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  1. #1
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    Transcend XPlor 247BH - How much to offer, and actual dry weight

    Hello all!

    New here and thinking seriously of making an offer on a 2020 GD Transcend XPlor 247 BH in the next week or two. I would rather pay cash to give me the upper hand in negotiations, and this appears to be the best quality at that price range.

    This floor plan has a dry weight of 5,392 lbs. and a GVWR of 6,995 lbs. I will be towing with a Jeep Gladiator Sport S with the Max Tow package. Maximum payload is 1560 and towing capacity is 7650 lbs. However, I will not weigh anything close to the GVWR. The actual payload in my car will be about 600 lbs. which still leaves more than enough payload. I have been accumulating pots, pans, chairs, and even canned goods for the trailer once I get it. I think I have about 300 lbs. of gear squirreled away to go in the trailer, plus probably 200 lbs. of clothes, food and drink for weekend trips. I will be driving with empty tanks to and from my destinations (will always be at campgrounds), so I don't think I will be adding all that much weight to the trailer. Even with unexpected purchases I think I will be close to 6000 lbs. total, and that's 80% of my tow capacity which is what I am aiming for.

    So, here are my questions:

    1. If I walk in with a cash offer, how much would you pay for this unit? Or, if you have one how much did you pay?

    2. Does anyone have this floorplan and have you actually weighed it loaded up? Like I said, I won't be driving with fluids so I don't need to add that to the dry weight. I know that some manufacturers have certain "options" like refrigerators and microwaves that aren't included in the dry weight so it is a lot heavier when you drive it off the lot before you even get your own stuff loaded in. Looking for a reasonable expectation of what the trailer will weigh to ensure my truck can handle it. I will be having a trailer brake controller, sway bar and WDH added to the vehicle as well.

    Thanks for any help, and if you know anything about this model that I should be aware of, please let me know!
    Last edited by TinyTink; 02-21-2020 at 05:16 AM.

  2. #2
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    I am looking at a transcend elpor 221RB. This is how I am going to do my offer. First go to the GD website and build and price your unit. Take 35% off that price. Then add to that figure freight about a $1 a mile from GD facility to the dealers you are going to use. Then add what ever their doc fee is try to find this out before you email your offer. I hate the doc fee its a total rip off but I have never been able to get around it here in GA. Dont add anything else in or pay a prep fee or anything. Take care of the taxes,title etc... yourself if you can. Here in GA I take care of that myself at the DMV.

    Get your offer together and email every dealer you are willing to travel too. DOnt give out a phone number and only respond to those dealers that actually reply to you with a realistic offer. Any dealer that doesnt respond with a counter offer delete them and never talk with them again! They are trying to rip you off. You may not get the full 35% probably be some where between 28 and 33%. But stick to your numbers best you can and let them all know you have emailed multi dealers. WHen you get a couple good offers play them against one another to get close to that 35% number. DO this thru email ONLY!

    Dont expect any freebies or add ons with this style of negotiating. Know what you want and be ready to buy with cash. I have bought my last 4 cars this way. It works! My last car I bought from the time I walked in to I drove off the lot was 53 minutes. I never spoke to a salesman got the deal done in 3 emails.

    ALso be prepared to walk if you get to the dealer and they play games with the agreed price. Get in your truck and leave!! No matter how far you drove. DOnt pay anything until your PDI is done and corrected. And for gods sake dont buy any extended warranties at the dealer!

    Good luck.

    I looked at the price on Gd site. I would say you should not pay over $15k plus tax title etc... unless you are a long ways away from GD factory. I woudlnt pay over $15,800 period in any situation.

  3. #3
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Forget about dry weights. Use the GVWR for the trailer for estimates (and 10 - 12% of the GVWR for an estimated loaded hitch weight).

    Rob
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    2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
    Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
    (Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
    Full time since 08/2015

