All The Stuff On The Battery Side Of The Battery Switch

**skier8674** · 02-26-2020, 05:06 PM

Thanks for everyone who has contributed to this post. We had the same battery drain issue with our factory installed cutoff switch the first week we brought the rig (Reflection 31MB) Home last summer. I found similar parasitic draws and ultimately put a master cutoff switch right off the battery bank.

I sure hope GD reads these forums and try’s to make meaningful improvements to their product, because this one is just plain silly and frustrating for us owners who love the product!

One thing I need to double check is the E-brake. I tow with the battery disconnect engaged, which means my E-Brake may not have any power running to it unless it’s being fed by the 7 pin. Anyway, something I need to check before I get back on the road.

**CoChris** · 02-26-2020, 05:13 PM

Originally Posted by andrewssteve

I've got a true disconnect, which I use whenever the unit is is storage. Never had to "resync" the motors. Maybe I've got the motor upgrade?

I am glad they work for you and @rosieox. Have you checked the controller for an error code after you reconnect the power before moving slide? Mine is always flashing and error code (something to the effect of "motors out of sync"). Most of the time my slide will not move until I resync the motors. If it is in, I have to push and hold "in" a few seconds before it will go out. If I just push "out" after reconnecting the power, nothing happens until I resync. This is just my experience. Maybe different versions of the controller or software revision. Again, glad your is more "user friendly".

Chris

**Roll With The Changes** · 02-26-2020, 05:17 PM

Originally Posted by skier8674

One thing I need to double check is the E-brake. I tow with the battery disconnect engaged, which means my E-Brake may not have any power running to it unless it’s being fed by the 7 pin. Anyway, something I need to check before I get back on the road.

That is absolutely true. The breakaway switch should be hard wired directly to the battery... No switches... No fuses... Nothing... As long as the breakaway cable is intact, there is no drain on the battery. But when the breakaway is activated, you really don't care about anything other than activating the brakes.

**Johnrb** · 02-26-2020, 05:31 PM

For those who have the Lippert Ground Control leveling system, it is also powered directly off the battery and pulls about 55 milliamps when off. They told me at the dealership that if you disconnect it from power it may loose some settings and may need re-zeroing (to establish what is level). FYI.

**Roll With The Changes** · 02-26-2020, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by Johnrb

For those who have the Lippert Ground Control leveling system, it is also powered directly off the battery and pulls about 55 milliamps when off. They told me at the dealership that if you disconnect it from power it may loose some settings and may need re-zeroing (to establish what is level). FYI.

Ahah!!!!
That makes a lot of sense. I had to recalibrate mine once and didn't put it together that it was after my battery died a slow and painful death.

Thanks for bringing that up.

Now I have to figure out how to not kill my leveling system without killing my battery.

Too much smart stuff gives me a brain ache 🥵

**boyscout** · 02-26-2020, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by rosieox

When we put our 337 in storage, I disconnect everything from the negative terminal completely killing all 12 volt power to the trailer. We have never had to do anything other than push the "out" button. We always hold it for 2~3 seconds after in or out. Never had to reset it otherwise.

Originally Posted by andrewssteve

I've got a true disconnect, which I use whenever the unit is is storage. Never had to "resync" the motors. Maybe I've got the motor upgrade?

Ditto on our late-2017-built 2018 trailer.

**Roll With The Changes** · 02-26-2020, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes

Now I have to figure out how to not kill my leveling system without killing my battery.

Solution:
Checklist number 7 (after turning on battery switch)

Item 3: recalibrate leveling system (item 4 is resync slide motors)

I won't have any hair left if I pull it all out.....

**Roll With The Changes** · 02-26-2020, 06:03 PM

It's pretty bad when you quote yourself isnt it?

🤐🙊

**Thumper111** · 02-26-2020, 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by The Bone

I had to think of the reason and this was my thought. The ground wire never sparks when you remove it from the battery In case there are flammable fumes like from a battery you may not want to cut the power on the hot side of the battery. The + side always sparks. When you disconnect the battery it says always remove the ground wire first. If you remove the positive side it will spark because you are interrupting the circuit in the direction of the flow.

The reason for disconnecting the negative is more of a safety thing than anything else. When working on vehicles the whole frame and anything metal is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Disconnecting it first removes all chances of shorting out the positive with a wrench or screwdriver, etc. while trying to disconnect it.

**LegacyFB38** · 02-26-2020, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by Thumper111

The reason for disconnecting the negative is more of a safety thing than anything else. When working on vehicles the whole frame and anything metal is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Disconnecting it first removes all chances of shorting out the positive with a wrench or screwdriver, etc. while trying to disconnect it.

2X...what Thumper111 said.