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  1. #11
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoChris View Post
    The only load left on the battery side is the break away switch for the brakes.

    Chris
    Just curious, did you take the landing gear off the battery side as well? If so, is it an inconvenience or just not an issue?

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor
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    Deleted - Duplicate post. Not sure how that happened. Sorry.

    Chris
    Last edited by CoChris; 02-18-2020 at 10:14 AM.
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    Just curious, did you take the landing gear off the battery side as well? If so, is it an inconvenience or just not an issue?

    What trailer do you have (it saves questions if you add your truck and trailer info to your signature)? I am guessing you have electric landing gear. I have hydraulic landing gear, stabilizers and main slides on my Solitude. The pump, the controller and the electric selector valves (solenoids) are separate.

    Edit - I see from your first post you have a 2017 Solitude. Ignore my (incorrect) comments on electric landing gear. The rest still applies.


    The controller (which also drives the solenoids) was a direct (not switched) connection to the battery through a 10A in-line fuse from the factory. It is now on the switched side of the disconnect switch. A little extra security to keep someone from "playing" with the trailer in storage. No inconvenience to me and a good reminder to re-enable the battery .

    I left the hydraulic pump as a direct connection to the battery, as it was originally wired. I have increased the wire size (from #6 to #4 gauge) and changed the circuit breaker from the factory 50A (which gave me problems) to a heavy duty 80A circuit breaker (Grand Design would neither send me an upgraded breaker nor help me with after market breaker - disappointed in GD ). I have seen over 90A draw in operation (not locked rotor). Typical draw is 60~70A so a stout, direct connections is warranted (in my opinion).

    Chris
    Last edited by CoChris; 02-18-2020 at 10:18 AM.
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  4. #14
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    So I finally got around to identifying all the parasitic drains on the battery when it is turned off. Some, I expected. Some, I didn't. Here's what I found for those who are interested.
    Thanks Roger, but there are a few things that are generally believed to be part of the parasitic draw that are not on your list: the Jensen / Furrion radio DVD player and the propane and smoke alarms. “Generally believed” is like “common sense”... not always certain truth but I’m curious if you’ve ruled out these things as part of the parasitic draw... they usually remain “live” when the factory-configured battery “kill” switch is turned off.

    I have a wrinkle for you to consider too. The parasitic draw in our trailer has typically been in the area of 0.5 to 0.6 amps and we HAVE a Schwintek slide in the bedroom, so ours (if it’s part of the equation) is for some reason drawing less than yours is. More curious though is that the parasitic draw nearly quadrupled to as much as 2.1 amps when the temperature at home dropped (-16C / 3F).

    I asked in this forum and the other one for conjecture about what would make that difference and the best *guess* I got was that the propane alarm might need to keep itself warmed to a certain temperature in order to remain operational. It was just a guess. Do you have a theory after the investigation you’ve done?
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  5. #15
    Rolling Along
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    @CoChris

    I have hydraulic jacks and main slides too. The jacks/leveling controller is powered by the battery side and the slide switch is powered by the fuse panel. (Haven't identified which circuit). I definitely agree the pump should be direct to the battery for large current reasons.

    The breaker rating is on the side where I can't see it without taking things apart so I don't know what it is. I might assume it's 80 amps because I've not had any problems.

    When I dive into all this, I might replace them all with manual reset breakers. My OCD says if a breaker trips, I want to be there to reset it.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    I have hydraulic jacks and main slides too. The jacks/leveling controller is powered by the battery side and the slide switch is powered by the fuse panel. (Haven't identified which circuit). I definitely agree the pump should be direct to the battery for large current reasons.
    Exactly how mine was wired from the factory.

    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    The breaker rating is on the side where I can't see it without taking things apart so I don't know what it is. I might assume it's 80 amps because I've not had any problems.
    If your traielr is a 2017, I bet it is a 50A auto reset circuit beaker. If it works, I would not mess with it. If you start having intermittent problems ... replace it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    When I dive into all this, I might replace them all with manual reset breakers. My OCD says if a breaker trips, I want to be there to reset it.
    My feelings and what I did. Lippert says use a 90A circuit breaker, but I did not find that until after I put in the 80A. I have had not problems tripping the new breaker, even in cold weather (thicker hydraulic fluid).