  4. #4
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    I actually just bought a Jeep Gladiator last week doing it that way, and I bought my last car (Honda Fit) the same way. You're right; it really does work. And if you go on True Car about a week before you are ready to buy a car, they will send you an offer code of $500 off. Wait a week and they will send you one for $1,000. They are actually good at any dealership, not just the ones on the website. After I got the price down, THEN I let them know about my incentives that I qualified for and presented the true car code. I got my 2020 Jeep Gladiator with an MSRP of about $45,000 down to $38,200. A 15% drop isn't bad for a car that's been in high demand in my area. I first tried calling around with fair offers and no one would go down more than $500. I'm a 35 year old woman, but sound like a 12 year old girl on the phone, so that doesn't help. One of the salesmen actually asked if I could legally drive. I first offered $39,700 to the same dealership I bought it from because that's a fair price and I wanted a quick deal. After they rejected it and refused to work with me, I then had to go back to my old way of making them bid against each other through email. I put a man's name on the email when negotiating. After we settled on price, I told the finance guy that the car was going to be in my "girlfriend's name" which was my real name. Then I told them I couldn't drive to pick it up so everything had to be handled before delivery. That avoids the whole bait and switch, pressuring for add-ons, trying to screw you on financing, etc. They showed up with the vehicle, I signed the docs and they were gone in 20 minutes.

    If I do buy new, it will be this model. I was actually planning on offering $15,000 for it, so glad to hear I am in the right ballpark. I will be negotiating via email if I get a new one since there are others in my area. However, I've since found out that the Transcend Xplor has a wooden frame and vinyl roof, whereas the Imagine XLS has a TPO roof and aluminum framing. Better longevity but also more expensive.

    I found a used 2019 Imagine XLS 21BHE for $20,000. It's 2 hours away and there's nothing similar in my area to bid against. I'd rather have something lightly used (1 or 2 years) so the new owners/dealership can get the kinks worked out before I buy. The bulk of depreciation has already set in at that point, too. Not sure if I should offer $15,000 or $14,000 for the used unit. I'm worried if I lowball them too much they won't take the deal. I do know the used one has been on the lot since last summer so they should be eager to get rid of it with everyone else coming in to look at the 2020's. I need to have the price set before we drive up there, and I'm going to put any excess funds in my savings account. That way when we get there and they want to add any crap on, I can show them my bank balance and say that's all I have - take it or leave it.

  5. #5
    Seasoned Camper Flip94ta's Avatar
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    Hi, former JKU owner here. I think you are making a mistake by believing Grand Designs published weights. Rob is speaking the truth. I would look more towards a 21BHE like you mentioned.

    The weights are published low inviting new folks like you to think they will be good. For example my 2500RL is the same exact size as 247BH. Our OEM weight slip was 400lbs higher than the published weight. Then the dealer adds the 40lbs of propane and 47lb battery. With that said the real starting weight is going be about 5900lbs. You’ll also need a 75lb WDH. Plus your 500lbs of cargo. So basically 6500lbs.

    I assume you have the gas engine?

    I towed a trailer with the 3.6L I would not attempt to tow a 247bh with that engine. You are taking a 4700lb vehicle, adding 600lbs and a 6500lb camper. The way tow ratings work you are actually at 7100lbs, over 90%. Maybe you subtract a 150lb driver from that, I can’t remember.

    Your tcw would be 10800lbs. I guess what I’m trying to say is you’ll be at 4000-6000 rpm at all times unless your are going down hill. It will be quite slow on the highway given the Jeep and trailers lack of aerodynamics. Will you be towing in flat areas? Are you ok with a 60mph top speed? I suggest that 21bhe, the imagine line is great and it will be less white knuckle to tow.

    Your are the first Gladiator owner to post on here, please keep us updated.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Flip94ta. I knew the dry weights would be off and I did figure the propane and battery into the dry weight, but forgot the WDH. I see how you got the 6500 figure, but not sure how you got up to 7100. The 600 lbs. I mentioned is for the passengers (including dogs, me, fiance, and two teenagers). So, that will fall under payload since they will be in the truck, not the trailer. Door jamb says payload is 1553 lbs. I figured maybe another 100 lbs. for a big ice chest and kids' backpacks. Tongue weight should be 6500 x 10% = 650 lbs. I still have another 300 lbs. in payload before I max it out, so that's good. The 7650 lbs. stated is the GTW (max weight of the trailer being towed) so that doesn’t include passengers in the truck. That puts me at 6500/7650 = 85% of towing capacity. I know 80-85% is the max I should be towing to be safe. The GCWR for the Jeep is 12,800 max and I will have 11,900. All numbers seem doable, but pretty darn close for comfort.

    I will be travelling exclusively on flat roads along the Gulf Coast - the land is probably some of the flattest in the country. It only gets hilly if I make it as far as Tallahassee. Honestly, I'm so afraid of heights that I hated driving my van through Tallahassee - wouldn't dream of taking any RV up there, no matter how small. I was planning on driving at 65 mph on highways with a speed limit of 70 mph to be safe and also for fuel economy. I will be driving either to an RV resort 45 minutes away (lots of stuff for the kids) or to Bay St. Louis (1.5 hours) when it's just me and my fiancé.

