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  1. #11
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    Norcold 2118 no power

    We have just bought a gd 2020 395m. Fridge worked for the first week fine, but I noticed it was stuck on 9. This past weekend it started blowing that 5 amp fuse. Model 2118. All three fans will spin by hand freely. The fridge will run on gas or electric for less than an hour and then blow the fuse. Anyone have any other ideas? Our dealer is almost 300 miles away

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor livinthelife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean and jen View Post
    We have just bought a gd 2020 395m. Fridge worked for the first week fine, but I noticed it was stuck on 9. This past weekend it started blowing that 5 amp fuse. Model 2118. All three fans will spin by hand freely. The fridge will run on gas or electric for less than an hour and then blow the fuse. Anyone have any other ideas? Our dealer is almost 300 miles away
    I'd suggest giving Grand Design a call and asking them. Often they will authorize you to find a service facility you prefer (or even a mobile tech).

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean and jen View Post
    We have just bought a gd 2020 395m. Fridge worked for the first week fine, but I noticed it was stuck on 9. This past weekend it started blowing that 5 amp fuse. Model 2118. All three fans will spin by hand freely. The fridge will run on gas or electric for less than an hour and then blow the fuse. Anyone have any other ideas? Our dealer is almost 300 miles away
    Just because the fans spin freely, doesn't mean that there isn't an issue with the fans....or the wiring that feeds the fans. Many times, when something like that is failing, the bearings inside the fan motor will allow it to spin until it get warmed up/hot, then they start expanding and seize up. When that happens, the current goes up and the fuse will blow. I would try disconnecting one of the fans and trying it again. If the fuse blows, unplug the fan that was running, replace the fuse and make sure the other one is running and see if it keeps running. Also, check very carefully, the wiring going to the fans to make sure that there is no issue with a bare wire that could cause the fan to blow. One of the fans being bad is a more likely scenario though.
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  4. #14
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    Great info, thanks. I will check when I return home. I suspect the fans on the dc side. Our doors also do not align perfectly. I did notice the fridge ran a defrost cycle prior to blowing the fuse. This is not an inexpensive machine, I wish these issues would have been checked prior to delivery

  5. #15
    Left The Driveway
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    I was OP on thread and have to agree with xrated as my fan would seize but was moving freely when we removed it. Once replaced haven’t been an issue since. Grand Design and Norcold were both excellent during our problem both offering to ship me parts as I had to struggle to get the mobile tech to resolve but they finally did. Coincidently ours is also a 2020 395M.

  6. #16
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    And I'll just throw this out there as something to consider. I know that these campers are "expensive" and we all want them to perform as they are suppose to from the factory.....but they don't always do that. I also have the Norcold 2118 in my Momentum 394 and had the famous "door flap" issue, which I resolved. I also had heard of many folks having trouble with the rear fans going bad and the 5 amp fuse blowing. The Thermistor that controls these fans is preset from the factory so that the fans come on when it sees 135 degrees on the cooling fins on the upper rear of the frig.....the heat exchanger section. Part of the problem, in my opinion, is where the thermistor is located. It is attached on pretty much the "edge" of the fins, and should be closer to the tubing that runs through that area. I started to relocated the thermistor (which BTW is the device that could be called the temperature sensor) so that it was closer to the piping that carries the refrigerant through the system, but I then decided on a different plan. I bought and installed a Titan twin fan setup that is mounted to the inside of the upper grill/vent in the space behind the frig. This is the area where the gas valve, the burner, the heat exchanger, the rear fans, and all of that is located. The twin fan setup is meant to move more air across the heat exchanger than the OEM fans do....AND just as importantly, come on at a much lower temperature in that compartment. The system I bought and installed has a controller that is mounted inside of the trailer and has an "auto" and a "manual" function. I set mine to the auto function and the heat sensor, which is part of the new fan system and is located in the "behind the frig area", will start the fans when it senses temperatures over 68 degrees. As it sees the temperature rise, it increases the fan speed until it gets to the max speed if needed. There are six speeds and in auto position, it takes care of that automatically without any human input. I suspect, although I have not verified yet, that these fans will actually keep the OEM fans from ever reaching that preset temperature of 135 degrees, thus they may never run. To me, the advantage is that the Titan fans are a much better quality fan..AND they start moving air across the heat exchanger long before the OEM fans do. To me, this makes more sense because it is a lot easier to eliminate the heat from the exchanger as it is happening, than to wait until the temperature gets so high that the frig sometimes simply cannot "catch up". This past week I tried out the new fan system on the frig and with about 20 hours of runtime on the frig (including overnight where the outside temperatures dropped into the upper 60s), I got up that morning and the temperature reading in my frig were 28 degrees in the fresh food part of it.....and 4 degrees in the freezer. Those numbers were achieved with absolutely nothing in the fridge....no food, no water, no nothing....just the fridge sitting empty. To me, that is pretty impressive because RV refrigerators are not known to cool down near as quickly as a residential frig. I will continue to monitor the effectiveness of the added cooling fans and the performance of the frig itself, as we will hopefully get the camper out and actually do some camping this summer.
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  7. #17
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    Titanfans

    This sounds like a great upgrade to the current system. In my 350m we did occasionally have trouble keeping food cold on a long trip. Did you have to run a secondary dc power source and fuse to accommodate the upgraded fan system?

  8. #18
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    We had the No Power to the front display, it was a bad fan that was shorting out and blowing the 5 amp fuse. Both fans were replaced, so far the fridge is working correctly.
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  9. #19
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean and jen View Post
    This sounds like a great upgrade to the current system. In my 350m we did occasionally have trouble keeping food cold on a long trip. Did you have to run a secondary dc power source and fuse to accommodate the upgraded fan system?
    I simply tapped into the existing 12VDC that comes into the back of the frig area. It is down by the bottom of that compartment. I did have to extend the 12V leads from the controller to be able to reach that far, but that was the only wiring that had to be lengthened
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  10. #20
    Left The Driveway Mister B's Avatar
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    Just saw this thread but already posted in another but anyway here is what happened to me on my 2118X and would like some input if any body has any Thanks. 4 days into a 3 week outing 1,000 miles from home my board or inline 5amp fuse started blowing, never had any problems before. Of course there was no warranty places around to take it in for several weeks to look at it. so I had to trouble shoot myself with a few people from the local RV places around giving helpful information for me on what to look for as well as the internet. I isolated the fan, tested the thermistor, checked the ohm's on the heating elements, bypassed the limit switch ', bypassed the door heater and was still blowing the 5 amp fuse. It looked like the mother board was bad. when I got back I took it to the RV center and they said it was the thermal cut off that was part of a recall for my model (2118X) Has anybody heard of this and why wasn't I notified of the recall? thanks beforehand for any info. ): seems my Signature is not updating but this is on a 2020FR Georgertown 34M
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