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  7. #17
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    @boyscout

    I had read in another thread about the propane/CO detector being on the battery side, but I did confirm that it is powered by the fuse panel (don't know which circuit yet).

    The increase in current when it is cold is interesting. I don't know how the detectors work, but it wouldn't surprise me to learn there is a heater in them. It should be pretty easy to check if you want to be out there at -16C.... 🥶

    As far as the radio/CD player, the current draw may actually be coming from the antenna amplifier as mentioned above.

    I'll do some more investigating today and report back.

  8. #18
    Rolling Along cookinwitdiesel's Avatar
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    I see about 25w constant draw on my batteries (about 2 amps).

    This includes powering my Victron MPPT solar charger controllers (they are on when the sun is off - so drawing from battery), small computer that manages the solar (Victron Color Control GX), Furrion Observation cameras (rear and sides - 3x total), Propane detector, Jensen Stereo, I probably have the TV booster left on currently, DC Powered USB hub for the MPPTs and Color Control GX to communicate, GC 3.0 electric slide actuator controller as noted above, residential fridge inverter (has an always on power draw even when passing through AC voltage)

    I have rewired my whole DC side of the trailer so that the battery is now isolated with a disconnect on its (+) wire so everything is turned off when I disconnect. I do not bother though as the solar refills the batteries every day. This was more so I can isolate a battery if I need to service it for any reason. I need to better understand what all of the smaller wires are on the auto-reset breakers, but do have the large ones mapped out (my +12v coming in, res fridge inverter, main DC panel/converter)

    One curious question, did you identify where the charging wire from the 7-pin harness goes inside the trailer? I will need to wire that into a 12>24v step up charger for my 24v system.

    Some pictures attached of what my current setup looks like. I have built this in preparation for 24v lithium and some large inverters coming later this year.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    2019 GMC Sierra 3500HD Denali Diesel DRW (Crew Cab | 8 Ft bed | OEM Puck System | Curt Gooseneck Ball for OEM Puck | Timbrens on rear axle)
    2019 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3740BH-R Fifth Wheel (Onan 5500W LP Generator | MORryde CRE3000 and HD Shackles/Wet Bolts | 3x MORryde Cross Members | 8k Axles and Disc Brakes | Sailun S637 ST | Reese GooseBox 20k 2nd Gen | Splendide Stackable Washer and Dryer)
    Full Suite of Victron Energy Products (2x 5k 24v Quattro Inverter/Charger | 2x 25.6/200 LFP Smart LiFePO4 Batteries | 2880w of Solar Panels across 4x MPPTs | Cerbo GX)

  9. #19
    Site Sponsor andrewssteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinpo View Post
    Here is what many here have used:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOPE1G...TKQWV68X&psc=1

    HTH,
    Kevin
    I've changed mine around a bit since this pic, but this is the idea:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    -Steve
    Steve and Renee
    2018 Solitude 310GK, disc brakes, Morryde SRE4000/XFactor with heavy duty shackles
    2012 Ram 3500 SRW 6.7 Diesel, air bags
    18k B&W Companion, non-slider
    640 watts solar, 400 amp-hour Lion Safari UT 1300 battery bank
    Aims 1500 watt inverter/charger with ATS
    Somerset, WI

  10. #20
    Rolling Along
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    Update:

    Rechecked everything today and here is what I found.

    Schwinteck controller: 700mA

    Propane/CO detector cycles between 80 and 140 mA

    Front interior light circuit: 13mA (probably the USB chargers in the bed base)

    Radio (in standby mode): 70mA

    RF amplifier: 100mA

    Refer: 1.6A

    Furnace (off): 12mA (thermostats)

    To summarize
    Battery Switch off: 700mA
    Battery Switch on, refer on, and everything else off: 2.22A

    These loads are better than I expected, but assuming 50Ah available (100Ah lead acid) with battery switch off, the battery will be discharged in 71 hours.

    With battery on and minimal load inside (refer is a requirement), the battery will be discharged in 23 hours.

    Probably fits in with everyone's real world experience, but seeing the numbers helps me wrap my head around it.

    What I'm taking away from this is until I get the Schwinteck controller moved it must be plugged in if I'm going to leave it for more than two days. (Or disconnect at the post)

    And also, 100Ah is not nearly enough if you don't have the ability to charge whenever you want (generator, solar, plugged in)

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