    I do have the 3.6 engine, but not sure if the Jeep you owned had the 3.73 differential? The Gladiator can only tow 4000 lbs. with that ratio. Mine has a max tow package that upgrades to the HD Dana 44 Wide front and rear axles with a 4.10 ratio, so it has a lot more torque. Also includes engine cooling and 240 amp alternator. That’s what brings the tow rating up from 4000 to 7650.

    I agree the 21BHE is ideal for a lot of reasons, weight and length being the most important. I’m pretty set on a Grand Design at this point. If they don’t accept my offer on the used one, the 247 is my backup. The Transcend Xplor line is the only one affordable enough to buy brand new since I’m paying cash for it. I just got the Jeep and really don’t want another note on top of that one. Unfortunately, the 247 is the lightest in the Transcend line that has enough beds for 4 people. I’m still keeping my eye out for a lightweight used Imagine XLS in my area, so maybe something will pop up.

    Thanks everyone for all the help! I've been all over the Jeep Gladiator forums and I see mostly small campers being towed. Some towing a dry weight of 4500 which definitely seems doable. One guy towing 5900 dry!

  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper Flip94ta's Avatar
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    Ah, I see you know your GCWR, most people don’t, I was off last night on your TCW by 1000lbs. I’m glad you see that number as well.

    4700lb Jeep plus 1550 is 6250, published GVW. Tow rating is 7650. Combined that’s 13900, see how that’s 1100lbs less than your GCWR? You can’t do max tow rating and max payload. Almost every tow vehicle is done this way. Most only allow something like 150lbs for a driver plus tow rating. The three row SUVs like Suburbans and Expeditions really get tripped up. Your Jeep seems to allow just a little bit more cushion than others.

    I still think it will be an uncomfortable experience, I towed 3500lbs with 3.73’s and just me in the vehicle. It was a lower profile utility trailer. 3000 rpms at 65mph. Wind and suspension were my limiting factors from traveling any faster than that.

    Did your sport come with mono tube or twin tube shocks? The suspension travel on Wranglers will make them more squirrelly to tow with. You will want monotubes.

    Your 10% is too low on the tongue. 12–13% is typical except on the RK models. Search transcend or imagine tongue weights in the search box. 800-1000lbs is pretty typical on the 29.x ft Imagines like 2500rl and 2600rb. I’d bet a dollar the 247bh will be the same.

    Either way if you pack it right you’ll be okay on the payload portion. I really worry about your 3.6 and the 11,900lbs. The transmission will hate you and is probably the weak link. I would follow any severe duty maintenance chart to make sure they cover you for any warranty issues. Check the engine oil and transmission fluid often and sniff test that transmission fluid. If it smells burnt replace it. You’ll also want to pump up those rear tires when you tow to what ever max number is on the sidewalk to stiffen them up and reduce the shiftiness.

  8. #8
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    Op keep a eye on your oil level on the jeep. I had a rubicon and traded. The thing was using a quart of oil every 1000 miles. Only way I caught it was i did my own oil changes. Chrysler wouldnt do a damn thing said it was considered in spec as long as it didnt use over a qt every 1000 miles. Talked with the parts guy at dealership said they made a killing off this because chics would not check/change their oil and they would blow the motors. WHich wasnt covered under warranty. Mine started around 10k and got worse I traded at 24k miles.

  9. #9
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firefly 3006 View Post
    Op keep a eye on your oil level on the jeep. I had a rubicon and traded. The thing was using a quart of oil every 1000 miles. Only way I caught it was i did my own oil changes. Chrysler wouldnt do a damn thing said it was considered in spec as long as it didnt use over a qt every 1000 miles. Talked with the parts guy at dealership said they made a killing off this because chics would not check/change their oil and they would blow the motors. WHich wasnt covered under warranty. Mine started around 10k and got worse I traded at 24k miles.
    I remember back in 1973 I knew someone that bought a new Pontiac, that also went through a quart of oil every 1000 miles. They were told then that that was normal.
    Marcy & Gary
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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the info on tongue weights. I'm trying to learn as much about towing as possible because there is so much misinformation out there about weights. Even went to the local tech school where I work to ask questions and the guy who runs the automotive department got into it with his assistant instructor over some of the terminology. The dept. head was correct, but made me wonder what the auto techs were learning from the other guy ... Still leaning towards the used 21BHE more and more each day.

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