’s why I came here. But I was able to figure it out. I just needed to turn on the inverter. I thought the inverter panel was something for my solar panels.
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07-29-2023, 03:50 PM #8
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If you have the manual, you need to thoroughly go through it a few times til you feel you have a good grasp of the systems. Like what the inverter runs, which I imagine would be the fridge. Then come back, if necessary, with specific questions. That makes addressing particular issues much easier.
Howard and Peggy
2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S
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07-29-2023, 03:52 PM #9
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07-29-2023, 03:57 PM #10
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I’m not looking to run the entire coach. More so just turn the tv or radio on. Which the inverter will power no problem. Not looking to run anything else. Very rarely will we actually dry camp but just having it parked out front going in and out once a day for the kids I don’t want to be running the power cord all the way out just to turn the tv on for an hour. We have a 50 amp service/full hook ups in our front yard so if we have guests we can plug it in and they can run anything no problem.
Speed Rating?
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