Installed remote on camera and front cap lights

[Dnmatt]

As it has been discussed on here a lot, my rear camera is wired to always be on as long as the battery is connected. This has bugged me and I considered connecting is so it is wired to the marker lights as others have done but this would mean I would always have to have my truck lights on for the camera to work. My truck has daylight running lights and automatic headlights so I really didn't want to do this either.

As an aside, it has also bugged me that the switch for the front cap LED lights is in the pass through. I would use them more, especially when we go out in the evening, if they were more accessible.

So, to solve both problems I bought these little remote devices off Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yesterday I hooked them up to the camera and front LED lights and they work great. I was really surprised how well they work. I can turn on or off the camera from the driver's seat, I didn't expect them to work that far away.

I have 2 remotes and 2 receivers and was able to program such that "A" on each remote controls the cap lights and "B" on each remote controls the camera. I was curious how much the receivers drew off of the battery when the lights or camera weren't on and they only draw 5 mA.

[millsiteman]

Hello Dnmatt, would like to install a remote for my cap lights too but I'm confused about the wiring. The wall switch in the pass through has 2 black wires on a single female connector going to one tab on the switch and a single orange/white wire on a female connector going to the second tab on the switch. The remote you used would be perfect but I'm not sure how to wire it up. Any Help?

[Dnmatt]

Hello Dnmatt, would like to install a remote for my cap lights too but I'm confused about the wiring. The wall switch in the pass through has 2 black wires on a single female connector going to one tab on the switch and a single orange/white wire on a female connector going to the second tab on the switch. The remote you used would be perfect but I'm not sure how to wire it up. Any Help?

I'll try to answer to the best of my ability without the trailer here to look at (and it's been a while).

The current switch looks like this:



Replace that switch with the remote controlled one and wire like:




You could keep the current switch in series as well (I may have done this), it would let you disconnect so the cap lights won't come on accidentally with the remote.

Hope this helps. It has worked well for us.

[millsiteman]

Thanks Dnmatt, I think I understand now so I'm gonna give it a shot. Appreciate the help!

[Second Chance]

Thanks Dnmatt, I think I understand now so I'm gonna give it a shot. Appreciate the help!

Welcome to the forum, @millsiteman! Here are a couple of tips:

1) If you use "Reply With Quote" (to the right of "Reply") as I have here, folks will know to whom you are responding and that person will get a notification.

2) You can also tag folks using the "@" symbol and their user name (as I have done yours) - they'll also get a notification that way.

Rob

[Uncamplicated]

Where is the receiver mounted for the rear camera?

[Dnmatt]

Where is the receiver mounted for the rear camera?

I was able to squeeze it into the camera body. A tight fit but it works. At first I thought I had found a wire the went directly from the camera to the converter and I was just going to attach it to that wire inside. But it turns out somewhere in the ceiling that wire also feeds the thermostat power so had to abandon that idea.