All The Stuff On The Battery Side Of The Battery Switch

[Roll With The Changes]

A fair number of people have had that second thought, including me.

I have four (very heavy) 6V batteries configured as two 12V. I’ll probably replace them but there’s no practical alternative that I know about that will pack hundreds of amp-hours into a single battery so a two-battery switch made sense to me. It might make sense (future-proofing) for you. This is the one I and others here have installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I put in two batteries or banks, maybe this one would be more appropriate.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...2376172&sr=8-3

[The Bone]

I like what you have done so far to clean up the electrical. Only thing I would change is the disconnect. You should always put it in the (-) negative side. I know it may not matter but as a rule of thumb that's the recommended side of the battery.

[Roll With The Changes]

I like what you have done so far to clean up the electrical. Only thing I would change is the disconnect. You should always put it in the (-) negative side. I know it may not matter but as a rule of thumb that's the recommended side of the battery.

That's the first I've heard of that. What's the thinking behind it?

[Nrbsrsr]

Many say a battery should be switched on the negative side, others say positive. Personally I have no idea or opinion on which way is right or wrong but many seem to have a strong opinion on which side it should be. However, other than opinion, I've never seen an explanation on why the positive side or negative side would be preferred.

My bulldozer came with the switch on the positive side and if I fuse a circuit it's fused on the positive side so my practice has been to switch the positive side. Whether that's right or wrong I really have no idea.

[boyscout]

If I put in two batteries or banks, maybe this one would be more appropriate.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...2376172&sr=8-3

The switch that I linked does battery (or bank) #1 or battery (or bank) #2 , as the one you linked does, but the one I linked also does BOTH batteries (or banks) if desired.

As long as care is taken installing them - especially care to keep the cables the same length from both batteries or banks - then the extra flexibility of drawing from both batteries or banks is a nice-to-have.

[Roll With The Changes]

The switch that I linked does battery (or bank) #1 or battery (or bank) #2 , as the one you linked does, but the one I linked also does BOTH batteries (or banks) if desired.

As long as care is taken installing them - especially care to keep the cables the same length from both batteries or banks - then the extra flexibility of drawing from both batteries or banks is a nice-to-have.

Sorry if I'm duplicating here... I'm having Android problems.

I am concerned about selecting both batteries if the are at drastically different charge states. It is possible to get extremely high current between the batteries.

Selecting both would be ok if there was current protection on each battery, but if I was installing parallel batts or banks I would rather hard wire them to eliminate the possible unbalanced scenario.

[The Bone]

That's the first I've heard of that. What's the thinking behind it?

I had to think of the reason and this was my thought. The ground wire never sparks when you remove it from the battery In case there are flammable fumes like from a battery you may not want to cut the power on the hot side of the battery. The + side always sparks. When you disconnect the battery it says always remove the ground wire first. If you remove the positive side it will spark because you are interrupting the circuit in the direction of the flow.

[boyscout]

I am concerned about selecting both batteries if the are at drastically different charge states. It is possible to get extremely high current between the batteries.

Yes, good point. However another benefit of having a “both batteries / banks” position on a switch is that they can both be charged to the same level (conditions being equal) by charging them through the “both” position. They can then be used from that position and (again, conditions being equal) become depleted at pretty much the same rate instead of having one depleted and the other not; the unequal state you’re concerned about.

The switch you’re eying is more idiot-proof, the one that I’ve installed (despite some thinking that I may be an idiot) offers more potential benefits.

[rosieox]

One thing to be aware of if you kill power to the Schwintek controller is you need to resync the motors before using the slide after you reapply power. If the slide is in, just hold the switch "in" for a few (2~3 seconds) when you reapply power. If the slide is out, just hold the "out" position. I have rewired my "battery disconnect" switch so it is a true disconnect. The only load left on the battery side is the break away switch for the brakes. When I turn battery power back on, I have to resync the Schwintek slide or I sometimes get erratic and on slide movement. After resync, I have never had any problem with the side.

Chris

When we put our 337 in storage, I disconnect everything from the negative terminal completely killing all 12 volt power to the trailer. We have never had to do anything other than push the "out" button. We always hold it for 2~3 seconds after in or out. Never had to reset it otherwise.

[andrewssteve]

One thing to be aware of if you kill power to the Schwintek controller is you need to resync the motors before using the slide after you reapply power.
Chris

When we put our 337 in storage, I disconnect everything from the negative terminal completely killing all 12 volt power to the trailer. We have never had to do anything other than push the "out" button.

I've got a true disconnect, which I use whenever the unit is is storage. Never had to "resync" the motors. Maybe I've got the motor upgrade?