WFCO Fan

[Schiefswret]

I understand that the purpose of a fan is to cool something down, however, I’m trying to learn as much as I can because I’d rather have the knowledge and not need it at the moment than to need the knowledge right now and not have it. That said;
My converter fan comes on from time to time, what are some examples of why it’s receiving a signal that it needs to be cooled down, ie: what are some examples of which items, when running, may contribute to the converter heating up to the point where a signal is sent to call for the cooling fan to start? All advice very much appreciated.

[sande005]

I understand that the purpose of a fan is to cool something down, however, I’m trying to learn as much as I can because I’d rather have the knowledge and not need it at the moment than to need the knowledge right now and not have it. That said;
My converter fan comes on from time to time, what are some examples of why it’s receiving a signal that it needs to be cooled down, ie: what are some examples of which items, when running, may contribute to the converter heating up to the point where a signal is sent to call for the cooling fan to start? All advice very much appreciated.

From the WFCO web site:
"The fan is controlled by the load. The fan will start running at a low speed when you have approx. 3.0 to 6.0 DC Amp draw. It will increase in speed as you add more load until you have approx 14.0 to 15.0 Amps draw. At this point, the fan is at its maximum speed and will stay there even if you add more load, Should amperage drop below 3.0 to 6.0 DC amps, the fan will shut off."

I have not directly measured, but a post on another forum listed these items:

Per hour:

CO detector - .2 amps
Fridge - .3 when on gas
Water pump - 5.5 amps
Bathroom (or other) fan - 3 amps
Slideout - 12.6 amps
Furnace - 8.9 amps
Lights - .83 amps (LED's, but no idea how many)

Not listed:

Your dvd/radio also runs on 12v (not the TV).
Smoke detector (likely same as the CO detector)
Tongue Jack

Unknown about what appliances specifically. My fridge, for example, also has a fan in the outside vent, so that may bump up the amps a fair amount.
You can count on anything that moves itself or something else (air or water) will have a pretty high amp draw.

And, of course, charging the battery. It is always doing that. The amount depends on the state of charge of the battery, and if anything else needs power. They do note that if after about 44 hours there is no other load, it will drop to the most minimal setting to just barely maintain the battery (float charge). But even turning on a light, will kick it up a notch (absorption charge). No notes on how much either of those settings, in terms of amps, though. Not much for either, though. If the battery needs more, converter will first supply power to whatever else is on, and then direct as much as is left over to the battery, so that could be quite a lot.

There is a time element to the above, and it is unknown how long it will take to draw the "3 to 6 amps" before the fan kicks on. No idea if there is also a temp sensor that works in tandem. Probably not, as that would be a few cents more, and these are made as inexpensively as possible.

[Schiefswret]

great info, much appreciated!