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02-19-2020, 09:01 AM #1
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Help tapping into 12v power from LED lights
Electrical is my greatest weakness and I need some help. I want to power my 12v router (Cradlepoint IBR1700) using the existing wiring to power the 12v LED lights on top of the kitchen cabinet in my 2020 momentum 351m. I believe I need to wire nut the wire for the router with the wire for the led lights. My problem is that there are 2 sets of wires going into the LED lights and I don't know which ones I need to use. I have no idea what all the wire colors mean or really what I am doing at all. The extent of my knowledge is that I need to touch some wires to some other wires and then I will get power. I have added some pictures below. Your help is greatly appreciated!
Here are the LED light wires I'm trying to tap into:
Here is the wire they provided for the router:
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02-19-2020, 12:01 PM #2
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did they give you a clue as to the designation for the 4 wires on that cable? 12V from the camper is always going to be 2 wires, I wonder if the other two are for a switch?
Also, most people avoid wire nuts in a camper, they can work their way off the wires, the crimp on type are better.2015 Ford F350 6.7L TurboDiesel, Crew Cab, short bed SRW, 4x4, Lariat
2021 Reflection 5th Wheel 337
Pullrite Superglide hitch, TST507 TPMS
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02-19-2020, 12:30 PM #3
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02-19-2020, 01:54 PM #4
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ahhh, that looks like what you suggest. I wonder what the digital input/output is for?
OK, as for your goal. If you look at the picture of the lighting, you can see that there is a black and a white wire going to the light... a dang short wires!
It looks like a number of things come to that point to connect. The black one from the light will probably be the negative, black to black, red to white on your wires.
Here is the things to think about. After you cut off the crimp ends, you will need to strip back the insulation to the specs of the crimp connector. This will add another wire to the crimp connector, which might need to be a bigger connector now. I would NOT use the push-in connectors for this as you has so many different diameter wires, only a crimp type. Do only one side at a time so you don't confuse any of those wires, keep them together and add yours to the bunch. Make sure you get all of the wires pushed to the bottom of the crimp connector. Crimp at the midway point of the metal inside the crimp connector. Tug on each of the wires (not too hard) to see if you got them all crimped.
Get a good wire stripper/crimper/cutter tool. This is what I use: https://www.acehardware.com/departme...utters/3250586
Consider owning a VOM meter. Loads of YouTube videos on how to use them. Not too expensive: https://www.acehardware.com/departme...esters/3260445
It would be useful if you had a Kill-a-watt meter to know what the power usage of that router is. I hope that it does not draw too much on this circuit. The wires in our campers are usually over-sized on the DC side (from what I have found). After plugging everything in and it is running for real... grab onto the wires and see if they are getting hot.2015 Ford F350 6.7L TurboDiesel, Crew Cab, short bed SRW, 4x4, Lariat
2021 Reflection 5th Wheel 337
Pullrite Superglide hitch, TST507 TPMS
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02-19-2020, 03:20 PM #5
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The LED light looks similar to a Facon 4.5 Inch LED RV Puck Light
The page says Black is +12V and White is -12V which is how most of the lights are in the trailers are.
The RV's supply wire at the light, White is -12V and the White/Blue is +12V- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
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02-21-2020, 10:09 PM #6
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I think you're missing the bigger picture.
That light looks like it's on a switch located elsewhere, not on the light itself. Switches on ceiling lights are annoying at best.
Anyway, that would mean that those wires are not constantly powered. If the power to that light is switched then it will always have to be on, for your router to have power. While this may be alright with you, it's far from recommended practice. I'd recommend finding a new source of power.Rick
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2015 Ford F350 CC SB Lariat Powerstroke
PullRite Superglide
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02-24-2020, 07:57 PM #7
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@LogicDog, welcome. Owning a trailer you’ll certainly start learning about electricity, as you are in this thread. No need to be intimidated by it.
Can I strongly suggest that you start your education with a tool called a multimeter? It’s pretty much an essential first tool for figuring out electrical issues in your trailer, and you’re nearly certain to have issues and projects that need figuring out.
Per your current project, a basic multimeter could tell you if there’s power in those lighting wires, and could tell you which wire was positive (for your router’s red wire) and which wire was negative (for your router’s black wire)... you could answer your own question in seconds.
At other times it could tell you whether a conductor wire in a circuit is broken or not, if a fuse is blown or not, how much voltage is available from your battery, and other essential information when working on a project or when something goes wrong.
There are TONS of choices, dozens of them at the link below. At the link below there’s a basic Fluke 101 multimeter for about $40 - Fluke is one of the top names in electronics tools. I’ve seen multimeters in hardware stores for under $20.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Multimeter&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
I kinda agree with @RickLight about using a switched circuit like that to power a router, but maybe you have a reason for wanting to do it that way. My preference for a router would be to put it close to your entertainment electronics... you might someday want to stream video content through your router. Your radio / DVD player is a 12V device with full-time un-switched power, and if your router doesn’t draw too much power and blow the fuse you could use that circuit.
Even simpler, you could purchase a 120V-12V transformer at an electronics store (a “wall wart”, one of those little boxes you plug into electrical outlets to power or charge various electrical devices.). You need one with 12V output and sufficient amperage output to power your router - read its specifications to learn how many amps (like, 4A or 1A) it requires. This would just plug into a standard power bar or outlet near your entertainment equipment. However it would run only when your trailer is connected to 120V power... maybe you bought a 12V router because you need it when you’re not connected to power?
Good luck with your project.Last edited by boyscout; 02-24-2020 at 08:02 PM.
Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch
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